reh5108's 4 Banging SHITBOX tUrBo 4x4 Build

Damn, Ryan, that sucks to hear. Good on you for helping someone out, though.

 

Well I lifted the front tire and checked the wheel bearing everything seemed tight. So I pulled the hub apart and axle out and if I had to guess my horrible grind is coming from the needle bearing or the brass bushing that was a little beat up from the break. I should have locked it and went for a drive. Now apparently this SKF HK 3020 isn't a bearing your average part store has so it will be a minute before I get another. Another strike against the manual hub! The only place I can find to get the bearing is ORS. They have the bushing to but it says I need to contact them directly and it's Sunday. So I said F the manual hubs and threw my ADD spindle back on. Yay for another upper BJ's removal! Though this time I was smart and just hacked the stud off and used a regular 2 jaw puller and socket to push that bish out! Last one ever!!! The SPC insert pushed out pretty easily to to swap over.

Took it for a drive and everything sounds much better other than the damn dust shield rubbing on something. I'm starting to think those cause more frustration then what they are worth. Anytime my spindle is off I bend it.

No I just need to figure out my ADD actuator. At least I have the fsm diagnostic for it so it shouldn't be too bad.


Andddd the Subaru has a screw in the tire
When it rains it pours!

 

Damn Ryan, that's rough. That ADD actuator is such a bitch to get to, too. You think the actuator itself might be the cause? Hope you can get it figured out man. At least if the screw isn't in the side wall then that's the easiest fix of them all!

 

I think the tire was a quick fix. Put a plug in last night and it seemed to hold air.

The ADD isn't as bad on the 4 cylinder. I don't have to drop the front of the diff to get it out. I might just pull it off, slide the collar over and worry about it when I get back from PA in June. Trying to get this thing in good enough shape to drive across the country is really starting to stress me out!

 

@Reh5108 since you dealt with the stock uppers a bunch, did your top nut get torqued without running past the castle nut? I could only get like 55 ft lbs, could go more but I was risking going past the castle.

 

Tough news man! After this gets sorted, you deserve a few trouble free months!

 

Are you saying that your nut is too short and your cotter pin would not be in a slot? I don't recall having any issues. You could still install the pin and paint mark it to make sure it doesn't move.

 

Got an alignment yesterday. I asked for the castor to be set to 2.4 and ended up with 2.5 and 2.6. It'll probably be a bit until I can figure out if everything clears at that setting or not. I'm going to try avoiding trails until I get back from Pennsylvania. I do still get somewhat of a vibe when taking a hard right hand turn. Do 1st gens have the diff bearing vibe that 2nd gens do?

Things to do today with no motivation to do it. Change passenger front axle seal, pull ADD actuator and try to figure out what is wrong, replace rear diff pinion seal and change rear diff fluid as its as dark as night.

 

Yup, this exactly. I was tightening and the nut is below the top of the hole quite a bit where the cotter almost won't sit in a groove. I at first thought the nut wasn't tightening and the ball joint was spinning but every time I turned it the relation to the hole and nut would change.

 

Maybe put a washer under the nut. Not sure if that would cause any issues staying tight or not.

 

Yeah I was thinking something similar. I found a video online where a dude had a similar issue. I'll do the paint pen thing and keep an eye on it. It's hopefully only temporary till I can get uniballs. Also I feel your pain about working on the rig and getting it ready for big travels. I am honestly getting sick of it because I haven't been able to enjoy it in so damn long.

Also as far as the "diff bearing vibe" goes, that's usually fixed by the solid spacer which you should have with an ARB up front.

 

It's a Aussie locker in the front. Is the spacer you are talking about the pinion spacer?

And I had another pinion seal somewhere but it seems to have wandered off with the other manual hub.

The local parts store actually has one in stock!

@Littles I hope you are right!

 

He's talking about the ECGS needle bushing. And yes, first gens are prone to it. If the vibe goes away in 4H but cones back in 2H, it's the needle bearing

 

Got the pinion bearing swapped. I honestly didn't realize how bad it was until I got under there. Oil everywhere!

Changed out the fluid and it looked pretty bad. There were some small metal flakes along with the usual goo on the plug. I don't think the flakes were anything to be too concerned about. This is the first oil change since the break in one on this set of gears.

Messed around with a bad actuator I had laying around. I think the problem is the motor brushes don't slide freely and were not touching the commutator. I got it looser than it was but it still isn't free like a bird. I threw it back together and got some sparks on the pins but then nothing and I haven't pulled it back apart yet.

Then I pulled the one currently on the truck out and added power too it and nothing.

Tomorrow, regardless if I have a working actuator or not one is going back on just to see things up.



@Flboarder I'm pretty sure I passed you at the city market light this evening on my way back from getting parts. I was in the WRX though.

 

Well, I got one of my two ADD actuators working today. The one that was on the truck was completely fried. I think the breather tube fell off and shorted things out.

The other one had a brush that didn't want to slide freely but with a little work I was able to change that.


Im going to need extended wheel studs in the front if I'm going to run these wheels. 2.75 turns isn't enough for me to be comfortable. I was hoping that the entended shank would work but it doesn't fit through the wheel. I thought about drilling them out another 1.5mm but I'm not sure how it would effect the wheel being center. I would feel better with longer studs as well.

I was really hoping to get these on before my trip east so I don't need to be constantly checking air pressure in my two tires that have a slow leak in the bead but I'd rather that than a wheel fall off when I'm doing 80.

 

Did you use spacers? When are you heading east?

 

Yea I have 1/4" spacers.

Leaving the 2nd

 

I see. Where are you getting extended studs from? Can't install em before you leave??

 

I haven't even looked yet. I probably could but that's another project I don't want to get started on. Maybe if I knew the studs would magically pop out by just a light tap of a hammer I would but I'm sure they will fight me.

I think from a thread I read Matrix rear studs are 15mm longer so I'll go Toyota if I can. I have a list of odds and ends to put in with Camelback at some point.

 

I think I'm finally caught up on everything in my driveline. Tcase still has a seep so I'll have to keep an eye on it. Anyone know if there is a crush spacer in the tcase flange like the differentials?

Took it for a test drive and everything seems kosher. Gathered a solid inch of mud so Idk if anything is leaking yet or not.