Remove - Replace - Install: 05+ CV Axles LCA’s / SPC UCA’s / ECGS Bushing / Toytec Coils

Hello All:
This forum and members have been an immense help for all their postings on the various projects. I thought I would post a weekend project done with my cousin in hopes someone else may benefit as I have, especially with this particular project.

All information provided is for educational purposes only and I shall not be held liable to and shall not accept any liability, obligation or responsibility whatsoever for any loss or damage arising from your use of this information.


Notes:
● Barbara @ Toyota of Dallas Parts provided excellent service plus 30% savings on OEM parts.
● The week prior or even a few days before commencing work, use penetrating spray daily on all of the following: Differential Drain and Fill Plugs, LCA Attachment to Steering Knuckle Bolts, Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut, Alignment Eccentrics/Cams, Tie Rod Castle Nut, Sway Bar End Link Bolts/Nuts, Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut, Shock Lower and Upper Nuts/bolts, Strut Top Plate Nuts.

Overview of work in order:

1. OEM Lower Control Arms (LCA) - Driver 48068-04040 and Passenger 48069-04040
2. Remanufactured OEM CV Axles - CVJ Axles
3. East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS) - Bushing
4. Toytec Coils 521600 & KYB Top Plate - SM5640
5. SPC Upper Control Arms (UCA) - 25470
6. Duralast Sway Bar Endlinks - Driver SL10450 & Passenger SL10460
7. Front Differential Oil Change 75W-90
8. Shop Alignment

Steps/Tools/Specs:

