Rebuilt rear drive shaft problems.

2011 v6, 6 spd., 4wd access cab.
Slight deceleration vibration between 20 and 30 mph. Center support bearing had lots of play. Marked everything on the drive shaft to index it. Replaced the center support bearing and u joints with Spicer.
Vibration is worse and especially at higher speeds!
There is a highly recommend drive shaft shop near me that says even though I "might have done everything right", it probably needs a rebalancing.

What do you guys and girls think.
(Getting aggravated0, been putting alot of money into my Taco, love it and don't want new car payments but still.

 

What process did you use to press the Center support bearing on?
What torque sequence did you use?

It's a 2 step process. If you only torqued it to the final setting. The bearing may be loose.

Other than that, It's likely a bad part. (If you put it back together the same way it came off.)

Unless you truck is lifted. In which case, one could argue that when replacing the center support. You change the pinion angle.
But your center support would need to have super bad, and you truck would need to be lifted. And even then, it's argument of "could".
As that scenario is unlikely.

 

I did add 1 inch lift blocks to the leaf springs to compansate for sag, but did not have this problem after installing them.

 

If memory serves you can bolt the center support bearing to the support upside down, that would throw off the angle, just a thought to check.

 

I used the flange nut to press it on.

I don't think the center support bearing is upside down, I paid careful attention to the orientation of the old one.

I could be wrong.

 

There should have been an arrow on the center support.
IIRC, the arrow points to the front of the truck.

Also, the final torque on the nut is not as much as you'd think.
I don't think that's the cause of your issue. But too tight can cause premature failure.

 

Had the same exact issue (90k). Replaced worn carrier bearing and all u-joints. Vibration got worse above 60+ mph. All these needed replacement, but also had a worn out slip jount on drive shaft. Replaced drive shaft (with OEM) and now tacoma runs smooth as silk. Figured out when all these parts start to go, they all go at once. Should be good for another 90k.

 

Do all the new U-joints move freely? Most instructional videos say to tap the yoke near the root with a hammer to let the U-joint "settle".

 

My 1st thought is your two peice shaft isnt timed properly. Search "phasing driveshafts". Even though you marked it before disassembly was the phasing previously off? My questions are was it vibrating pre repair? And what order were the shaft spacer and u iounts installed in? When did vibration start?

In 1st post you say "Vibration is worse and especially at higher speeds". This indicates vibration was present previous to repair.

Post 3 is confusing regaurding when the vibration started. When were the blocks added?
"I did add 1 inch lift blocks to the leaf springs to compansate for sag, but did not have this problem after installing them".
Did not have this problem after installing them??? Huh? That would rule out angle being issue... depending on if this was done pre u joint repair, and then post u joint repair the vibration started.

Depending on this confusing time line order, many different outcomes are possible.

BTW where there any needle bearing "mishaps" on assembly? Could you have dropped any u joint roller bearings? It happens.

 

Sorry about any confusion.
Before I ever touched t drive shaft I installed I installed 1" lift blocks in the rear to compensate sag. The 30 to 20 mph deceleration vibration did become more pronounced.
Again I might have made some mistakes.
There is a very reputable drive shaft shop in Wakefield. Massachusetts called Montrose drive line.. I spoke to them and told them exactly what I did.They said drop it off so that's what I'll do.

 

Good time to dig in and understand the 2 piece drive shaft timing and proper angles.

 

Im going to guess it needs to be balanced. Should be a $40 fix

 

$150 if that is all it needs.

 

Well dropped of the drive shaft to this well regarded driveshaft shop and the owner said he never heard of this? Not dissing anyones suggestions but will post the results. They work on shafts for all kinds of vehicles.

 

It's right out of the FSM.

Leaving too much torque on the nut and you can cause the bearing to fail prematurely.
As that will "squeeze" the bearing too tight cause potential issues.
The reason you over torque it to start with, is to seat the bearing.

The same goes for the front wheel bearings. Too tight and they will fail prematurely.
Blasting the axle nut on with an impact is not ideal. It works, but it's not correct.

 

The FSM for 2nd generations used to be available online but I can't find it anymore?

If I ever have to do front wheel bearings I'll keep this in mind.

 

The arrow is def there and has been for at least 18 years on Tacomas, He might work on all kinds of vehicles but it's obvious not many of them are toyotas w/ 2 piece drive shafts.

 

Following along for the outcome. Given its a New England truck (probably some rust) its possible a weight was knocked off in the process. Should be easy for them to diagnose.

 

Just got a call from the shop. They said the drive shaft is ready.
He said a couple of bearing cups were not seated properly and they added a little bit of weight to it.
I don't think I can pick it up today. Though stay tuned.

 

They can be tricky