rear suspension recommendation to go with +2" LT in front?

OK, thanks, we were trying to keep the lower mount closer to the axle centerline, but no real harm in having it hang down right (provided the tube doesn't hit the axle I guess)? We will check the math again.

And how low will the shackles go? with nothing tight, they can get to this position, but once the bushing bolts are tight, will they be able to do this?

 

Here’s some pics of what we mean when we say to break down the leaf pack for cycling.

it’s fine if it’s lower than centerline. As far as the shackle, you can replace the bushings with polyurethane bushings so it’ll rotate down easier.


https://archivegarage.com/explore-archive/ols/products/tacoma-poly-bushings

And if you don’t want to deal with getting the old bushings out of the shackles, this is a pair of oem shackles without any bushings in them. Pair, so you only need to purchase quantity 1.


https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-shackle-kit-spring-0400565104

 

Thanks again. what do you think of FOX factory vs Fox performance series shocks?

 

It just comes down to budget. If I recall, the factory series is nicer so if you can swing it, that’s what I would get.

 

If you want race shocks for performance prices, ADS is the answer. They build nice stuff.

 

Shock performance is directly related to diameter and valving much sooner than it is performance vs race - see what your budget can afford.

Shocks should never be the limit to up travel in your situation. You’ll need to change the upper mount or shock length if it is.

 

we have the BAMF relocation kit so the upper mount will be determined by that. We can probably rotate the lower mounts down enough on the axle housing to not need to extend the bump stops, but then it seems like we will have to add limit straps (will need to measure the droop later today). looks like the archive yellow bumps with the shackle flip are taller than the factory bump stops, we are not doing these, but that might be where some of the difference is?

 

They are taller but the compress more then stock, so at full compression they’re actually shorter.

Limit straps are never a bad idea. Cheap insurance.

 

Fox factory and performance series are similar in pricing. Performance series have bushings and painted aluminum bodies and are a little less tunable/rebuildable according to accutune. What do you guys think about adjustable shocks in general? if we get them setup by accutune, is there any real need for adjusters? would rather save the money if possible but if there is a real benefit, then we may pay the extra..

 

so better to limit down travel than up travel?

 

In my opinion, yes. If you’re putting 12” shocks on there and set them without limiting your bump stops, you’ll still have plenty of droop.

 

Rad, thanks! About to do chev 63s and tuck the shackle up like yours to keep it a little lower/retain some uptravel.

 

Good idea. Shackle mount design isn't mine, that's JD Fabrication's. Part of their SUA kit.

 

The need for having DSC (adjusters for low and high speed compression)(speed is of the shock shaft not vehicle) is if you want to fine tune for different conditions. Conditions are typically the weight of cargo changes and terrain vehicle is used in. IE: loaded and un loaded on highway and loaded and un loaded slow trail/rock crawling or higher vehicle speed desert type running. The base tune should be based on what conditions is the norm or predominant condition. This of course is in connection with having the correct spring rate for the norm. Confirm with Accutune but DSC can be added later at least with the 2.5 but would need to be at least recharged and possibly re-tuned.

 

All Acutune can do is give you a base tune so if you can afford adjusters that's great, if not you'll need to tune them eventually anyway once you want to get your suspension fully dialed. Here's good info on shocks:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/the-coilover-bible-part-1-by-billavista-pirate4x4x-com.2702748/

 

great advise on breaking the pack down, we may do that, but may need to figure out a way to strap out bare frame down for cycling. but for now here is a picture of where the stop sits when the springs just start to take load:


and with the lower mounts rotated down to be about flush with the bottom of the u-bolt brackets:


this would put us at 28.5" shock length with the axle in this position. We are thinking of reducing the bump stop extensions to 1.5" so that when the axle moves straight up 8.5", the shock length would be 20". We are going with the fox performance series shock 985-24-054 which has a compressed length of 18.4". This leaves 1.6" of extra travel for a tilted axle. With the axle let all the way down (with the shackles fully rotated over), the shock would be just under the full extended length of 30.4" leaving no extra travel for a tilted axle so we may add limit straps. Does this make sense?

 

It’s best to have the shocks on the truck to be cycling everything and leave about 3/8 shaft clearance at either end with the shocks as vertical as possible as tuning is easier with a 1:1 motion ratio of shock to wheel travel. I assume you’re using some weld on shock towers like archive design? Will the wheel well be the limiting factor in how vertical the shocks can be?

 

we are using the BAMF relocation brackets