Rebuilt my 3rz!!! SHES A RUNNER

I understand everything gets expensive. So vroom vroom today?

 

no they work 4 10’s so it’s gonna wait till Monday. I’m gonna go get the coolant today but other than coolant and oil she’s ready.

 

my guess is youre going to need atleast 2 gallons, ide get 3...
Thats already pre-diluted....
Return #3 if you dont use it...

 

I got a 3 core aluminum radiator so it’s bigger. I bet it’ll take close to 3.

 

At the end of the day if you have to ad some water to top her off, it isnt the end of the world....
This whole distilled water only BS, well, its BS....
But guess it wouldnt hurt...

 

What kind of radiator is that.....

mine's a 3 core champion....users are warned not to use

I have to use either Peak10 or the prestone.......so as not to interfere with the metal gaskets and fipg


need to use what ever that mfg recommends to be safe



On the Denso it took about a gal and 1/3 for total system

with the champ.....its now right at 2 gals

 

I’ll message them and ask what they recommend.

 

this is the one I got

 

You can safely use peak10 in any gas engine in the world.....

prestone followed the same...........wrong additives will damage the seals/gaskets

especially the multi layer metal ones......wrong additives and you get galvanic effect


and any old coolant over 4 yrs slowly turns acidic........
and you dont want that in a 200F environment


Ive never been a fan of the pink stuff
.......but everyone else here is.....guess thats all that matters


https://youtu.be/Fa5CYRtga9Y


this came out of a brandnew denso radiator after 6mo of use
reman block and a brandnew head

pretty sure it was the Zerex brand

 

I got super tech Toyota/ Lexus/ Scion red coolant from Walmart.

 

so basically I should change the coolant after like 6 months? This is what the people said where I got the radiator

 

It looks like to me they are telling you to use what your owners manual recommends which I see no issues with the Walmart Super Tech it states aluminum compatibility so you will be good.

 

If you are really worried about it you can drain some out after 5K miles or so and see what it looks like.

 

The way I understand it is the red(hoat) reacts differently with different alloys....

so while it only coats/ weakly binds with the aluminum, it can react with the brazing/welding that hold the aluminum box together..

So using any radiator besides the stupid plastic one (denso) you're taking a risk....

but keep in mine all that crap in the video happened in an oem radiator...
I just lucked out and found all that when I drained it and switched over to the champion.
I think all that crap was interaction between the new red(hoat) reacting with the new aluminum head......no body ever witness this.....except for the dealer mechanics.....and they cant say a word, or could lose their job.......

And I dont even think they tell you this at champion......you have to get that info out of their blog....thats where that picture came from.



Again the 100+ yrs green stuff works 100% with everything.....as long as it has no additives...
.....which as far as I know, is the Peak10 and the newest max whatever...
and the latest prestone, which is just like the peak....

most all the other greens have anti corrosion additives which ironically can damage the multi layer metal gaskets..
so you dont want to use just anything.


If you want to research.......its all in hundreds of videos testing this, and whats been added in each coolant...


You'll find toyota owners that would never jump ship from the red....
and then other multi decade owners that laugh at these ignorant newer owners

Way too many head gasket failure on 2rz/3rz....suspect coolant is culprit in half, and over heating on rest...

IF denso radiator is used... at least the replacements fail after 5 or 6 yrs... necessitating fresh coolant.... they get that to look forward to

 

And it doesnt make sense they tell you to change it after 6mo
....maybe they know something

I know if I used the red stuff on a new head or radiator....I'd check a sample of coolant after 6mos
and see if you get the same as with mine.....clumps, bottom floaters...
again this was with the zerex brand....maybe the other red Hoat's are better...

It took about 7 hot flushes to get all the red out.....and that in essentially a new engine...6 months old...
So there is definitely something going on there....


And I never use the drain valve.....I just pop off the bottom hose...
....that in itself can be another possible point of failure.

 

okay you seem pretty knowledgeable with aluminum radiators and coolant. So should I get rid of that radiator or use a different coolant?

 

So if you get rid of the radiator......are you gonna go with the cheap plastic crap one.....
.....I wouldnt do that....but to each own

I guess if toyota sold oem batteries...at 3 times the cost...I guess you guys would buying those too...

considering the head gasket failing problem is so prevalent with these.....I would consider carefully

 

okay so I’ll keep the radiator. What coolant should I use? The super tech from Walmart?

 

Agin, I may not be the best person to talk too....
I dont like the red stuff........I'm pretty bias
seen too many warning signs.....I've seen too much....

I like old school solutions


just have to make sure what ever you use doesn't mess with the metal gaskets and the fipg used in different places...........but not sure if any of that touches water
....that would be the biggest hickey you'd ever receive

IF you radiator mfg recommends whatever that engine mfg....then hopefully they've tested it with the red hoat.....

but but what if they changed the brazing material lately to save or source another supplier........then who's left holding the bag...


its like the new denso radiators made in mexico, they are not the same quality as the old ones...
used to get 15 to 20yrs out of the originals......but even thats stupid
....because there's gonna be so much corrosion built up they're like 2/3 to half effective in a 20yr old radiator.
....combine that old radiator with old acidic coolant and a stuck egr valve......thats reason so many are for sale....not running......needs head gasket,,,or more


Like I said others smarter than me have analized the different coolants...
and only found the peak10 product and the latest 'all vehicles' prestone to be the only formulas safe for the asian vehicles, other than HOAT....since I cant use red in a champion...
these are my only choice.....

100% these two can be used in any non diesel engine
...any others is taking a risk



IF you chose the red.......then let us know on down the line on those coolant threads you've posted to.......good or bad...or meh....
....if I have any problems with the Peak.....I will so do the same

 

Coolant is so important to these little guys.....I change mine every 36 mo....

it helps I can find the Peak on sale in the $10~$12 range for concentrate...
walmarts everyday price for the prestone concentrate is $12 all the time


at 48 mo the labs can detect acid building up in these, or any coolant being cooked on a daily basis
that starts creating/ accelerating a galvanic effect inside engine and all its parts

same thing happens you go scuba diving the ocean.....you have to clean the shit out of any metal....especially where two dissimilar metals meet....
same on a race bike when you ride in the rain......the different alloys love to seize together