Reloading BS thread

Digital just means more cost, more to break and more batteries. My first was a digital and I hated it. Have bought two dial calipers since then. Same with a scale - my first was digital but I've bought a balance beam scale now and love it. I'm not a crazy prepper or anything but I don't want to rely on batteries to reload.

 

Loading with cannelure bullets you need to be sure all cases are trimmed to same length and seat bullet to where case mouth is flush with top of crimp groove. This way you have good uniform crimp on all rounds. And yes any lever gun round needs a good crimp.

 

x3 my dial calipers are hand me downs from my grandpa. He even had them kept in the original felt lined case haha

 

Almost any tumbler will do a decent job. There just isn't a lot of science to it. But the Franklin tumbler is a bit of a pain since the bolt holding the bowl is exposed through the bowl- meaning to dump it into your sifter, you're picking up the whole thing, motor and all.
The Lyman I had before had a molded shaft around the bolt, so the brass and media never touched the bolt. You simply undid the wingnut, and lifted the bowl off the motor unit.

 

Harbor Freight tools- digital, for around $20.

 

subbd

 

I have been witness to two case failures with the .40 and re-loads, one up-close and personal. The first with with a shooting buddies Sig and his personal loads, "Doc" has about 30 years reloading experience with all calibers. Put about 20 rounds through and boom, face full of gunpowder, bullet made it about 3/4 of the way down the barrel. Gun held together well, grips smooshed out a bit, scared the crap out of me. The next time "Doc" was shooting another of his .40's using the range reloads, boom, pretty much the same damage. I was in the next lane, heard it but didn't see it happen. Needless to say he only shoots new factory ammo in his .40's now, in all of his years reloading tens of thousands of rounds, his only two failures and one wasn't one of his. My oldest son has a .40 and this has convinced him to do the same.
I have been shooting .357 and 9mm reloads for 20 plus years with no issues.

 

I've been told not to use lead bullets in polygonal barrels. Not sure why, as I didn't have much trouble with them in a G21.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Since I am deployed, I have plenty of time to read up before I will be able to reload. I'm using the Hornady FTX (Flex Tip) and based on Hornady's site, they have the cannelure. I have not made any 30-30 rounds yet, so I won't have to redo my work. I just started reloading right before I left for deployment. I hope that I don't forget everything and have to relearn what to do.

 

Anyone know of a place that has 357 mag brass in stock?

 

Do I need a primer pocket cleaner? or would tumbling the brass take care of it?

 

I don't have one. Not sure what the point is, unless your pockets are so dirty they're keeping new primers from seating. As long as you have a clear flash hole, you'll have good ignition.

I do inspect every pocket after tumbling for stuck media. Any media is removed with a small pick or eyeglasses screwdriver.

 

You said "flash hole" :gigity:

Thanks guys. Natchez, along with everyone else, is taking forever with shipping so I havent been able to start reloading. Just waiting on my dies, bullets, and shell holder

 

So, in fact you do use a primer pocket cleaner, just not a tool designed for the job.

 

No.

 

So what do you use the pick or eyeglass screwdriver for? Thought you stated you used those to remove media from the primer pocket, or flash hole.

 

I was just being an ass. A primer pocket cleaner is usually a small wire brush like a jeweling brush, or a scraper like a tiny AR carbon scraper. Even if you use one, you'll still need a pick to clear primer holes. I don't consider them the same.