Removed camshaft wrong, did I do damage?

I didn’t see two one of the pairs of bolts and bearing cap for the intake camshaft. I also didn’t realize I need to remove the camshaft pulley (yes I’m an idiot). I loosened all the bolts fully except the two bolts second closest to the rear (not the half moon cap bolts). I also did all of this while the camshaft was bolted to the pulley.

Did I damage my camshaft?

 

Oh my dear god, and now I just dropped the other camshaft on the ground (it rolled off my table). FML!!!!!

 

Oh my lord....you managed to remove the camshaft without removing bearing cap?

 

If it didn't break it's fine. If you were clue less why do you have the cams out?

 

I did not manage to get it out without detaching it from the pulley. I TRIED really hard, including hitting it with a (plastic) deadblow hammer.

I got the timing belt off and removed the other cam. In the process I knocked one of them off the table onto the garage floor... lesson learned not to put valuable engine parts on a flat table that has a vise on it...

Any tips on how to determine if the parts are damaged would be much appreciated. My first thought is to take the seals off, leave the pulleys disconnected, line up the timing dots, tighten down the camshafts, and turn the camshafts by the wrench flats. If it rolls smoothly I’ll probably call it good. I’ll also compare to how smooth the other side is. Seem sane?

 

Sane? Best suggestions 1) get a good step by step repair manual. 2) as far as the camshaft, wipe it off real good and thoroughly inspect for damage where it hit the floor. 3) put a light motor oil on those bearing journals before rotating. 4) I wish you luck...sounds like a rough go of it for you

 

I do have the FSM and am using it. (Shocking, I know, since I’ve made so many mistakes). I got confused on which steps I did and did not have to do since I’m not actually removing the head. The FSM only describes how to remove the head which involves a lot of unnecessary steps.

 

Ok so on the camshaft I dropped I noticed two lobes with chips near the tip of the lobe, on the edge. It’s very close to a point where they seem to see a fair amount of wear from normal use.

chip 1:

Chip 2:


Not a chip, this is a photo showing the normal wear for this spot:


Are these chips normal? Can I still use the camshaft? Maybe I can carefully file the precise spot where the chip is to smooth it out (without filing towards the center (since the center is crucial for valve clearance correctness)?

 

honestly if they've been dropped on anything other than a soft mattress.. i would replace them just because the risk of the cam fracturing while running has gone WAY up.

 

small round file just to gently smooth the edges, in the direction you mentioned. Cover the journal or lobe next to it...yeah what was mentioned about fracturing now or even more chipping when running...geez..maybe time to look on flea bay or scrap yard for replacement. I would bet a new cam from dealer cost a arm and leg...perhaps first born child too

 

I looked out of curiosity the cost of camshafts. Not nearly as expensive as I imagined. But still, I have at a time in the past had a hard time staying afloat financially, so sometimes you gotta do what you have to do to keep things going...running in this instance.

 

Thanks all. Yeah I was surprised the camshafts aren’t as expensive as I thought. I ordered 2 new camshafts (1 to replace the one I loosened out of sequence and hit with a hammer, 1 to replace the one I dropped). Cost was about $400 before tax and shipping.

Live and learn. Today’s lesson is: camshafts are surprisingly brittle, work out of a cart not a table, and check check double check when working on the engine.

Thank goodness I’m not working on a European or exotic car.

Once I install the new camshaft will all my valve clearances change, or will they stay relatively close to where they were before? I’m trying to decide if I need to get more valve shims or not. Currently I have what’s in the truck, one of each size, plus the 6 I would have needed (with the old cams) to get my truck into really nice adjustment.

P.S. I had read on here that some guys preferred removing the camshafts to adjust the valves. Idk maybe they didn’t have a 5vzfe. I strongly disagree with the method of removing the camshafts to adjust the valves. It requires the whole timing belt job to be done!! The only way I would do it that way is maybe if I was already doing the timing belt job (which I had stupidly just finished so I had to undo the job to do my valves). Next time I would use the Schley valve adjustment tools even though it’s annoying.

 

i use the tool. some of the cars you have to remove the cams because the shims are UNDER the buckets.

 

Buy new valve springs, too

 

Why? Do you think they’re damaged? Or should you always replace the two together?

 

Springs should be fine. With new cams, yes you should check valve clearance

 

I guess if they aren’t weak you’re ok.

 

Thanks I will push on the springs and check them just to be sure nothing is up.

I did manage to get the other two cams out without damaging any more. I also read the manual again and noticed it said that unbolting out of order could possibly damage the head itself. Fingers crossed that didn’t occur... Now that I read that part of the manual more carefully I can totally see why it might break. The head looks like cast and machined aluminum and not super thick in places.

I also reorganized my shop space (just moved here) to really get the tool cart setup efficiently, and more table/parts space so I’ll always have room to use my books/notepad/iPad.

Learning from the mistakes... and really, only breaking 2 of 4 cams isn’t half bad, am I right???