Reloading BS thread

About how much does it cost to get into reloading? I want to start making handloads for my 308. Quality over quantity, want to see how accurate my Tikka can really be.

Edit: Reading the link in the OP now.

 

It all depends on how fancy you want to get but you could probably get the basics required for a single stage setup for ~$300-350. You can start with that and upgrade a tool here or there as you go.

I use an old RCBS Rock Chucker I got from my dad and a cheap Frankford Arsenal scale that is surprisingly fairly accurate. I've found that the actual loading is the easy part, case prep is 80% of the work. If you are only doing small batches of stuff for a bolt gun you can get away with manual case trim and deburring tools but if you want to start loading bigger batches you will for sure want power tools to speed things up.

 

Reloading isn't cheap. Small cartridges there is zero money savings. Quality is better since you can pick your brass, primer, powder and bullet and tailor it to your rifle. Few hundered for a good press, upwards of 100 for a great set of dies and shell holder. Brass about a buck or more a piece, powder 20-30$ per lbs. Good quality bullets about $1 a piece.
Then the miscellaneous equipment for reloading and then your time.

 

Start up isnt cheap. Once you get/keep your brass, get powder, bullets, etc its actually cheaper than store bought stuff but the intial start up is the expense.

 

Money savings in reloading is achieved by buying in bulk. You won't save much doing a few hundred at a time, but quality will be higher than factory. Buy 8lbs of powder at a time instead of 1. Buy 5000 bullets instead of 100. Buy 5000 primers instead of 1000. Lee die sets are $25, and they come with shellholders. Scan Craigslist for used equipment, sometimes pennies on the dollar. Buy pulled/demilled projectiles when available. Find a local reloading buddy and split hazmat fees on bigger primer/powder orders.

 

Depends on what bullets you shoot, along with brass, powder and primers. Primers tend to run about the same no matter which you buy. Brass is spendy for GOOD brass. Brass only lasts so long. Good bullets are spendy if you buy good quality as in Berger, Nosler or Hornady. It's hard to load high quality ammo cheaper then buying box ammo. I do plenty of reloading and I really get to the same cost as boxed ammo. I work at Nosler Bullets Inc. So even with the deals I get on reloading components it's still cheaper to buy boxed ammo. But! Only has to buy the press and equipment once.

 

ive reloaded my 308 brass a few times already and its still not even needing trimmed. I think it depends on your application also because I havent noticed any problems yet. I know stuff wears out but unless you are shooting 1000rds a month its cheaper than buying in stores. Just my limited experience, prices on ammo have come down quite a bit though since the New administration

 

Whatever you spend on shooting now, you will spend more reloading. You will shoot a lot more though. Plus, you will shoot things you can't buy off the shelf. Don't get into it to save money. You won't. Get into it to enjoy shooting more.

 

Mostly I want to get tighter groups with my tikka. I am not going to be able to push it as far as possible with factory ammo. Also want to get another bolt action in the future that is capable past 1200 yards and I'll definitely be hand loading for that. Saving $ would be nice but not really a big worry.

 

You definitely want to reload if shooting long range. There are so many high BC bullets today that either aren't factory loaded or are only loaded in a few rounds. I look around in my gun room and just shake my head at all the stuff I have acquired over the years. I'm currently running three presses and loading for around 25 different cartridges. Add in all the old stuff I have for cartridges I no longer own. I could probably open a store.

 

I am thoroughly addicted to long range shooting. 6 months ago I had not shot beyond 200 yards, now with some buddies I have hit an 18" steel gong at 1700! That was using some hot loaded .243's and a modified Remington 700 chassis, it was awesome! Now my wallet just has to catch up with the hobby.

My tikka in 308 I've taken to 1200 yards, it didn't do so hot, the rounds were going subsonic at ~1100 yards and it really messed with the accuracy. At 900 yards it was great shooting right around 1 MOA, it definitely can out shoot me still. I've got a lot to learn.

 

Love the .243 with a fast twist for long range, but would probably go 6mm creedmoor if buying now, as they will all have fast twists. Good luck with the wallet thing, mine has always stayed a step or two behind my habits.

 

I was recommended to either save up for a custom rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor or buy a couple hundred $ rifle in the same and do a little work to it and shoot it until the barrel is blown out! The biggest thing for me is more trigger time to sharpen my skills in different situations and just keep learning.

Reloading will help with consistency and give me something else to tweak and play around with.

 

If you don't handload, the 6.5 creed is the way to go. If you do reload, really anything you like will work as everything except .25 caliber has great bullets to choose from. You don't need custom to shoot well at range, but it does add to the enjoyment.

 

Any of those 3 also work for 300 BLK subsonic?

 

Unique and 231 work great for 300blk subs in single shot guns. Won't cycle an AR....

 

Hmmm, I'm not sure if I want invest in 300 BLK or .277 wolverine.

 

Yep, AR platform, already have a 6.8, looking for something other than 9mm to suppress when my Optimus comes in.

 

If you have a suppressor, 300blackout is the cat's meow.