Redeemed: rngr's Trail Taco w/side of T4R

Very common and fucking easy to blow spiders. I was attempting a simple climb and blew my spiders my first wheeling trip on 35's. I first thought it was a CV, but nope, spiders. Thankfully I had @ToyRyd04 there with me (who also blew his spiders previously, sense a common trend?) let me know that there was risk of the front diff seizing up on my 2 hour drive home, even with the front diff disengaged. Then you need to go through the fun part of making a 2wd kit on the trail and cut one of your CV's so you can drive home without your diff locking up and locking your front driver tire up on you as you are doing 80 mph on the highway home.

If you are going to run 35's with no front locker, have an angle grinder handy, just saying.

 

Good answers. Obviously, changing a diff out on the trail is fucked. I helped change out an axle the previous trip on a 1st gen, on 33s open diff, as I watched him do absolutely nothing to snap it so i understand the strength of the axle. Having said that, a locker will magnify this x10.

Now you're telling me he's gonna break axles and diffs on 35s with no locker. So how does he remedy this problem?

Say his probable diff to axle break ratio is 1:1. He's got just as much chance to break a diff as an axle. He adds a locker and obtusely skews that ratio to (let's use my x10 example) 10:1. It's highly unlikely now that he ever breaks a diff but by decreasing this probability because of the locker, he increases the probability of breaking axles to the point of "he has to be careful wheeling".

So your points are valid but you're making it sound as though once he goes front locker and 35s, he better bring a stock pile of axles with him or not drive his truck. So is it better to drive around with that 1:1 ratio and a "maybe something will break" or better to drive around with that 10:1 ratio and a "shits fucking breakin"?

 

Respond to this ...

 

Adding an ARB doesn't mean your going to break axles all the time. Its selectable. Not like you engage it every time you hit dirt, you can barely steer with a front locker engaged.

Adding any front locker greatly increases your chances of popping off a CV. Which is why again, a selectable locker is ideal. You only use it when you absolutely need too.

This is the best case scenario, because you make the diff stronger then you put the risk back on the CV axle which again, is fairly easy to swap out and replace.

The only other thing you can do is custom CVs or Tundra CVs with a LT kit. But then..idk where the weakness is...yet. I'll let you know though when i break one or the other.

 

Haha let the people it matters to know. I am curious but I only started this convo because I was reading this thinking "Carter's lazy ass needs to ask better questions".. Haha good talk dude.

I see this in a perfect scenario every wheeling trip I take. @Robertocritser has an ARB in the front and uses it "wisely" as I like to call it. I spot him 99% of the time and help decide when it's a good idea to turn it on and when to not. In the past 6 years or so, he's never broken an axle before ..... with me there .... Haha but my point is, knowing your truck, your driving skills and the people around you can help A LOT in avoiding those kind of trail repairs.

 

Pretty sure the axle @BYJOSHCOOK blew was a cheap parts store version.

 

Well the amount of axles's I've broken thus far, is 0. *knocks on wood* And that's wheeling some of the hardest trails in Moab aside from Pritchett with a manual. I have to ask, was this axle aftermarket? Because the OEM axles are retarded strong to begin with. And considering my spiders blew before my axle that's saying something about OEM axles. Personally I think as long as you aren't retarded with the gas pedal, OEM axles will put up with a lot of abuse. I feel like there is more to this about it taking "absolutely nothing" to break this axle. It was either not OEM or he was slamming up a ridiculous muddy and rutted hill climb with the gas pedal pinned.

 

Well, maybe I fucked up. Never even crossed my mind about the strength aspect of the locker.

 

Again, like you said if it comes down to you needing to put one in because you blew your spiders, you can when it happens. But then you are paying even more I would imagine. Honestly I was just going to regear and not do a locker myself till I blew my spiders.

 

totally agree. knowing your truck and what its capable of and a sport that knows will keep you out of just about all trouble.

 

Yea, I just wish I would have known. Should have spent some time asking more questions. Live and learn.

 

He may have just answered your question. I just don't remember. But ask Josh yourself of he comes in here. I was spotting him, it was a 30' long hill at probably 40° and he crested the top with not much speed or wheel spin. The tires came off the ground slightly and on landing it snapped in half. Blew out all the bearings. Considering the devastating terrain at this park, it didn't look like shit. I was only spotting him because the line was hard to see. Maybe I just don't remember it right ..... that's very possible. Haha

 

you'll just end up paying more in the long run. No harm otherwise.

 

this is the fastest way to blow tacoma cv axles.

 

I mean it's how CV's typically break, sudden loss of traction, gain speed, and get traction for boomage. I'd be interested to see if it was OEM as well.

I wish I caught it myself, but hey maybe you will have good luck and not have to deal with it for another year?

 

We will see. Guess I need to read up on that 2wd kit. haha.

 

easiest thing is to just find a crap CV and remove the shaft and just carry the ends around.

 

I have no idea what the purpose of this is or why it’s needed.

 

lets say you nuked the diff.

You have 2 options to drive home or even move:

1) take out the diff, gut it, reassemble it.

2) Cut a CV in half.

The reason you can just pull the CVs and stuff rags in the diff is that the CV axles hold the wheel bearings in on the spindle.

So if you have an old CV that ate the bearings up or whatever, you can just diassemble it down to the two ends and carry those in the OSK. That way if you nuke the diff, you just pull the 2 cvs and insert the shaft-less CV ends. This will keep shit out of the diff, and it allows you to still bolt down the outer CV end which will hold in your wheel bearings.

 

Why not just put the front diff and CVs in the bed and call it a day? Drive in 2wd