reh5108's 4 Banging SHITBOX tUrBo 4x4 Build

Heat. Heat can kill a turbo too. Along with many other things

 

I'm thinking heat and the extreme cold it's seen could all be factors. I know I haven't been the greatest at letting things cool before shutting off the motor as it was my understanding that's a big pro of the water cooled system being able to thermal syphone after the engines been shut off.


Might end up buying a cheapo eBay turbo and just swap the turbine housing to my rebuilt CHRA. I can't seem to find many housings that match what I need.

 

Playing with the welder a bit today. It works! Need to run a good bit more heat than what it recommends though. This should suffice for my projects for awhile.

Pulled the bed and started taking measurements for the bed crossmembers. I'll be completely cutting the old out and using 11 guage steel for the new ones. From what I can tell that's almost twice as thick as stock. Think I may draw them up on CAD and send them out to be laser cut so that I don't have to drill all of the holes and they'll be able to be replicated for others. Unsure if I want to use bolts or rivet it to the bed floor. A little worried that rivets would loosen up over time.
Hopefully my Chinese turbo is here Monday so I can move the truck out from under the bed to the other side and begin prepping to recoat it. It didn't take long for the mag chloride or salt to start eating at me frame here. I HATE THAT SHIT, it's vandalism.

 

You should just make a flatbed with a removable canopy like in Australia

 

I've considered it. I don't want it to be any heavier than the current bed is so it's going to take some thought. Would be nice also if I would make the sides fold down to haul two snowmobiles. Maybe next year's project...

 

Every time I get the urge to turbo my 3RZ, I read a turbo 3RZ build thread and all the problems that come with a turbo build and I suddenly no longer want a turbo

 

Live and learn. There's plenty of things I would do differently also but had to start somewhere for my first time messing with turbos. Not many people out there turbo for low end and that's where the fueling blows with theses ecu's. I think if i had better fueling none of the cracking would be a problem.

 

Well completely frankensteined my turbo. Bought a. 48 turbo off ebay with hopes of just swapping the turbine housing for my cracked one since I couldn't find just the housing or an affordable t3 t04e 48ar 70ar anywhere. The serial numbers on my turbo didn't match anything I could find that came equipped on anything. Any who the turbines were ever so slightly different so the new housing would not sit all the way down without contacting the turbine. So I disassembled the the other turbo, put that turbine and shaft into mine and everything seems to good.

I'm probably going to regret it but if it works it works. If I was building high boost I'd be worried about balance but for now I'm not. I was actually surprised to see balance marks on the ebay turbo. I would have just used that one but the inlet and outlet are smaller than my current setup and I didn't want to rework everything again.



Comparison of the 70ar and 60ar

 

eBay turbo?

 

Looks like he may have what I need. Is this the current state of Colorado?

 

Got it hooked back up yet?

 

No. Need some new hardware since the t3 flange on the new housing isn't threaded. Hopefully tonight...

 

Fired it up tonight. I think I've got an exhaust leak somewhere around the turbo now... There was smoke coming off the turbine housing after it warmed up some. I'm hoping that it's just burning off the coat of oil on the new housing and not still pouring oil into the exhaust. Test drive tomorrow once I button a few things up.

 

Finally moving forward! Found the exhaust leak at the wastegate flange. Fixed that and took it for a drive. Everything seems to be working as it should except for my plx afr/boost module. Apparently PLX updated there app and as soon as the bluetooth connects, the app closes. It wasn't great before but at least it was usable. I did pull out the 1.5 psi spring in the WG so it should be putting out 3 psi. The highest my EGT temps got to was 1375F it used to be over 1500F pulling hills. Granted this is on a truck with no bed on it so it's super light right now. 12 afr was the lowest I saw, might not be that bad at a measly 3 psi. I can't hear the turbo spool any more and where it felt like it kicked in was north of 4k rpm but that could have been open loop kicking in. Didn't notice any leaking oil either.

Now onto the bed mounts...

 

@Wheelspinner you've really got my brain turning on the flat bed idea again. Finding more cracks is making it difficult to want to put the effort into these crossmembers.

 

This is where my head is at. I’m not there in person to see what all actually needs to be done to your bed but in my mind if the repairs needed are about half the work it would take to build a flatbed is already be doing it. Plus in my opinion it’s sometimes easier to start from scratch than it is to make repairs, especially when rust is involved. Sometimes cutting out a 6” part that’s rusty results in a 12”+ hole to get to weldable Metal. And what you said about putting a snowmobile on a flatbed is exactly what I was thinking the first time I suggested it. I’ve owned a couple trucks with flatbeds an the usefulness and options are endless. I’m actually fitting one on my 79 f350 as we speak lol. The hardest decision you are gonna have to make is if you want to try and make it work with your habitat, or go with a rack/Aussie style canopy and an rtt or something else. The good thing with a flatbed is whatever you choose you can make it removable and have the option to drive out from under it if you put a jack on each corner. I’m hoping in the next year or two to do this on my tacoma On your decision

 

Finally think I got the front crossmember drawn up. It was a pain confirming that the holes were all in the right place using my 8.5x11 printer . I didn't realize when printing straight from Fusion 360 it would print to fit and not actual size the first few times. The next two should go quicker now that I'm familiar with Fusion and parametric modeling.

I could probably buy the materials for a flatbed for what these will cost to have laser cut but I don't think I'm ready to go down that road yet as tempting as it may be.

 

Got a p0402 code today. Egr flow to high. I'm hoping it's just needs cleaned from the copious amounts of oil that was being dumped into the exhaust. If not it'll be time to delete it.