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Removing Cat Converter

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jspearson, Apr 15, 2012.

  1. Apr 15, 2012 at 12:21 PM
    #1
    jspearson

    jspearson [OP] Toyota for life!

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    I own a 01 Tacoma 3.4 L and I am looking for a tutorial on the o2 simulator so that i can remove the cat converter. I am also looking for a good website on purchasing this component or a tutorial on making this component?

    Or any other opinions on removing the cat converter?

    Thanks
    Jake
     
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  2. Apr 15, 2012 at 12:22 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Welcome to TW! Why do you want to remove the cat?
     
  3. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:13 PM
    #3
    jspearson

    jspearson [OP] Toyota for life!

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    Thanks good website.
    My PO420 code is coming up and i am looking to improve my gas mileage. I live in Montana and we don't have cat converter regulations.
     
  4. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:26 PM
    #4
    toyotatacomaTRD

    toyotatacomaTRD Senior Member

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    This isn't really a step by step tutorial, but if you leave your truck parked near some meth heads for a while, chances are, they will remove it for you and sell it for scrap metal...
     
  5. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:26 PM
    #5
    sir1123

    sir1123 Tacomas FTMFW!!!!

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    how do you know this? not intended to start argument just curious on how you get tht answer and if you have any first hand expeirence with 3.4l tacomas and no cats. please dont take this offensive i really just want to know your thoughts on this subject.
     
  6. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:27 PM
    #6
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Pabst Blue Ribbon on ice

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    So his truck can go brap that's why
     
  7. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:29 PM
    #7
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    The OEM cats on the Tacomas are a "High Flow" honeycomb type of cat. Many tests have been done to see the difference between them being on vs. off, and no gains have been found one way or the other.
     
  8. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:37 PM
    #8
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Translation for please dont make me sad for asking.:p
     
  9. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:39 PM
    #9
    jspearson

    jspearson [OP] Toyota for life!

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    I am not sure if that question was directed at me, but my experience with Toyota is limited, although my experience on removing the cat convert has been positive. With my understand if i lose the cat converter i gain horsepower and if i bypass the o2 sensor i can avoid the computer module configuring new fuel mapping. I am mainly trying to hear people's experiences with this solution.

    No offense taken.

    Thanks
     
  10. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:41 PM
    #10
    sir1123

    sir1123 Tacomas FTMFW!!!!

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    cool deal then
     
  11. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:44 PM
    #11
    jspearson

    jspearson [OP] Toyota for life!

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    If you don't mind me asking where did you get your information on the cat converter testing?
     
  12. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:46 PM
    #12
    sir1123

    sir1123 Tacomas FTMFW!!!!

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    nice to know since i dont race my truck around and i do tow my boat quite a bit in summer. anyways i heard one without the cat and a glass pack and i didnt like how loud it was. anyway my cat works just fine.
     
  13. Apr 15, 2012 at 9:57 PM
    #13
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    "back pressure" and Scavenging are 2 different things. The OEM exhaust system has hardly any "back pressure" stock.
     
  14. Apr 15, 2012 at 10:14 PM
    #14
    jspearson

    jspearson [OP] Toyota for life!

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    Back-pressure or not, cat converter robs horse but urd o2 sensor is the primary cause to losing MPG (because of rich reading it has). So solution to my problem would be buying a o2 simulator and removing the cat convertor.

    Correct?
     
  15. Apr 15, 2012 at 10:20 PM
    #15
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Cats dont rob hp. The older ones did, but newer ones dont.
     
