Recommended performance brakes?

I changed the fluid 3times this past year lol.

 

I bought remanufactured calipers for my truck because the seals were all gone in my originals and I didn't want to mess with replacing seals. They were very clearly OEM calipers that were just rebuilt (same markings in the same places).

Difference was my original calipers never rusted. These did. Whatever coating Toyota puts on them is better than whatever the reman company put on them. Had I known that, I would have painted them before putting them on. Just something to keep in mind.

 

Exactly what happened with my calipers I have on right now. Their all rusted to shit. And the people putting this on doesn't tell you to paint them or anything. Plus ya it also looks like shit. Thanks for heads up

 

If I needed front brakes I'd do the 4Runner Sport brak

This. I can't wait for my brakes to wear out so I can do this. Or I'll just swap with the wife's 04 4Runner Sport

 

Every set of reman'ed calipers I have ever purchased started to rust. They are cleaned in an acid bath, or something. Removing the protective coating perhaps? I should look it up, if I didn't feel lazy.

Anyway. I have a pair of rear reman'ed 4Runner calipers, which will soon be replacing my rear drums. Currently painting them with POR15 caliper paint, to protect them. Rated to 500ºF continuous.

 

thanx for this, I think that's what happened to mine I replaced the pads at 60k with OEM pads and had some grabby feel at first but I think I had some glaze from the old pads I didn't turn the rotors just replaced but ive noticed the new pad are bedding better and burning the glaze off maybe

 

I've never had rotors turned - not claiming it's the best idea. I just run OEM or similar pads on the old rotors until the rotors need replacing.

 

See I bought brand new calipers last year, and their pretty heavily rusted within that period. But I'll shine em up and put a good rust spray on aswell.
Replacing ur rear drums eh..
What do you think of the Dana 44 axle swap? When I can upgrade I think this would be a good start? I also want rear calipers instead of drums

 

Why bother? The Toyota 8.4 is generally considered to be equal to a Dana 44 (some parts are stronger, some are weaker), so you'd be making a lateral move.

 

Brake bleeding upgrade.

 

Those things are tits. Have speedbleeders on my 600RR but haven't yet installed them on either of my Tacomas. Stupid me.

 

Do slotted/drilled rotors have any downsides? Thinking about when offroading rocks and roots might get stuck in there but I'm not sure. I bought some EBC slotted rotors and the green EBC pads but haven't installed them yet.

 

After using one for the clutch line, I am completely a believer in their value. Much easier to bleed without cavitating the system and causing tiny bubbles. Slow pedal modulation makes it precise and very timely.

 

If you're getting rocks/roots jammed into your rotor regardless of type of rotor, I would say you're probably doing it wrong or playing in mud holes. I am in the high desert and don't jam my wheels into roots or bury it in rock beds. It would be a consideration to check on after heavy wheeling, but it has never happened to me. I don't do drilled (potential for cracking). I have slotted STOP TECH rotors and Hawk LTS pads. It is great compensation with the increased rotational mass of D ply, 35s. I detest mud, it seems to work its way into all the wrong places and screw up electronics. I avoid it all costs.

 

how much were these, where did u get them

 

^^^^^ this..x2

 

Is there a right up on this?

 

Slotted and drilled are just pretty stuff for street/off road vehicles.

I'd never put drilled on anything that is regularly used. Seen too many rotors crack in my racing days.

Slotted can be helpful on the street by dispersing some water when very wet, allowing the friction to return sooner.

Stock rotors and pads are fine for most folks. Upgraded pads can make a nice improvement if you have some repeated towing or mountain driving conditions.

Having all the moving parts properly cleaned and lubricated and adjusted, along with fresh fluid, will keep the brakes in prime condition. That requires at least an annual inspection/servicing in places like Florida, more often if you offroad a lot or drive in salt country.

Unless you know for a fact that you are over cooking the stock brakes, bigger brakes won't do much of anything. The biggest advantage of bigger brakes is heat dispensation.

And as @58 Siesta says, no warp. Tough to do with a slab of cast iron. Stoptech.com has some reading on the topic.

And as @Torspd suggests, speed bleeders are the cats meow for regular bleeding. Had 5 on my little race car (4 wheels & clutch slave) and it made my 6 month fluid changes easy peasy.

 

@Clearwater Bill I checked my order and I got the Slotted/dimpled (Not drilled) rotors -

$129 EBC GD7237 3GD Series Dimpled and Slotted Sport Rotor

EBC GD7237 and the Greenstuff pads. I do tow and am constantly in mountainous areas, also in salt country. Thanks again for the info.

 

Summit Racing. About $17 + shipping.