reh5108's 4 Banging SHITBOX tUrBo 4x4 Build

So in the 03 fsm I have it says to torque the flywheel bolts to 19ftlbs and doesn't mention anything about replacing them. The 3rz manual I have says to replace them, torque to 19ftlbs then another 90°. I think I'll go with the latter, now I'll be waiting on bolts and hopefully I can find a competent shop locally that can resurface my flywheel. Marlin recommends .026 stepping.

 

@Speedytech7

Y'all are lucky - I had to get them to 61 lb-ft for the 5vz which was not going to be fun alone since I couldn't find anything to keep the flywheel from turning with - luckily my friend was helping and we could muscle it together.

 

Yes do a couple rounds of 19ft lb (I just did 20 because it was easier to dial in) in a cross-starlike pattern to make sure it is being seated absolutely flat. Very important, after than find a friend to hold the crank from turning with a breaker bar and do the additional 90 degrees, again in in a cross pattern. The bolts are stretch bolts so don't reuse your old ones, that is asking for major failure. The elasticity of that last 90 degrees is paramount to keeping the flywheel in place, I used OEM bolts which come preapplied with thread locker. There are ten of the little bastards so mark them after you do your 90 degree step so you don't forget which have been done. I used a new flywheel so I can't tell you what you should grind yours to. @Reh5108

 

Thanks! I might borrow a dial indicator from work just to make sure that there is no runout when I reinstall. Probably not necessary but it can't hurt.

 

@Speedytech7 how critical is it to reinstall the flywheel the same way it came off? I didn't think to mark it.

 

Not even slightly, they aren't balanced as a pair. Install as you please

 

Good to hear

 

My diff is on the way back from ECGS. They said there was a seal that needed replaced. There customer service has been top notch. There were some issues in the shipping department but they were happy to get it sorted out. I sent it out the 7th and should have it back by the 16th. Pretty good turn around time in my opinion.


Also I got an offer on the car that I can't pass up so the truck will be back to DD duties until I can find a beater. Then rebuilding the motor.

 

Truck is back on the road. Clutch honestly feels the same other than the pedal being buttery smooth and almost too easy to push.

The ARB seems to be sealing up but I won't really know until I use it. The whole warranty process with ECGS went very smooth. Not a penny out of my pocket.

Next project will be new springs. Then pulling the bed off, fixing my gas tank, boxing the frame and some sort of shock relocate.

I haven't heard from the guy who wanted to buy the car in a few days so I might be hanging onto it for a while.

 

What clutch did you go with? I’m sure you said it but I don’t feel like looking

 

The Marlin 1200lb pressure plate one. It feels lighter than what I had but that could be because of the throwout bearing being bad. I want to look up the part number of the old pressure plate and see if that was the stock 900lb. Also i had the flywheel resurfaced with the step at .025 instead of oem spec of .02. It changed where it engages slightly but not by too much.

 

My biggest thing I noticed with mine was that it felt so much "grabbier", like I could really pinpoint engagement.

 

Replaced my steering rack billow today and while I had that wheel in the air I checked the lbj. It already has a very small amount of play. Looks like I might go through a pair a year or LT

 

Didn't you just replace your LBJs before RT?

 

Yep. Probably not even 2000 miles on them

 

dang dude, your doing OEM too aren't you?

 

Yep. Id say its close to the oem maximum spec of 0.5mm of play. I dont have a dial indicator to check though.

 

I wonder if there's something else going on? I put new OEM ball joints in spring of 15, so they have 3 hard wheeling seasons on them, and they're still fine last I checked.

 

I've wondered the same thing. Just cant think what it would be.

 

The only thing that I would think would cause those to fail prematurely is overextending the joint.

What I wonder about is those SPC arms. With their big ball joint increasing the height between the spindle and UCA, the UCA is at a different angle than stock. Probably the same reason you smash the zerks through the fender. This would introduce bump steer, and put the spindle at a steeper angle at full bump. Just a completely guess.

Ever cycle the front without the shock? You're definitely not over-extended them on downtravel with your OMEs.