  16. Apr 15, 2012 at 10:26 PM
    #16
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    • Idle smoothness. Check for any signs of surging or roughness, indicating misfire or improper fuel delivery.
    • Check the tailpipe, particularly immediately following start-up, for any smoke indicating too rich AFR (black smoke), water/antifreeze (white Smoke), or oil (blue smoke).
    • Listen to engine carefully for any signs of vacuum or exhaust manifold leaks.
    • Inspect intake system for signs of oil indicating excessive blow-by or cracks that may cause leaks.
    • Inspect spark plugs/wires and air filter.
    • Scan tool test.
    • Do not reset MIL light!!
    • Read the OBD-II readiness tests to ensure all tests have been completed. If the tests have not been completed, chances are the MIL was recently reset, possibly hiding intermittent problems.
    • Read trouble codes (if any) and inspect as necessary.
    • Read pending trouble codes (if any) and inspect as necessary.
    • With engine running and at operating temperature, read scan data list. This is typically a table listing all available sensors and outputs.
    • Look at Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT). These show the amount (in %) the computer is modifying fuel delivery, based on the 02 sensor feedback. Positive numbers indicate the computer is adding fuel, negative numbers indicate the com­puter is removing fuel. Large positive numbers (>10%) should be investigated further as they indicate the computer is adding more fuel than originally designed.
    • Look at the O2 sensor output signals. Sensor 1 is before the converter, Sensor 2 is behind the converter, Bank 1 and 2 are typically used in V-configuration where Bank 1 is on the side Cylinder 1 is located. Some inline 6 cylinder engines have Bank 1 as Cylinders 1-3 and Bank 2 as Cylinders 4-6. The sensors are usually abbreviated as O2S1B1 (O2 Sensor, Bank 1)
    • Sensor 1 output should be very active and oscillate rapidly from approximately 0 to less than 1 volt. If the signal tends to show high voltage with little fluctuation, excessive unburnt fuel is reaching the sensor. If Sensor 1 shows low or no voltage, the sensor could be defective, or there might be an exhaust leak in front of or immediately behind the sensor, or there could be a lack of fuel delivered to the combustion chamber. [​IMG]If the sensor does not respond to a rapid accelerator kickdown, chances are the sensor is defective. If it does respond, an exhaust leak or lack of fuel is indicated. (The preceding test must be done after the engine and exhaust system have been allowed to fully heat up.)
    • Sensor 2 should show a fairly steady signal. It is not critical what the signal is, only that it does not oscillate as frequently as the front. If the signal is above 250mV, the sensor is fine. If it is below, check for activity by rapid accelerator kick-down or by raising the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm. Any movement indicates the sensor is fine.
    • The most important thing to remember about Oxygen Sensors is that they were never meant to last the life of the car! They are wear items and need to be replaced as you would brakes, tires or spark plugs. When Oxygen Sensors reach 80,000 miles plus...change them. Catalytic Converters do not go bad by themselves, 95% of the time some other issue with the vehicle will destroy the cat and most of the time it is the Oxygen Sensors. Even when you have them checked and the tech says they are operating okay...if the mileage is over 80,000 change them. When sensors reach that age they may still be functioning but the signal they send becomes lazy and since they operate in millivolts the slightest signal fluctuation can cause an air/fuel mixture problem and that in turn will take out the cat. If you are in the market for a converter and the vehicle still has the original Oxygen Sensors you should strongly consider their replacement...if not you could be buying another converter 90 days down the road.
     
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  17. Apr 15, 2012 at 10:38 PM
    #17
    Foihdzas

    Foihdzas VA7PTZ

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    my $.02 here.

    My wifes sunfire had a destroyed cat, so it threw a code and needed to be replaced. I cut it out with a recip saw, put a pipe where the cat was. Then went to the local parts store and got a spark plug non-fouler to space out the o2 sensor ( I had to drill out the center of the spacer to make the 02 sensor fit) unhooked the battery for a while. started the car and voila! No check engine light, and no cat. Although I do not think removing the cat will give you any benefit in your scenario, but the spacer will most likely fix your code.. unless your o2 sensor is nfg..

    gl and welcome to the wonderful world of Tacoma World
     
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  18. Apr 15, 2012 at 10:46 PM
    #18
    SCSPerformance

    SCSPerformance Stealth Custom Series™ Vendor

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    I had my cat stolen about a 1.5months ago and it wasn't fun driving around with no cat. I've had several mustangs in the pass and ran off-road x/h-pipes for some free hp, but the tacoma was just a dog. the lost of back pressure made the truck feel like it lost a ton of torque. it sounded great at idle, but it droned horribly.

    i ended up adding a magnaflow hi-flow cat and it's now back to normal. this motor likes the back pressure and it needs a cat.
     
  19. Apr 16, 2012 at 7:12 AM
    #19
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    ITS NOT BACK PRESSURE!!!!!


    ITS SCAVENGING!!!!! :facepalm:


    *looking thru fridge for beer*
     
  20. Apr 16, 2012 at 9:52 AM
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    SCSPerformance

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    :anonymous: moral of the story is keep the cat;).
     
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