Regear for 32 inch tires 4x4 4 cylinder?

My truck is a 4 cylinder. I'm wondering if I would need to regear if I wanted to upgrade to 32s since it's a smaller engine? I have aftermarket 31s off road tires right now with no lift but I'm planning on a 2.5 or 3 inch lift soon after boot camp and 31s look odd on a lifted rig imo. Input?

 

I would advise a regear but it's not mandatory. I'm 3.4 and supercharged and I feel very underpowered in 5th on 32" KM 2's.

Heavily depends on your needs and driving habits. I like to drive fast and pretty much every time I hit the high way I punch it to 100 then cruise at 85, don't spend a ton of time crawling boulders. You might be fine maxing at 70 on the high way for the low range torque you'd have while wheeling.

For me I feel 32" is too tall for stock gears. I'd stay at 31" or if you're set on bigger step it up to 33" and regear to 4.88's.

 

Clays response is good info there. I have run 32's with my 2.7, it still goes okay, needs some help on the hills at times. But ideally getting a lower ratio would be best to regain the lost power. Im kinda with clay though, since youre gettin a lift anyways just jump to 33's and go 4.88?(id prolly get 4.88 with 32's also, but i kinda prefer a lower geared rig myself) A lil trimmimg would be in order for 33's though, the pinch weld atleast. But depending on wheel BS that might be in order with 32's anyway.

 

Thanks for the response guys! I'm new to the regearing I'm not completely sure what the process involves. What gears are we referring too when people talk about regearing? All I know that a lift, new tires, and regearing is going to be a shit ton of money haha. It's too bad I need tires so soon I may have to put my old set of wagon wheels back on to save up.

 

A regear deals with the ring and pinion gears in your front and rear differentials. By changing the amount of teeth on them you can change your drive ratio.

Gears are pretty pricey. If you can pull the differentials out of your axle housings (highly recommended) you're looking at ~ $500-700 for parts and labor per axle.

I've never attempted the work myself so I can't help in that department but for just parts it's about ~$300.

 

If you are doing the lift/tires to gain function because you have off road problems it will solve in your current state, proceed, and plan for a regear.

If you are doing it for looks, that's an expensive proposition for a 350k mile vehicle. You'll be rapidly approaching the total value of the vehicle from an insurance carriers viewpoint.

 

What does your door jam sticker say you currently have for gear? Some had 4:56's from the factory.

 

Like mentioned, try to figure out what gears you have stock first. Also is it auto or manual trans? I have 33"s on my 97 2.7 5spd with stock 4.10 gears and honestly it's not terrible, won't win any races, but it's drivable. It is a little to high geared for rock crawling type situations but using your head you can work around it. I'm happy with how it feels on the street and still pull 22-24mpgs daily driving, so I think if I had the money I'd skip the regear and just do a tacobox to give me the lower gearing I need when wheeling but not hurt my highway performance.

 

since YOUR aready going from 31s your not really gona notice how much slower your truck is the 32s. 4 banger auto is gona be slow no matter what...

 

>>>>>>https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-gear-ratio-chart.365138/<<<<<<<

 

Thanks for the advice you guys. My door jam sticker isnt on my truck. I'm going to have to look up the serial number. And yes I agree I don't think I want to put an extreme amount of money into my truck with this many miles. She's my first car and runs like a champ so I'm not complaining, but I do a lot of road tripping/highway miles as well as off road trails (no rock crawling) to get to campsites and such and I'll be moving to Alaska here shortly and will be doing a lot of back country exploring and snow driving so I'm kind of all over the place in terms of what I use my rig for. It is a manual 5 speed by the way, very good truck. I'll find out what my gears are real quick and get back to this.

 

Use this method. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/gear-ratio.html

At the age, mileage, previous owners, etc. you don't really know if someone has already been in there, or the data you look up will be correct.

If you use the method above, you'll know exactly what you have. Faster than digging for numbers.

 

^^^ if you do that method then spin the wheel 10times. Much more accurate. It can be hard to tell the difference between close ratios with just 1 turn.