Reloading BS thread

You can buy a separator pretty cheap. The Frankford Armory strainer fits into my small round waste basket to recycle the media. I had an orange tumbler once where the bowl was removable, making it a little easier to work with .

 

I am adding the media separator to my list now - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/731116/frankford-arsenal-standard-media-separator?cm_vc=wishList

 

You will be very glad you did. When I first started reloading I used one tumbler with just walnut media, then I got a second tumbler and run corncob in it. Having to use your hands to get the brass out of the media really sucks after a while lol and can be very messy. I bought the RCBS media separator last year and immediately kicked myself in the azz for not getting it earlier.

 

Shot skeet with a gentleman couple of years ago that was using 410 brass. He had some issues with bloopers, it was cold and he wasn't developing enough pressure. And carried a rod with him to knock out the brass because they wouldn't eject most of the time.

Personally I have been known to go head first into a dumpster after hulls especially if they are STS. But have nothing against AA hulls either. And have thousands of them and keep adding every chance I get. Don't really see a need for brass shotgun hulls myself.

My avatar came from when I was reloading hunting loads 12 years ago and the Toller was a pup and getting under foot. So I picked him up and put him in an old keg of Red Dot, thought it would make a neat picture:

I'm sure there are some on here that recall when you could get 12 pound kegs of powder yet, this one I got in 83.

2 MEC 9000's 12 ga. one with an original Automate made by Ben before he sold the design to MEC. Used to shoot registered targets with my son and we would go through 20K rounds a year in 12 ga. And a MEC 9000 in 20.

Dillon 650 for pistol.

Rockchucker for rifle I bought in the 70's and still going strong.

 

I was debating picking up some of the mag tech brass shells, I believe that I can reload them without a press. I would only be shooting them in the summer out of a pump gun anyways. And could it have also been because if the brass itself?

I know that some people that make brass .410 shot shells from .303 Brit brass, maybe that was the problem?

 

I'm pretty sure they were 444 reformed to 410. If you tell me what your trying to shoot and accomplish I might be able to help.

It isn't rocket science, hell if it was any one could do it. Nuclear Engineering on the other hand....

Moved to Mn. from Asheville NC where I had lived after retiring from the Navy, which was after my father died of cancer. Figured I can't cure cancer but could help those that might cure cancer, It was a good move on several accounts. I now know what Gene and Barry Wensel were talking about when talking about river bottom bucks after I saw their names in the Rochester Archery Club (RAC). There is reason that Pope and Young is Chatfield Mn... Although I regularly watch 140+ class bucks walk up the ravine behind my house at 40 yards or less while drinking a cup of coffee and smoking a cigar. And I have a 60 yard archery range in my back yard. Had no idea about Mn. being the ruffled grouse capital of the US and where the RGS holds it annual shoots but it doesn't hurt now that I live here

After 17 years of putting in for Mulies and Elk in Co. this is the first year that I have not. Would rather run the dog for ruff grouse in Mn. and phez in SD. And I also like breaking breaking clays, shot a lot of them over the years in competition. So what are you trying to accomplish by using brass hulls and why not use plastic STS or AA tapered hulls?

I see nothing to be gained by using brass for shot shell brass except for sub gauges. And never seen anyone in registered shoots use them.

But am open to other ideas too....

PS: Got to see Geoff, Brett and Todd Bodine all run at Bristol when I was in Asheville on recruiting duty and then retired. I was raised with them in Chemung. Geoff had his Indy car in my grandfathers garage and my uncle was his head mechanic and got avgas fuel at Elmira airport. And rebuilt the engine after every race and I would help. Those were good days although time constraints and money made it seem different at the time.

 

I've been thinking about loading them with bird shot (target loads) and with buck shot, would only want to shoot them for the style points when out with friends at the range and because I own an ithaca 37 that I am debating turning. Into a trench gun replica (it's in rough shape) and want to have some 12 ga buck shot for it in brass cases, similar to these

http://www.armslist.com/posts/30395...s--12-gage-no--00-buckshot-m19-in-great-shape

 

Now it makes 100% sense, and extra style points for a shotshell bandolier to show them off with! I think brass hulls with a trench gun would be the perfect use for full brass hulls.

