Reloading BS thread

Yes, a brand new case fits in flawlessly.

The description of the 3-die set that I have doesn't say anything about a crimp.

 

If it does not have a crimp die, then how do you remove the bell from the mouth of the case?

 

Many Lee die sets use the bullet seating die ad the criplmp die as well. Remove the seating stem and flip it over, it is now a taper crimp.

 

Cowboy: the Win 748 also has a lower burn temperature, so you might get a couple extra rounds fired before the bbl starts to get hot

 

Any idea if the .44 special 3-die set does that? I'm assuming it would be in the slip of paper that came with the set. I'll have to check when I get home.

I was just commenting to someone who suggested that powder to someone else a few pages back, but that's definitely good to know.

On a different note, how's that new baby doing?

 

Bell?

Do you enlarge the case mouth to better accept the bullet before seating the bullet?

 

Yes, only on sraight wall cartridges. Size, then bell, then seat, then crimp.

 

Yes Lee three die pistol sets crimp. I always set the die to not crimp and seat first, then screw out seater plug and crimp seperate. Makes for a much nicer cartridge. All .44 bullets will have a crimp groove. You want to seat bullet till case mouth is even or just above the groove.

 

the baby is doing great thank you for asking. And the 3 die sets should have the crimp feature also.

 

Well that might save me $18 +tax!

I'll look into that either tonight or sometime over the weekend. Now y'all have me excited thinking I have everything I need already. Much better feeling than feeling like I need to spend more money!

 

I think he left out the word "luck" after the word "good". Revolver rounds NEED to be crimped to hold the bullets in the case. If one slides forward some, you now have a locked up revolver.

 

so for the lee dies, would taking the seater stem and flipping it over effect the die depth? I have thee Hornady Lock and Load press, so I'd like to avoid having the adjust the depth each time if I can avoid it.

 

That is where the LEE FCD comes in so you can keep the seat die adjusted to seat only, not crimp and seat at the same time.

 

Yep, I usually only taper crimp my .45 colt loads but then I usually only shoot light cowboy action loads that I am not too worried about moving from recoil (light recoil). I need to get a factory crimp for my heavier/magnum powered loads


On that note, I finally got to chronograph some of my heavier loads (I should have factory crimped. Oh well). With a 300 grain jacketed soft point, 13.8 grains of blue dot, and a cci 350 large magnum pistol primer I am getting around 1050 fps average of 5 shots. I need to get a factory crimp die and load some h110 loads. The blue dot is a lot of fun though

Disclaimer: check your book before using this data, I am loading for a ruger black hawk not a SAA

 

I got a BlackHawk and a RedHawk in 45 Colt. The Single action is convertible to 45 ACP. The RedHawk is a 4" and the Black Hawk is 7.5". The best velocity out of the 4" is 1138 FPS, 300 grain Cor-Bon hunting load. Below is the muzzleflash those rounds gave me. I use 2400 mainly, H110 for the hottest loads. Check out Belt Mountain Bullets, they have some brass ones with a tiny lead core for legality and weight purposes. They are expensive but I got a few of them for those hard pesky hogs we have now.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10728824/GunStuff/640MBRH.bmp

 

Heh. "but good" is a phrase that means something like "to a high degree."

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/but_good

Basically, if a bullet in another cylinder shifts out of the case due to recoil of the round in a fired cylinder, it can really lock up your revolver to the point where the cylinder won't rotate.

Sorry for the old timey phrase.

 

that fireball...I...I....I need that lol.

The hot load that I am using is just under max loads, and my brass is pretty much still falling out of the gun rather than sticking. I am gonna try to get 1800 fps out of a 180 grain JHP sooner or later...I need to get a chrony. I really need to start loading 5.56/.223 for my AR. I haven't loaded any rifle as of yet, I have a set of .223 dies, can I use them to reload 5.56 or .223? I have a lot of mixed brass that I am gonna be loading. I think that I am gonna separate the 5.56 and .223 brass, but beyond that I'm not too worried about it.

I also have 250 pieces of primed and flared .45 colt brass that is just waiting to be loaded. They are getting loaded with 200 grain lead SWC and titegroup (which my powder measure likes)

 

If you're loading for the AR, seperate your brass by headstamp ( I mean 5.56 or 223). You will get different results out of them with the same load.

 

That is what I was planning, but other than that do I need to worry about anything?

 

The reason you get different results is because .556 brass is generally thicker therefore you have less case capacity which causes higher pressures. Just be sure and stick to loads specific to AR-15's. Dont use data designed for bolt guns in .556 brass in your AR. Or you can decrease rifle data by 10%.