Reasonable total cost for speaker replacement + sub?

As the title suggests, I'm looking to replace my OEM speakers (non JBL) and add a sub. While I recognize I could spend $1-$10,000 on a sound system, what have you paid and has it been worth it? Bonus points for bragging about your setup!

P.S., I'm not looking to replace the head unit just yet.

 

I spent about $3500 with the factory hu. I am not a fan of just adding a sub and amp for it, unless all you care about is annoying your neighbors. I would look into amplifying the whole system so the sound is balanced (not all bass).

I’m running cdt unity 8.0’s, 6x9’s in front and 6.5 in back, along with a JL 10w1 and vx800/8i amp. Love it!

 

I did the kicker speaker replacement for the front doors and the dash. (Didn't change the rears since they dont get much juice from the factory head unit) then used a kicker 8" hideaway sub/amp. I spent around 400$

It's not a system that will rattle your neighbors windows. Just a nice balanced sound. Good clarity and nice added bass.

 

I’m by no means saying that’s too much; rather, that it makes you seem credible as someone who clearly cares about audio quality. That being said, any opinion on the full oem audio plus setup? Also, did you build your own sub encasement?

 

OEM Audio Plus seems like a reasonable solution for a lot of folks, especially if you don't have much experience with car audio and don't want to get into it. I'm sure it's a solid upgrade and a decent value, but I don't have any first hand experience with it.

I did build my own enclosure. It wasn't particularly easy, and I've done a couple dozen. Unless you've done some in the past or are a decent woodworker, I'd look up Mr Marv on Instagram and have him build you one.

 

Woodworking is my only skill (also a musician, so I know what I want to hear). What I’ll fumble with is figuring out proper pairing of speakers, amps, power handling, sensitivity, etc. Any starting points for figuring all that out? YouTube?

 

it’s a bit of a rabbit hole, but I’d start here: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/

 

If I were building an active 2-way in one of these trucks, I'd go with this setup

Seas Prestige U18RNX/P (H1571) 7" Curv Cone Woofer (madisoundspeakerstore.com)

ScanSpeak Illuminator D3004/6020-00 Tweeter Textile Dome (madisoundspeakerstore.com)

SD-4 Series 12" (600-watts)-DVC-4OHM - Down4Sound Shop

~$800 for one amazing set of drivers.

I'm using the 6" version of the SEAS with SI soft domes - active. It's pretty hard to beat for a 2-way at any price. Also have a sealed 10SD3, but have a ported SA in there right now (which is gross overkill).

 

i would recommend kicker tweeter upgrade first and go from there...unless your looking for some harder hitting bass then your gonna spend$$$$

 

I spent around $1k and changed everything but the Head Unit with a system that bumps. Granted, I have an AC so didn't need to deal with any rear speakers.

 

since your replacing doors speaker you may as well install some sound deadning and speaker baffles while you're in there

 

I found the baffles were useless but sound deadening hands down was one of the best adds. I did add the baffles them removed. Sounded better. And added foam to help direct it in front. Still need to amp the setup. Picked up some lower end Focals front and rear for less than 300. I plan to get a DSP and JL 4 or 5 channel mainly for space and use if this truck. Extra you can get the JL amp with built in DSP. I used to rock big SPL setups with JLs and plan to use them for sub bit tuned down. Likely W3 shallow mount.

 

are all baffles bad? I just installed a couple of NVX's, the rubber ones, lol

I'm taking the door apart yet again(3 times) to install sound deadning as to why I suggested to do it. Inwhich I should have added sound deadning the 1st time around when I changed speakers.

after doing the sound deadning, I'll know that's the best I can get out of them doors, lol, that's the base/foundation for the door speakers to build upon?

 

Baffles are usually necessary. Another way to look at a baffle is the thing that the speaker driver mounts to. Sounds like you bought the deals with the closed back though. Those can be helpful in very low power applications, but they're best used as a moisture shield. You can cut out the back and they'll be fine.

 

the NVX's has the open back. I've seen the other brand that has closed back, guess you could cut out the back portion on those before installing

 

www.crutchfield.com allows you to compare the sound of different speakers. They can also recommend different products based on your budget and specific wants and explain all the technical jargon.

Also...
https://www.crutchfield.com/lc_3/Car-Audio-Video-How-To-FAQ-and-Shopping-Guides.html