Ballistic Products Inc. (BPI) carries a lot of odd stuff for reloading including brass hulls for about a buck each. And a manual on reloading brass hulls is available. BPI is rather spendy but good for hard to find stuff. If you haven't already I'd poke around over on Shotgun World too and see what others have done and are doing with brass hulls. Good luck!

 

Brass cleaning stuff purchased!

 

hey guys, I'm planning on starting to reload 30-06, but I am kinda lost on how I should build up to an accurate load, can anyone give me a quick explanation on it? Here is a list of the components I've got:

1 bottle of varget
1 bottle of IMR 4064
150 grain sierra pro hunters
cci Large rifle primers (or will have them tomorrow).

I have a good set of calipers that I can use, and a light touch on the dies (I can adjust my .45 dies by 1 thousandth increments). I have a case trimmer though I have not used it yet. most of my brass is either range pick up or shot by me, it has been cleaned in a tumbler. I will be sorting it by head stamp and/or weight tomorrow a well. My goal is to find a load that I can hold a 3 inch group at 300 yards (eventually I will also work up a load using better brass for long range shooting as well, but that is not yet. I'm looking for practical accuracy for deer this season so I can have my own reloads

I've been reloading .45 colt for a few months and .45 acp (loaded 100 rounds for the first time on monday).

oh, I'll be loading for a winchester M70 ranger in 30-06

 

all my brass cleaning stuff are in! EXCEPT for the brass polish... yay

 

100 ct box of 100 gr Sierra Pro-Hunter in 6mm, 1 lb IMR 8208 XBR, 2 100 rnd ammo boxes.

 

Step 1 for me would be to buy some cheap bullets, use a well-published average-power load and fire form all the brass, then neck size & trim everything to one length. Then you can get started loading for accuracy. Practical accuracy for deer would be more like 2 MOA at 300, with a focus on cold-bore shot placement over groups. I'm more impressed by a hunting rifle when it can put the first bullet on the bullseye rather than string 5 bullets together over in the corner.

 

I like, and agree with this. Lots of off hand shooting will also do more to help in real life than anything else IMO too.

First thing to do is get the latest Sierra Reloading manual, as long as you are using Sierra bullets. The reloading manuals (Hornady, Nosler, Speer, Barnes, etc.) have lots of good information in them on how to work up loads and max safe loads. And will tell you to never start at the upper end but work up to them. They also will tell you what to look for if you have gone too far. Bullet seating depth off the lands for accuracy is something I usually do after I work up a load that groups well in a new rifle. Fire forming your brass in a new rifle also helps to break in the barrel.

 

I thought for sure that 9mm would be more readily available by now, but I'm still having a hard time finding it.

That being said, I've found the reloading supplies to do 9mm.

My question: Is it better to taper or roll crimp when reloading 9mm luger?

They are the same price at Cabelas, and they are still doing the "Get Loaded" promotion through the end of the year. I figure I'll mostly only reload FMJ, but might do some HP eventually. No competition or anything...just shooting paper at the range. Or bad guys if they break into my house .

 

got the sierra manual already, my decapping pin was broken so I have a new one on order (all the places around me were out of the pin with the head on it). hopefully I'l be loading soon

 

Taper crimp only.

 

That is consistent with what I read online briefly.

Why is that?

Answer: Roll crimping is used for revolver rounds so that the bullet does not extend from the case during recoil, and taper crimping is intended to prevent the bullet from being pushed back into the case in a semi-auto. Hopefully that is accurate.

Here's the link where I found that: http://www.shootersforum.com/handlo...-taper-crimp-vs-roll-crimp-what-do-i-use.html

 

Second question. They have a 9mm luger w/roll crimp listed and just a 9mm w/taper crimp.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoo...=SBC;MMcat104792580;cat104761080;cat104516280

I'm guessing that the one with the taper crimp is not for the 9x19 (luger)?

 

Both are probably for the Luger, one for semis and one for revolvers with moon clips. You want the taper crimp version.