Regear 2015 Tacoma Automatic Transmission

Right on. Yeah, TW is a great resource and my build would be nowhere with out it and the members who have fielded questions along the way. I do not in any which way want to talk you out of saving money on the front locker during regear, just if you were unaware of what I mentioned, add it your your research list, and consider it in your decision.

 

Thanks!

yah the BAMF skids are about 100lbs heavier than others since they are 1/4 plate steel and jerry over engineers them (one of the main reasons I got them) but now debating how I can shed some weight without losing functionality. Trucks built to be a multi-task setup.

With that setup, you should be okay. Consider 650 or better 700lb springs. If you are only running the 600's you will need at least 650 upfront. The rear shouldn't be too bad. The skids will add up though.

Def the Cat scale is super easy. there are 2 apps. One for locations/accounts and one for the actual scale. You drive up enter a number, wait for them to confirm then you get your weight. Grab a screenshot, they also should email you and they have a hard copy inside wherever it is (usually at gas stations etc). randomly inside each printout there is a trucker trading card. Random but noticed that last time.

What rear setup are you running suspension (leafs)? I think you should be fine but may notice some changes there and you should look into revalving the shocks now that you are adding a bunch of weight.

I am swapping out my shell for a wedge setup soon and have been holding off on swapping my rear leafs now that I know they are underperforming with the weight of the truck. I had setup the rear shocks to be 300lb over stock (600lb total) ha jokes on me on that one. My buddy went 500lb over for 1000 total and I thought that was way too much but was too stubborn to get my truck weighed. Won't be making that mistake again.

 

how is the rubbing by the way? Depending if you have been wheeling much I expect you will be rubbing good with that size. I trimmed my fenders and a few other bends, deletes and still get some at full compression. Prob would have ripped my fenders off if I hadn't.

 

@nudavinci64 are the questions for me? I'm confused, or those for the OP right?

@Gen2 - OP = Original Poster (i.e., you)

 

TW is great it will educate you, make you made, and drain your wallet. Def look into the front locker like @Taco-Obsessed said. if you are going to be rocking trails where you will use it and are all in. I toss a Harrop in while I did my regear as it made the most sense and best time to do it. do you use it often, no but if/when you will be glad you have it. A ton of stuff most people will never know the difference. It does save 1400 or so whether its e locker or air (including all the supporting stuff to go with it).

 

ha responding to a few they morphed into one post. that's what you get responding late. don't pay attention to me. confused myself.

 

Now we're all in.

@Gen2

What suspension you running? Tires rubbing?
See @nudavinci64's post to me above. Questions are for you.

 

For a 1st gen auto I'd say 5.29 all day. Being a 2nd gen with the much nicer 4.0L I think you'd be fine with 4.88's. That's not to say 5.29's wouldn't be great.

The way I see the 4.88/5.29 debate is pretty simple. Some people don't like high RPM's. Those folks should stick with 4.88. Some people don't mind high RPM's. Those folks should go with 5.29's. I'm in the latter group. The 3.4L doesn't make it's 190 peak HP until 4800 RPM. It doesn't hit it's whopping 220 ft/lbs of torque until 3600 RPM's. So when I'm cruising at 75 MPH spinning 2900 RPM"s it doesn't bother me at all.

As far as the gas mileage goes. I stopped giving two shits a long, long time ago. When I did care my mileage actually went up after the 5.29's. That's because with the stock 4.10's my rig was constantly shifting down to 3rd on the slightest rise in the road. That put me at a higher RPM then the 5.29's in OD. The 5.29's are able to stay in OD 90% of the places that the 4.10's couldn't.

As far as the 5.29's are a weaker gear argument goes. Never been proven and when I talked to Nitro they said they don't see any more warranty claims on 5.29's then 4.88's. It's an old wives tail as far as I have seen.

TL/DR

Get whatever you want. lol

 

4.88s for sure. Just went 4.88s with 35s and I’m super glad I did. I think 4.56 would be better for a daily with little weight added

 

I have 4.88s on 32” tires currently waiting on 35s.
Regeared and added front/rear air lockers.
Some extra weight. No rtt or canopy.
Hwy driving 110km/h rpms @ 3000k
That’s on the 32s

 

Thank you sir!

 

While truck is awaiting regear i have had a cab mount relocate NOT chop. I have hammered my pinch weld and the spc uppers helped out pushing tire forward. I trimmed a little and am happy so far. I will know how well I did about Christmas time and keep ya posted. Suspension simple 2.5 fox coil over up front with spc uca, rear all pro 3" leaf 2.0 fox w/res u bolt flip kit archive garage hammer hangers.

 

@Gen2

I'm a 6-speed MT on 33's with a lot of extra weight and went 4.56s. I'm very aware this is slightly overgeared but that's fine with me. My truck is not a daily driver and it is WAY more drivable now and has tractor like crawl in 4lo. If I was an AT with the same set up, I would have gone 4.88s. Having said that, if I was running 35's like you are, I'd more then likely go with 5.29s but it would be a tough choice and it really depends on what you plan on doing with the truck.