remote start help

Here is a complete list for a 2010-2011 tacoma

WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery LIGHT BLUE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Accesory GRAY (+) RADIO HARNESS
Ground BROWN (-) RADIO HARNESS
Illumination GREEN (+) RADIO HARNESS
Amp Location BEHIND THE PASSENGER REAR SEAT
Steering Cntrls YES
Speed Cntrl NO
Radio Security YES

Security
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE/BLUE & WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLUE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger GREEN/WHITE (-) MAIN BODY ECU
Domelight Super BLUE (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
LF Latch GREEN/YELLOW (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
RF Latch RED/BLACK (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
LR Latch PINK/BLACK (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
EITHER WIRE WILL MONITOR BOTH REAR DOORS
RR Latch PINK/BLACK (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
EITHER WIRE WILL MONITOR BOTH REAR DOORS
Alarm Disarm GREEN/BLACK & WHITE/RED (-) MAIN BODY ECU
TEST THIS WIRE WHILE TURNING THE KEY IN THE DRIVER DOOR CYLINDER, USE DOUBLE PULSE TO UNLOCK ALL DOORS, CAN ALSO USE KEYSENSE WIRE FOR DISARM NO UNLOCK
Alarm Arm VIOLET (-) VEHICLE FUSEBOX
TEST THIS WIRE WHILE TURNING THE KEY IN THE DRIVER DOOR CYLINDER
Parking Lights GREEN (+) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
Low Crr Pk Lights GREEN (-) AT VEHICLE HEADLIGHT SWITCH
ALSO AT MAIN BODY ECU PIN 13

Convenience
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo PINK (-) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
Headlights-Hi RED/GREEN (-) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
LF Pk Lt Bulb GREEN (+) AT FRONT LEFT PARKING LAMP
RF Pk Lt Bulb GREEN (+) AT FRONT RIGHT PARKING LAMP
LR Pk Lt Bulb GREEN (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
RR Pk Lt Bulb GREEN (+) AT REAR RIGHT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
All Hazrd Lights RED/WHITE (-) AT HAZARD SWITCH
ALSO AT UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
LF Hazrd Bulb YELLOW (+) AT FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
RF Hazrd Bulb LIGHT BLUE (+) AT FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
LR Hazrd Bulb YELLOW (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
RR Hazrd Bulb BLUE/WHITE (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
Wipers-Lo BLUE/BLACK (+) AT WIPER CONTROL SWITCH
Wipers-Hi BLUE/RED (+) AT WIPER CONTROL SWITCH
Parking Brake GREEN/YELLOW (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX

Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE/BLUE & WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLUE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 WHITE/GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 2 GREEN/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type UNIVERSAL IMMOBILIZER
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense GREEN/BLACK (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
THIS WIRE WILL ALSO DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM WITHOUT UNLOCKING THE DOORS
Tachometer BLACK/WHITE (-) OBDII CONNECTOR
Speed Sense VIOLET/WHITE (AC) RADIO HARNESS
Parking Lights GREEN (+) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
Low Crr. Pk Lights GREEN (-) AT VEHICLE HEADLIGHT SWITCH
ALSO AT MAIN BODY ECU PIN 13
Brake Lights BLUE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights RED (+) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
Horn GREEN/RED (-) UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
IMO LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (DATA) AT TRANSPONDER ECU BEHIND CLUSTER
IMI BLUE/WHITE (DATA) AT TRANSPONDER ECU BEHIND CLUSTER

Modules
WIRE LOCATION
Module 1 MAIN BODY ECU - PART OF UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
Module 2 ECM - BEHIND GLOVEBOX TO RIGHT
Module 3 ABS MODULE - UNDER HOOD NEAR DRIVER FIREWALL OR PASSENGER FENDER DEPENDING ON EQUIPMENT

 

Grab a meter or test light and test the starter wire output from the alarm while trying to remote start the car if it shows 12 volts while trying to remote start then you have connected to the wrong wire in the truck if it does not show power while trying to remote start then check your power wires to the alarm usually the remote start power is a separate wire from the smaller main alarm power.

 

I also have another item that came in the box which looks like a basic starter kill...it has the 85, 86, 87, 87a, and i believe 30 pins. Is this the starter kill ans houls have I wired this up, and could this be causing the problem? Or is it ok to jst splice the starter right into the wire like I did?

 

It is ok to wire the starter directly like you did, since you have one a starter kill isn't bad but don't do it until your system is fully functional.

 

What do you mean it is a seperate power wire from the smaller alarm power wire. I have them all spliced into the blue white 12v...should they be spliced into two seperate one? I'm going to work on it tomorrow morning

 

No hey can all be spliced into the same point you just have to make sure if there is more than one that they are all connected which I am sure they are, a disconnected remote start power wire would be pretty obvious since it is a good sized wire

 

Yeah I soldered every connection I'm 99% sure they arent loose but ill check anyways

 

Well it is sending 12v through....I'm out of ideas

 

If the starter output from the alarm is sending out 12 volts And it's not trying to crank you tapped the wrong wire in the truck. Take your meter and rest the remaining wires in the ignition harness looking for one that is hot only while cranking the starter

 

How come if it is sending out 12v to the starter...and I verified that it is the correct wire...why wont it even crank the starter? Could it be something within the actual programming of the device? Like I said before I was having trouble with the tach programming. I am connected through the dbi port door, would it make a difference if I hardwired all the connections? That seems like my last resort

 

The tach signal does matter but it wouldn't prevent it from cranking it would start and die. WhAt wire are you connecting the starter wire from the alArm to.

 

Black white in the ignition harness

 

You didn't grab the second starter wire which is green/black in the same harness sorry I didn't think of that sooner use a rellay and the purple wire to send a signal to the other starter wire also. I bet hat takes care of your problem. I have had people tell me there car worked without doing the second starter wire but honestly I've never tried it is common practice in our shop to use both if there are two so I always do.

 

I actually got a hold of tech support and they told me to use that relay I got to convert the + signal to a negative and connet it to the second starter. IT WORKED! Although i know have two more issues that arised with it. The door locks do not work when the remote start is engaged. and also the brake input does not register and disengage the remote start system when the brake is applied. Should I had wire the brake and door lock wires directly to the truck from the code alarm instead of it being run through the data mode to the flcan?

 

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