Remote Start Kit for 2016 - 2017 Tacoma's IN STOCK

Folks,
Help.

I have a decade of hobby install expereince. I wired this unit in using the delicate strip and copper/copper connection plus solder. I double checked all connections.
It's installed, programmed, and tested working, however I am getting a ton of phantom unlocks... as in when I lock it, within 30 seconds in unlocks 3-10 times in random succession. It's bad, I disconnected the unit.

Anyone have any ideas? Bad unit, bad flash?...

 

Double checked the unit for wire colors?

Did you follow the connector sequence?

 

Do you have to wire in the auto headlights or can you leave that out? Just trying to avoid any actual cutting of wires

 

From what I understand is you dont have to but then you have to remember to turn headlights to OFF when leaving the truck. Otherwise they will stay on after the remote start cycle ends

 

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That looks a hell of a lot better then soldering and possibly voiding your warranty due to the insignificant hole
maybe @KB Voodoo should send these out with his kits instead

 

Easy enough to buy on your own on Amazon or ebay

 

Obviously your not getting the point. Upsale of a product, send inferior connections and tell you not to use them.Show instructions on how to possibly void your warranty by soldering. Are you able to read between the lines?

 

We didn't upsale the product based on the 3M connectors. They weren't even included in the original listing. We added them because we thought they might help, without a price increase. Turns out they weren't reliable so we're suggesting people do not use them.

 

Oh I understand your point. Sorry you have to be spoon fed everything and cant figure out anything for yourself, have fun with the installation

 

Hey the seller is always right on TW I see the trend.

 

I'm really confused on what our getting at. You don't have to solder strip and twist. It's the safest way even over those connectors. No ones trying to loop hole you here

 

It's been a selling point since at least december 8th. Wonder how many actually bought it thinking it would be a somewhat plug and play option only to be told otherwise after the fact. @Esto seems to have been one of those based on post 48 and quick splices have been mentioned multiple times as "going to make things a breeze". It's only about $10 to go the posi-tap route but I could see where some would feel a bit slighted when thinking they bought an all-inclusive kit. Countless people have tried to warn against them since the beginning and it's no secret that those splices are crap to anyone that has dealt with them or after 5 seconds of google searching though. I mean these things are what, .15 each, probably less based on the quantity? Also could someone look up the supported wire sizes for the red quick splices and also what size the dball and truck wires are?

 

I think many of you guys are being a bit unfair all around here to KBVooDoo and Nick.

They're no pioneers here but they took the time to invest in the flash gear, packaging, and usable documentation tailored to the 3rd gen FIRST.

They're selling at market value. Fortin and other DEI (flashed) units are selling for $120+ On Amazon and eBay.

They're offering support. bdaniel and I got bad units, they shipped replacements today.

Time is money: to order, flash, ship, follow up on the forums, deal with bum installs like mine. Some will do that asa hobby, no one would do it for 100+ of these things.

Now-
GBP and others have actually posted better, more useful install artifacts (hell I used them). Would have been great if they had posted them sooner, it might have swayed Nick and KBV from taking this on as a venture, we could have all fended for ourselves with an unknown amazon vendor and the instructions provided.

Yes, the scotchlocks were a bust. I expected that. Splice and solder is the only way to do this reliably. That was a biz rookie mistake I suspect. You wanna bulletproof professional install, get the required $30 in tools (stripper and solder iron) and learn to splice properly. You'll save yourself tons of headache later doing so.

In the end, these guys are working hard to satisfy demand and answer all the questions - but the mudslinging and name calling is unwarranted, especially for a vendor that makes great products for this community. Let capitalism rule, if you don't think these units are a good deal, don't order. Buy the $50 unit from eBay and have at it... good luck if you have a problem.

GBP, thanks for the great info.

 

You're welcome. Information benefits everyone. Those who want to go it on their own have an option, those who want vendor support have an option. "Worth it" is an individual assessment and it's up to each person to make their own choice.

 

*Generally* speaking, red taps support 18-22ga wires. Here's the 3M product brochure with both the T-tap and side-by-side style (as well as others: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/68690O/3m-scotchlok-insulation-displacement-connectors-br.pdf )

The wires included with my DBALL2 are labelled as 24ga if I remember correctly. I didn't look closely enough at the wiring in my truck when I was installing to specifically say what gauge, but here's a photo of my solder joint to the Unlock wire (Main Body ECU pin 2). I'll let the viewer make their own assessment. I really wasn't paying attention to the size since I wasn't using strippers or taps.

 

Hey Everyone. Just installed my kit today and everything went really smooth. A little advice for everyone. Triple Check your wire colors. There are lots of different colors and some look very similar. Double and Triple check your pins and color to the directions provided to make sure your splicing the right wire. Once I was sure I had the right wire I used a military splice technique followed up by soldering the connection, wrapped in vinyl tape and zip tied for extra support. I also used @gpb alternate C29 connections for the PTS and SLP connections. Everything seems to be working just dandy. I also didn't use the provided self tapping screw for the ground. Theres a perfectly placed bolt right next to the location OP recommended to tap the grounding screw. I lobbed off the tiny o-ring crimp for a larger one and used the existing bolt. Didn't think it was necessary to run a self tapping screw.

Here's a picture of my soldering handywork. This is the OBDII connector



photocredit @gpb You see that bolt right next to where he's pointing for the ground? That's what I used. Just had to crimp on a bigger o-ring connector


Also have to credit @RunMCG for lending a hand today with the install.

 

That may be @PJnc284 's photo, but thanks.

FYI, the screw and bracket you indicated are part of the drivers knee airbag. I preferred to not mess with that.

 

Meh. The bolt is still on just as tight as it was before. It's just serving an additional purpose now

 

Not saying you were incorrect, I'm just explaining why I chose to drill a hole into the OBD bracket instead and letting folks make their own informed choice.

 

I considered mounting there but didn't like the look of the giant ring terminals and read somewhere that Dei recommends against using the factory bolts as ground points. Probably just to make sure you're not using some random bolt just mounted to anything but then again I didn't major in electrical engineering. Looks like Southeast Toyota uses the bolt that holds the bracket for the Smart Key ECU for the ground on their keyless entry installs but they're also in love with t-taps so...