Reloading BS thread

I've seen those factory Rem barrels be hit and miss sometimes. I've shot factory Rem 308s that will run 1/2moa all day then with the same Fed gold match ammo in another gun it won't hold any better 1 1/2. It probably doesn't help that someone jacked up your rifle playing gun smith. Did you at least get a good deal?

The Timney triggers are excellent, I run Rifle Basix in my guns. In a precision rifle I prefer the after market triggers over factory with a couple of exceptions, the AI, FN and the Sako

 

Heres what i do.

Usually 5 shots with my "default" ammo for the caliber to verify the scope is zero'd. (if totally new caliber this is usually just 5 extra of the lowest charge).

Then i do a round robin of shorts. Basically load up the magazine with 1 round of each charge . Shoot those. Load the second round of all the charges and shoot them. Continue till all 5 shots for each charge have been fired.

From there i go home. Find the three groups that shot the closest together (ie same vertical stringing, same horizontal stringing). Load up the middle charge of the three. If im happy already with group size then ill just load those up. If i think i want a bit more ill load up some different lengths and go do the same thing with those.

Only take me ~30 minutes to do a round of testing at the range. As for cleaning. I clean when i start seeing the groups open up a bit or just whenever i fell like it. But cleaning of the barrel is a patch or two followed by an oiled patch and that sit.


But im not shooting for the smallest possible group possible. Just a nice, tight consistent group.

 

200$ +some welding for it and a knock off luepold m4 or mk4? 4.5-14 that has green and red retical. I got a 4-16 nikon that ill throw onto it for now

 

When you say robin of shorts are you taking one round from each level of charge and firing them each at a restepective target for each charge and then repeating? If so is that to just keep a consistency to make sure one round firinf is not different to the next?

 

Sounds like not too bad a deal, he probably had issues getting it to shoot as well, there's a reason he tried to muzzle break it. I'd find a load that shoots consistent at 500-600yds, 8" would get it done, then shoot the piss out of it, have another 30cal barrel on hand for when it burns out. Then take it to a reputable gun smith.

I would trust the tracking on Nikon before the knockoff. Do you have a good set of rings? If the knockoff tracks maybe put it on a 22, ifen it don't I'd kick it to the curb.

 

Tracks? All i know is that the rear optic actually unscrews off without adjusting.. and that it or the rings are crap. Shot it one week and zeroed it, stuck it in a hard case and few weeks later shot it and had it off 7inches at 100yds. So i figure that nikon and rings for the nikon being 1inch instead of 30mm will fix both plausible causes.

 

OK. First off, I would never clean a rifle that often. 50-60 years ago benchrest guys cleaned often because the powder they used was extremely dirty and accuracy suffered quickly. Those days are over. Clean when the barrel tells you it needs it. A .308 class rifle should easily go 100 rounds or more with a decent barrel in between cleanings. Also, why would you foul the rifle with different powder and bullet than what you are wanting to shoot for accuracy? That is counterproductive.

Just load up how ever many rounds you want to shoot, let the barrel cool completely between groups, and stop wearing out the barrel with your cleaning rod.

 

Yes, you basically set up a number of targets (ie if you have 5 charges you are testing you set up 5 targets). Then pick a target for each charge weight. Then shoot round 1 of each weight at their targets. Then round two. Then three. Ect.

I like doing it that way over a day of testing cause each "round" is all shot at about the same barrel temp and dirtyness level. Instead of firing individual groups and then group 8 has had 35 rounds before it gets its first round off. Ive also found it takes less pressure off the shooter IMO. If you send a flyer you dont have to feel like your next shot on group has to be on point or you end up with a three round group instead for example.

Then for picking the charge I dont go off the tightest velocity spread (if using a chronograph) or the tightest group. Rather the middle of three groups that impact at the same point. So if you shot 5 groups (charges) and charge 1 was 1/2" low, group 2 was 1/2" high, group 3 was 3/4" high, group 4 was 1/2" high, group 5 was 2" high. Then the three closest would be 2, 3, and 4. 1/4" is an acceptable difference in spread. So i would take group 3's charge and that would be the charge i use. Generally its more like 7 or 8 groups so not quite as simple to see lol.

The thought being even slightly +/- on a charge by a grain or two will give the same point of impact. Then you can play with seating depth to tighten up the group and tighten up the groups (if possible)

Like i said that show i do it and found it works for me. It generally gets me under 1" or less groups in the initial testing which is generally good enough for me and i dont bother changing anything else.

