Rear Window Shattered, Replacing with slider

That’s good to know. I think I will get a set. I do quite a bit of camping, just got back from a two week trip and having to use a flashlight in the cab to see anything was a bit annoying. The red would be great for keeping night vision too. Can they be set to red when off? Ie if set to red, turn off and opening the door would keep red?

 

I made a mistake on the type of relay missing, they should be the reddish/Brownish ones, since they need to have 5 pins, not 4.

 

yes

 

Tie into MESO (or assembled by others) Map LED harness.
20 awg wire (x5) cable to Rear Sliding Window switch (R47), long enough to reach desired switch location.

 

Another option:
Purchase the rear door window switch of a 3rd Gen along with the switch panel. Trim and glue the panel to fit through the center panel forward of the shifter. Since your Taco has no Cellphone charger panel, it'll be an easy fit. Purchase the window switch and connector also. Wire it up and mate, place in modified switch holder.

 

Yet another option: Bid on a totaled one and scrap for your desired parts!

https://www.copart.com/lotSearchResults?free=true&query=2024 tacoma

 

The idea is to keep it inexpensive...

 

They also serve a couple of other functions: Pressure relief when the air-bags activate, and air flow-through exhaust when the heater/AC fan is running. As mentioned by a previous poster, they do also help make the doors easier to close.
I don't believe they could ever do enough to save the rear-window though. Tempered glass is a tightly wound spring. Spontaneous shattering is likely due to a defect or tiny edge defect. I have slammed many a door in anger that wouldn't close, (I'm working on it) especially after an ice storm and driving along it opened by itself, and I have never lost a window.

Escalate it to Toyota Corporate and open a case. Dealers hate that: They have to fill out a lot of extra forms and call you back.

 

Dual 3rd Gen switches add-

 

The service manager finally got back to me (said he didn’t get my message and missed my emails after being off a few days) and said just this. Escalate to Toyota but that his hands are tied.

I believe you’re right and it must be an edge defect. I’ve slammed a sore much much harder before, this wasn’t a slam it was just closing it when packing up the truck. The bottom edge of the glass is shattered below the adhesive strip. All other sides are intact so I think the cracks must have all propagated from somewhere along that edge, likely a corner. Not sure when something could have flown up and hit it since I had the truck and if it did I think it would have shattered then. However it occurred the new design seems to be lacking a bit. On the 3rd gen there is a trim price all around the window. On other vehicles I have observed (suv/sedan) there isn’t a trim piece but the glass is completely recessed. On the 4th gen there is a profusion of the sheet metal that semi protects the edge in the center but the corners have a few inches with 0 protection. Tempered glass is very strong when impacted perpendicular to the face but fragile when hit on the edge so this seems to be a pretty big oversight from Toyota design department. Now, I have no idea if that’s what caused this, may have been a factory defect in the glass or some strange coincidence. While I don’t think it will happen often, I’m guessing some others are going to break their rear windows when loading/unloading something in the bed and this edge gets hit. Having an exposed edge like that given tempered glass’s material properties just isn’t the smartest.

 

lol, that would be one way to do it. Would be great if copart had a u-pick function like a salvage yard

 

that seems like the easiest option with what’s available today. I’ve been thinking it over and trying to decide where I would put a switch. Using the map light harness and running wires from there is a great idea and would avoid splicing into the stock harness which I would like to avoid.

My list of required parts:
Overhead console 63650-AK050-C1
-$260, i can’t find a 2024 switch but if I use a 3rd gen one and relocate I’d probably be looking at $100 for a switch and 3D printed holder.

Rear window - $300

Window motor I believe this is PN 69807-0C100, on the dealership/parts websites it says these are tundra but the diagram shows the Tacoma assembly so I’m guessing it’s the same motor. Need to confirm - $212. Likely could use another motor and modify but would take some engineering

Relays 90987-04004 - $20-40 for two

 

If Toyota would replace the window with the sliding one as gesture for warranty it be awesome. But that's wishful thinking.

 

Update, I ordered all of the parts and just picked them up at the dealership. The solid glass back window is on back order and unavailable so that sort of made the decision as I would have been without a window this winter if I didn’t get a slider. They also must have a price mistake in the Toyota system as the heated sliding window was $89.42 while the solid window that I can’t get was around $200. I ended up just buying a whole new overhead console which was the most expensive item but I figured by the time I got a switch and tapped into the harness and made it look good I would be spending a chunk anyway and it wouldn’t be as seamless. Attached are the Toyota parts. The only other item I needed were the two relays but ordered them off eBay for $12 for two instead of buying new ones for $54 each from Toyota. Making grand total in parts after tax $608. Test fit the motor and it mounts right up to the 3 studs in the back panel and plugs into the existing harness connection. I’ll be getting the window installed tomorrow or this weekend hopefully and will post an update once I have the relays.

Edit: The relay Pn is 90084-98032 in case anyone stumbles in this post in the future and trying to do the same thing. 2 are required.

 

Oh yea I never expected that to happen. I tried to see if they would replace the solid glass but that didn’t seem to be going anywhere as they said they can’t prove its warrantable and the glass wasn’t available so even if I eventually got them to I’d be without a window for a few months at least.

 

at $89 did they price you just the sliding portion of the glass rather than the entire unit? Just hypothesizing where the crossed wire happened.

 

I unfortunately used to work for a large tier one glass company that supplied major auto manufacturers. Tempered glass can fail, on its own, if it's not properly tempered- if it doesn't have enough compressive stress on the outside perimeter of the glass. We unknowingly shipped some bad door glass, and it was blowing up after installation when the cars were sitting on the factory lot.

If it failed at the bottom, and there was no impact, that suggests that the bottom edge wasn't properly tempered. The edge stress can be optically measured to verify it's sufficient, but only before the glass blows up LOL.

Saying that, getting Toyota to admit there was an issue will be difficult. But it's a fact that tempered glass will explode on its own if it's not properly tempered.

 

I had this happen to me one time many years ago. Came out of the store from grocery shopping to a shattered passenger door glass. A witness still there one car away in the lot said she was loading her car and heard a noise and noticed my window was shattered. No one else around. She wrote a short note for me as a witness and my insurance company covered it.

 

So I got the new glass installed and everything fits up with the
Motor, the new console with a switch and relays but the window doesn't slide. I'm going to try to do a deeper dive into the wiring to verify everything but from what I could tell all the correct wires are there and it should be physically good to go. I'm wondering if there is a chance there is something in the computer software that needs to be updated? The items in the circuit are the motor itself, the switch, two relays and a 30a fuse wich are all there now.

 

Disconnect the mate to motor. Place DMM to terminals there. Press switch for open and verify voltage, do same for closing (you should get voltage and it should inverse to original reading.)