reh5108's 4 Banging SHITBOX tUrBo 4x4 Build

Very cool, did you save anything vs just buying the Tenhulzen ones?

 

No, but without a logo and going to 14 guage instead of 12 guage it would be. My goal was to be able to do 40" tires but a tire doesn't have a tangent to the ground plane so the one I have might do 35's. Easy enough to correct in the CAD file though. Saw that the Tenhulzen didn't work well with larger meats. If I'm not infringing on patents I'll consider selling them for enthusiasts who want custom logos or whatever cut out to personalize them.

 

Question on your marmount install as I'm contemplating doing it to mine.
Did you tighten the bolt all the way down to where the rubber wouldn't be able to expand at all, or did you leave it a bit looser?
How do you find the vibrations to be?

 

I tighten it until until it was snug. Not super tight. I only really notice the vibrations on startup. Never really noticed it at higher rpm, basically anything off idle. I will say that the nylock nut does not stay tight. It'll loosen to a point and I don't notice the vibrations at all when it's loose. Thank you for reminding me to retighten it. I'll give blue Loctite a try this time. It not the easiest nut to access with my skid on.

 

Gotcha. So sounds like just a little loose from snug is a happy medium between movement & vibes. I removed my marlin poly T-case mount cause there was so much vibration at lower RPMs and rattled the whole cab. Not trying to re-create that experience.

You should try a stover lock nut on it instead. That won't back off like a nylock will.

Do you think it would be do-able at all with having the front diff up there? Only thing that's really stopping me from doing it is pulling the front diff.

 

It's definitely easier without it there. I think I replaced the passenger side with a new mount while the diff was in. It wasn't fun but I made it happen. I don't think I've noticed much difference between stover and nylocks but it can't hurt to try. Might try and find some nordlock washers, supposedly they are the best. I don't recall ever seeing them at a hardware store though.

 

Yea I can see how the passenger side would be a little easier since it's only the diff diff tube on that side.

Interesting. I would think that a stover would hold much better than a nylock given that it mechanically locks down on the threads versus a nylon insert. Not to mention the heat that could affect the nylon insert part of it.
Could also maybe try a flex-top locknut. https://www.mcmaster.com/94560A120/



But yea you won't find that kind of stuff at a hardware store typically. Can get it through somewhere like Mcmaster or Fastenal though.

 

I have a local fastener store called Olander that carries the Nordlocks and just about anything else you can think of. Nord lock is awesome, though I am also a fan of Stover nuts and as mentioned above, I don't know how they would be prone to loosening. Though Nordlock is the only locking solution that requires more break away force before actually loosing fastener preload. Even safety wire you can apply the same torque the fastener was torqued to in the loosening direction and the wire will stop it, but you are likely to loose some preload first.

 

Love that plate.

Looks like it welded more easily with MIG, than it would have with a TIG setup.

 

Made some cross bars for the next. Need to trim a 1/4" off the one side before it takes out the window...

Think I finally traced my steering wheel shakes to the steering rack guide bushing not having enough tension on it.

 

Shitbox is starting to look not so shitty. Almost time for getting back to mods I hope. Not sure if I care about the catalyst being below threshold or not. Would be nice to not have the CEL on.

 

Oops








Hoping to borrow a thermal imager and check where the hot spots are and maybe tape some yarn on the hood to find the low pressure areas. Not sure if any of that will matter as the only place these louvers will work without cutting the hood supports is here which is directly above the exhaust.



I was originally thinking of following the hood lines and putting them outboard more but that's right through the X support of the hood.

 

I guess since you have a turbo, this location might not work the same, but:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzUImpKxFDc

 

I think you broke that tie rod end.

I would make them sit even on the hood.

 

Cool oil cooler setup. I love his video where he parks in front of a pole and just let's the clutch out, hops out and just watched the torque spin the tires on blacktop.

 

They will be symmetric and the flange will be flush on the hood. The one is already bent up. Need to keep the other one straight to use for a template.

 

Ok in the first picture they don't look symmetrical. Ya templates are a very handy thing.

 

Borrowed a buddies Milwaukees M12 thermal imager. Images aren't great but its pretty easy to see that the heat definitely holds in the center of the hood with the 3rz. I can't seem to upload the image or I would.

The finished product. I'm going to make my own at some point since I messed these up a little. You may or may not be able to tell.

 

They look good. I can't see what is any problems with them.

 

Figured I'd finally pull the codes for the SRS system thats been on since the truck was flooded 4 years ago... Looks like my truck is suggesting I go play the powerball 31 12 52 54 15.