 

I wouldn't waste anymore time than you have with the knockoff scope.

The dia of the scope tube is not necessarily the issue, 1" vs 30mm, the reason for the 30 is it allows for a bit more travel of the erector assembly in the scope body. You should have the scope mounted in a good set of matched rings (I'm partial to Badgers). They need to be properly torqued 65in pounds is recommended (I use a feeler gauge to make certain my rings are torqued evenly side to side)

Tracking: with the precision rifles we are frequently dialing our elevation depending on the distance to target. So when I dial back to my zero I need know that it has returned to zero. There is also a math drill that we do that has you shooting a box. If the scope doesn't track accurately you're done before you start.

Is the Nikon more of a hunting scope? Set a zero and leave it?

You could use a technique called point blank zero. You are basically shooting through a pipe, you set your zero to the middle of the effective range, hold a bit under at close range hold over at longer.

My $0.02, I've gone as many as +3000rds before cleaning the bore.

 

Only think i meant between the scopes was the fake was a 30mm tube and the nikon is a 1in tube. So i have tot swap rings as well.

And its got dial turrents so i can dial as i go. Its also a bdc retical so i have to plug in all that stuff to see what they hit at where.

 

Anyone loading subsonic loads? I've started loading for my 7-08. It's a lot of trial and error as there is very little info on subsonic loads outside of a few cartridges. I've been using Trail Boss with the goal of staying below 1100fps and not getting a bullet stuck in the barrel. So far so good.

As I really had no where to start, I loaded the 150gr SMK, 150gr NBT, 162gr A-MAX, and 168gr Berger with 10.5gr of Trail Boss. Mostly just wanting to see what speeds I was at so I would know how to adjust. The results were not what I thought they would be. For one thing, I am using a 26 inch barrel, which is not ideal. Too much friction. A short barrel would be better. The 150gr bullets were both pushing the 1100fps range, but were inconsistent. The speeds varied as much as 100fps. The 162gr was a little slow at 1020fps, but only varied by 20fps. The 168gr was at 950fps, but only varied by 15fps.

I really wanted the 150s to shoot well as I have a surplus. I will try them with a magnum primer to see if that helps. It's obvious though that the heavier bullets are going to be more consistent. I will increase the powder a bit to hit 1050fps and start shooting for accuracy. I have a 9 twist, so hopefully that will be enough at these speeds. Even without the silencer, these loads are a lot of fun. The sound of hitting steel is louder than the gun.

 

I load a few rounds subsonic but have always had good starting points from online or manuals. Sounds like you are doing it right though and I wish ya luck!

308 is the only one I load subsonic that doesn't have tons of info. The rest are common (like 300bulk)

 

Have you found the heavier bullets to be more consistent velocity wise? I don't know if it's just because I'm shooting them in a long barrel or if generally heavies are better. I just hope I have a fast enough twist to shoot the 162-168s at these speeds. I'm really hoping for at least 150yd accuracy if not farther.

 

Im definitely not the expert on this topic lol.

I mostly have only used heavier bullets. Being 308 and 300blk use the same bullets ive used 208 and some 220 stuff. I have heard of guys trying 150gr in 308 and 300blk and having mix results (subsonic wise) so it might be the same sort of deal.

 

With the lighter bullets, there may not be enough of a chance to build good pressures to shoot consistently.

 

This one too @CO MTN Steve

 

Man, this is an Expensive place (TW) to lurk on.

 

Alright folks, Beginner here (although @3378jakesr5 gave me Demo on 300 BO last fall) what all equipment would I need to reload 5.56 m 300 BlackOut. I know there is some re-sizing (length and bullet diameter) involved for 300BO.

Without talking brands, what all would I need to get?

 

300 bo die set, (that would have a sizer, and bullet seater) trimmer to cut the 5.56 brass to length, something to do the final trimming to length (i have the worlds finest trimmer verson 1) and the rest is basic tools you need for reloading anything else.

 

-Dies (which will include sizing die, bullet seat die, and possibly a crimp die)
-Powder measure
-Priming system for the cases
-Calipers for checking lengths
-Press
-Case lube for resizing
-Scale for checking weights

Youll need to decide if you want to make 300blk brass or just buy it. I just buy it these days since its not that expensive.

Look into one of the start kits as they have everything but dies for someone to get started