rear suspension recommendation to go with +2" LT in front?

What is your spring setup up front?

 

I needed to source my own outer boot and possibly the C clip that holds the outer joint to the shaft. I bought two oem boot kits so I would have everything on hand and then sold off the excess. Each kit is about $50.

18”x500 lb coils

 

Getting close to ordering some hardware and had a few more questions:
1. you recommended +6" extended brake lines? seems like alot for 2" of lift, why so much longer?
2. Someone from accutune told me that Kings had a coated steel shaft and that fox used a stainless steel shaft. They were recommending the fox for NE for better corrosion resistance? Anyone know if the fox stainless is actually a grade that won't rust?
3. What is the fox equivilent of the King PR2012-SS?

Thanks again!

 

Because it has nothing to do with lift, it's how much the axle droops out.

"and is made from 17-4 H900 Stainless Steel" no idea how corrosion-resistant that is.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/fox-2-0-smoothie-shock-78-shaft-remote-reservoir-12-travel/

 

Thanks again.

 

Would you recommend +6" extended lines for the front as well?

 

No, absolutely not. Extended front lines are only necessary for long travel and those are generally included with whatever kit you buy. Even then they’re only a couple inches longer at most.

 

Get braided stainless (ss) lines up front, no need to extend but ditching the rubber factory segments with SS will give you a much better pedal response. Might as wll since you're gonna bleed it anyways, it takes almost as long to take the wheel on/off...super easy, quick and worth it.

 

Do you have any good pictures of where you ended up locating the lower spring mounts on the axle? We are trying to locate them with no weight on our frame. So the spring is essentially unloaded and level. Do you have a suggestion for how much shock travel we should allow from this position? Essentially, how should we split the extra travel top and bottom from the level unloaded axle position to account for the worst case position when one side of the axle is all the way down and the other all the way up? First time setting up leafs, Thanks!

 

You need to break down the leaf pack and put some wood or square tube in the place of the missing leaves and bolt the main spring to the housing. You only use the main spring so you can use a jack to lift the housing to where you want your bump height to be and the droop height will be the same as when the axle is unsupported.

 

It can sound intimidating but it's not too bad. You want to set it up based on bump travel. So let's say you measure 4" of up travel. You'll want to multiply that by 1.25 to get how much remaining shaft you should have, so in this scenario, 5" of remaining shaft. You take the collapsed length of your shock, add 5", and then make the eye to eye measurement of the upper and lower mount that number. Clear as mud, right?

You can break down the pack as mentioned, and that is the correct way to do it, but I set all of mine up with a tape measure and they come out great. But if you have the time, then break down the pack.

 

If you’re using factory upper shock mounts and bolt on non-adjustable bump stops you can probably be alright. Wasn’t sure if you were doing everything custom.

 

Thanks. We have option 1 ICON RXT and a BAMF shock relocation. Not sure what we are using for bumps yet, but were thinking the factory Toyota ones for now to save some money. Likely going with factory series fox 12" 980-02-045 for shocks. What is the significance of the 1.25 factor?

 

Because the amount of space between bump/leafs and how much the shock moves isn’t a 1:1 ratio. If you were to have 4” up travel and 4” shock shaft showing, you would bottom out your shocks. I learned that the hard way when I did my first relocation.

 

Got it, because the shocks are outboard an in the case of a tilted axle, the shock will travel more than the bump correct? Is the 1.25 specific to Tacoma widths or is that a leaf spring rule of thumb?

Also, will a leaf pack droop more than the unloaded position or is that pretty much the lowest position that the leaf will go?

 

Correct. And 1.25 is specific to what I’ve seen on the few tacoma relocates I’ve done, including the bamf one.

 

I'd get at least something like a duro bump with all the work you're going to do - removing the other leaves and bumping out the axle could help with shock placement if you're doing a relocation - it's not as big of a deal if you're going SOA, but not a big deal either if you wanted to. Measure out the thickness of the helper leaves and put a block of wood with a hole for the centering pin in there and bolt'r down.

 

By our math, it seems like we will need around a 1.5-2" extension on the factory bump stops to protect a 12" shock. Does that seem right?

We were thinking of something like this to keep the cost down, what do you think?:


Not welded in yet, so still can change...

 

You can just rotate the lower shock mount down and avoid having to add that spacer. There’s such limited up travel with SOA to begin with that I wouldn’t want to limit it any.

 

I’m just now putting the pieces together that you’re the 14 year old who is throwing a new frame underneath. Since that’s the case and you have plenty of them, I wound recommend breaking down your leaf pack to the main leaf so there’s no guesswork.