1. Cardboard or Tarp - Place under vehicle to catch misc. dirt and fluids.
2. 14mm - Remove skid plates for easy access.
3. 21mm - Lug nuts
4. 10mm Hex Socket - Remove differential drain plug and drain differential fluid. You may want to replace the crush washer - (48lb-ft).
5. Jack and Stands - Jack vehicle up and support with appropriate jack stands for desired height to work on the vehicle. Remove the jack once supported to use in step 10.
6. Fastener Removal Tool or Wire Cutter - Pry out liner clips and remove fender apron.
7. Paint Pen/Sharpie - Mark the placement of the alignment cams/eccentrics so when new ones are installed you are able to drive to alignment shop without major issue.
8. 19mm Socket - Loosen cam bolts - Don't remove
9. 19mm Socket and Wrench - Loosen lower shock bolt - Don’t remove
10. 12mm Socket - Remove brake line bracket from spindle.
11. Jack - Support LCA just behind lower ball joint and raise the LCA a few inches.
12. 19mm Socket + Needle Nose + BFH - Remove outer tie rod cotter pin and castle nut. Use a BFH as seen in the following link as a work around to separator tools - Video.
13. 17mm Wrench + 5mm Hex Socket - Remove sway bar endlinks. I personally had to cut them out due to the nut/bolt being seized.
14. Flat Head + Hammer - Pry off the hub grease/dust cover to expose the axle nut.
15. 35mm + Needle nose - Remove cotter pin and cotter lock for access to remove axle nut.
16. Ball Pein Hammer + BFH - Dislodge the axle, see following link (fast forward to 2:15) - Video.
17. 19mm Socket - Remove the bottom (2) LCA bolts from the lower BJ attachment to spindle/knuckle.
18. 17mm Wrench + Vice Grips - Remove top shock bolt, you’ll have to secure the top of the piston rod as it will rotate.
19. Jack - Lower the LCA gently (spring compressor alternative) - Video.
20. Bungy - Move Rotor/Spindle/Knuckle and secure it out of the way.
21. 19mm - Remove bottom shock bolt and Remove whole strut assembly.
22. 14mm - Remove strut top plate and install new KYB SM5640 kit (47ft-lb).
23. 19mm + Air Hammer/Chisel - Remove alignment cams/bolts and subsequently pulling free the LCA’s.
    1. You may encounter an issue here with the cams being seized as many others have experienced, I had one that needed to be cut out.
    2. When cutting out, we had success without issue with a reciprocating saw and a good bi-metal blade. Saw slow and use cutting oil (we used PB Blaster as a lubricant) otherwise, you will burn through blades. Informative thread with pictures for review - Thread.
    3. My cam sleeves were locked in place so we used an air hammer and they popped out. The LCA’s can now be removed.
24. 24mm Socket + Vice + BFH - Free the LCA attachment from LCA by removing lower BJ.
    1. Remove castle nut from BJ and flip it over, then screw it back onto the BJ so the back of the castle is flush with the top of the BJ threads (this will avoid marring the threads).
    2. Place LCA attachment in a vice in a manner to hammer out lower BJ which will free the LCA attachment to reinstall on the new LCA’s.
25. Oil Drain Pan - Place under the CV axle to catch residual oil when the CV is removed.
26. Large Pry Bar – Pop the CV Axle out, this was a bit strenuous especially on the driver side.
27. This step is related to ECGS fix for the axle vibration and is omitted on the passenger side, see following link for an explanation - Video.
    1. Removal Tool - We built our own extraction tool but it was quite time consuming so you may want to purchase it from ECGS. Remove Needle Bearing. Helpful Instructions - Video / PDF.
    2. Insert Tool - Install ECGS Bushing. Reference Video / PDF in step 27a. You can either purchase the tool from ECGS or follow this video as a work around - Video.
28. Seal Puller + 2” Coupler - Remove and replace Output Shaft Seal (where CV is inserted into Differential). Depth of the seal is crucial. Informative link - Thread.
    1. Use a seal puller or small pry bar to pull the seals.
    2. FSM specifies a depth of 0.189 to 0.229 in. from the lip of the differential tube. These seals are notorious for leaking if you don't set the depth properly.
    3. To drive the seal in, use a 2” PVC or ABS or Schedule 40 coupler. You can also use the old seal with a 2x4 block.
    4. 90311-47027 - Output Shaft/Carrier Seal - Driver
    5. 90311-47013 - Output Shaft Seal - Passenger
29. Hammer + 2x4 block - Install new inner steering knuckle seal, careful with alignment of seal.
    1. 90316-A0001 - Knuckle seal
30. Install new OEM LCA’s.
    1. 48068-04040 - Driver
    2. 48069-04040 - Passenger
31. 19mm - Install new cams (apply anti-seize) and match markings as specified in step #7, OEM parts below are universal for both driver and passenger sides - Do not tighten
    1. 48409-60020 - qty 2 - Toe Adjust Cam
    2. 48190-60020 - qty 2 - Camber Adjust Cam - Inner
    3. 48198-60011 - qty 2 - Camber Adjust Cam - Outer
    4. 48452-35020 - qty 2 - LCA Plate
    5. 90119-A0166 - qty 2 - LCA Bolts
    6. 90178-A0001 - qty 2 - LCA Nuts
32. 24mm - Install LCA attachment to lower BJ + Cotter (103ft-lb)
33. Dead Blow Hammer - Install new CV Axle
    1. Grease splines with C-Clip up.
    2. Insert straight and carefully to avoid seal damage. Use dead blow hammer to seat the axle.
34. Position the the new Toytec Coil and strut assembly into place for fastening.
35. Install lower shock bolt and finger tighten.
36. Jack - LCA up to get shock in top plate (20ft-lb). - Video
37. 17mm Socket- Install (2) LCA bolts (118ft-lb).
38. 19mm Socket - Tighten alignment cams/bolts (100ft-lb).
39. 19mm + Swivels - Tighten lower shock bolt (61ft-lb).
40. 19mm Socket - Install Tie Rod (67ft-lb).
41. 10mm Socket - Remove the bracket holding the ABS sensor wire located on the top of the stock UCA.
42. 19mm + Needle Nose + BFH - Remove upper cotter pin, upper BJ castle nut (reference video in step #12 to dislodge the BJ).
43. 19mm Socket - Remove UCA bolt/nut
    1. Use Wide mouth Vice Grips to the bend the inner fender sheet metal away from UCA bolt head for removal.
    2. We opted to cut the bolt head off with a plasma cutter and pulled it through the bottom in the interest of time and hassle.
44. Install SPC UCA’s - PDF / Video
    1. As a good starting point for a 2.5-3” lift, set SPC BJ at +2 (position D) and slide BJ all the way to outside of the arm.
    2. 19mm Socket & Wrench - 90105-A0095 - Install Upper bolt (85ft-lb).
    3. 19mm Socket - Tighten upper BJ nut (150ft-lb).
    4. Grease Gun - NLGi #2 Grade LB 3-5% Moly Disulfide 5-10 pumps - SPC Approved Grease - PDF
45. 10mm Socket - Reinstall ABS sensor wire bracket.
46. 17mm Socket + Wrench - Install sway bar end links (52ft-lb).
47. Reinstall fender apron and fasteners.
48. 10mm Hex Socket + Hand Pump - Remove differential fill plug - Refill oil with 75w90 - 1.6 qts - (29lb-ft).
49. 14mm - Install skid plates.
50. Alignment - Suggested settings for a 2.5”-3” lift, although, higher lifts had success with the info below as well.
    1. Long but very educational thread you may want to read through on alignment - Thread.
    2. Target numbers:
       1. Caster 2.5*-3*
       2. Camber 0
       3. Toe 0

 

Noted.

 

Heck of a 1st post.

 

Welcome to TW

 

Good job!

 

Thanks fellas!