Recommended performance brakes?

Steering wheel is shaking under braking at high and low speeds. Iam wanting to do a performance brake job on the back and front end. What type of calipers, rotors, pads, and rear shoes will I need?
I'am also afraid that I might have to do the bearings as well. Also I replaced them once and I'm pretty sure the mechanic put in shitty ones.
What brand of premium bearings aswell would TW recommend on this killer truck!

 

I put EBC slotted rotors with the EBC heavy duty pads for light truck and SUV. Big improvement over stock. Here on TacomaWorld Bamatoy sells a high quality complete hub assembly with bearings for a great price.

 

Where in Canada are you from? If possible have all of that stuff shipped to the border storage nearest you. It's way cheaper than trying to buy up here in my experience.

Like the other poster said EBC makes awesome brakes. I use the Yellow Stuff pads myself because my truck is heavy from offroad accessories and necessities but even the green stuff pads are a huge improvement. Some people might disagree but I recommend going with the slotted rotors only if you like the look. Unless you're towing in all likelihood the stock versions are fine and EBC makes a great version of those that will likely last longer than the slotted ones.

Bamatoy bearings are the bestest. I'm just about to put in an order there myself.

 

Look into the 4Runner larger brake kit using all OEM parts.

I won't go into the "warped rotor" myth. Keep throwing money at the problem.

 

I always thought Toyota front oem pads where all one needs. I put 86k on my front pads and still had some to go, and then I sold it. This was on my 98 Tacoma.

 

I'm In waterloo Ontario. So Toronto and Detroit boarders are both not to far from me.
I'm getting the truck in this week to go over the parts I need. Everyone keeps saying it's "warped" rotors. But we're starting with the calipers first?Then rotors to pads to bearings?

And with the bearings, I have the 2010 and I believe that the bearings arnt a hub assembly rather you need a 3ton press to get them out of the hub housing?
Do I purchase the complete assembly or just the bearing and keep the original housing?

 

@BamaToy1997 has the bearings, and you can just bolt them up in your driveway.

With proper brake bedding and braking technique, you'll never experience "warped" rotors. What you're feeling is deposits on the rotor. If it's not too bad, you can heat up the brakes with several high speed stops and burn that stuff off the rotor. Then with some slower stops, smooth out the surface.

Holding the brakes down after high speed stops is what leaves the deposits on the rotor.

 

Here. Boom. Done.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...group-buy-2005-2017-tacoma-and-others.456164/

 

2nd gen brakes are a bit weaker for the weight. Especially if you run LT rated tires. I've noticed a good chunk of difference just switching to better pads.

 

Why do they want you to install new calipers? It sounds like you're getting milked man. I'd try new rotors and do the pads while you're at it since it's easy. I might find out a second opinion from a trusted independent shop too on the new bearings.

 

Centric (Stop Tech) Slotted Sport Rotors and LTS Brake Pads. Love it. Compensates for more rotational mass of 35s and 8-10 ply tires well.

 

It's a long story about being screwed for new bearings. I actually changed them 2x in 2years. Why.. cause the guy I was seeing failed to diagnose a faulty caliper that was sticky and wore out the bearing on the passanger side. After we replaced rotors, pads & bearings. And did the same thing 10months later. And replaced everything a second time. So that's why I think I should start at the calipers again first to make sure those are good before I move on to rotors etc. But I want a premium kit this time so I don't have to do this all over again in a couple yrs.

 

Also I do have the 265/70r17 KO 2's for tire on the truck.

 

Okay I get you. So the caliper was jamming on the rotor which heated the mess out of it and that heat messed up a wheel bearing.

Yes, in that case start with the wheel bearings from Bama.

I wouldn't keep those rotors or pads either. Once they get above critical temps the materials never perform the same. Check out rock auto for calipers and buy the pads/rotors from where ever you want. As you can tell there are plenty of opinions on who makes the best setup. You could go with the stoptech complete big brake kit, which comes with calipers, but even at 20% off you're talking about big money. If you had 35's on or tow a lot it could be worth it. Otherwise nice pads and rotors plus new calipers is the way to go.

Oh and see if the shop will cover some of this. That kind of fuck up needs a slap.

 

Those aren't that heavy but a better pad would help for sure.

 

Ebc like others have stated, I'm running the stage 4 kit on mine with great results. I couldn't keep the omen rotors from shuttering, first set went 30k replaced with oem and didn't get but 10k out of those. Switched to Ebc and no issues since.

 

You should change the brake fluid on your truck too. If the caliper was stuck clamping the pads on the rotor then that heat definitely would of toasted off your brake fluid as well.

 

Are you currently seeing grossly uneven wear in the pads between inboard and outboard or between driver's and passenger's sides? If not, you don't have a seized caliper this time. Calipers perform well if you service them (basically put antiseize on the pad retention pins) every two years per the maintenance booklet.

 

Yeah it's been one big mess for acouple yrs! Thanks for the excellent opinion, definitely throwing away rotors & pads after caliper change if needed.

 

I noticed some deep grooves on the drivers side rotor. The passanger side looks new. I can still see the factory lines on it.
I just serviced the brakes 2months ago cause the passanger side was missing a bobbie type pin on the top, bottom was fine.