Removing compressor--one bolt to go....

Just trying to save myself about $2500 in professional labor by changing out a locked-up A/C compressor (along with the condenser). Through most of the disassembly phase the project seemed difficult but doable--that is, until I tried to unfasten the lower rear of those four bolts which attach the compressor to the truck's frame. I can get a wrench (just barely) on the bolt head, but no matter how I approach the thing there seems no way to get leverage for turning. I'm thinking of investing in this ratchet (supposed to generate 30 foot-pounds), but would welcome any more economical or more sure-fire suggestions.

www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-1-4-in-Ratchet-Kit-2456-21/203111680

 

That thing may not have enough to break anything free.Also it is big.If you can fit that in there you should be able to get a ratchet in there.I haven't done it on a Tacoma but the manual says the wheel is off, the inner fender skirt is off,belt,fan shroud and lines before removing the bolts.I'll go out and look at my truck.

 

I just looked at it.I would go 1/4 inch flex head long handle ratchet with an extension.Tons of room.

 

Thanks, TacoLlama.

After a good night's sleep, the sucker finally yielded this morning to a big 1/2 inch wrench and a deep socket which I was able to force against the bolt with my left hand while I cranked.

Now working on the opposite type of problem: how to disengage the electrical connector without tearing up any wires on the female end.

 

If the compressor blew up you got deeper problem than just a compressor but at least you got a start.

 

Yeah--the dealer said they couldn't find any reason for the failure other than it being a bad part, but I'm replacing the whole schmeer (compressor+condenser/dryer) anyway.

When I finally got the old compressor off, I found about a tablespoon of oil inside.

As I read the oil-balancing instructions for the compressor, I find that I'm supposed to add some oil to the new condenser/drier. Can't see why you'd want to do that (no moving parts)--or how.

 

Lots of moving parts in there what ever they say for oil you had better do it. It is PAG oil not just plain oil. Once you have it all back together you will have to evacuate the system with a pump it draws a vacuum in the system among other things to remove any water that will be in the system and there will be. After about an hour you can turn the pump off an drop the center hose from the gauge set into the PAG oil and open the low side valve it will suck the oil in. The oil travels through out the system as it is running. Each component you replace will have oil in it you will have to find out how much you need to add for each part you replace because the oil will still be in the old part.Starting to think the price was not that bad?

 

I believe you should flush the system with refrigerant (?) too, as any stuff that made it past the dryer (part of the condenser i think) may be in the evaporator. Remove the expansion valve. THe expansion valve has a screen on it to filter stuff before the liquid refrig. hits the valve and may be plugged too, needing replacement. CHeck diagram on toyotapartscheap or similar sites for it's location..

 

Well, given my current wages the project would technically be cost-effective if I could complete it in under 200 (two hundred) hours. Don't think I'll take it that far though. Right now the plan is to get the new compressor and condenser bolted in place, get the rig drivable again, then let the pros take it from there. I'm hoping this knuckle-busting stuff I've been doing would account for the lion's share of their usual labor charge.

 

Yes there is definitely merit to that. I'm not sure what is used now been a long time since I have done automotive AC but we used to use R11. A great deal of the remains of a compressor will end up in the dryer (should be stand alone) but as they slowly disintegrate lots of small stuff makes its way around the system. I’m also guessing that the expansion valve has been replaced by a venture tube that should also be replaced.

 

If you are confident it's assembled and clean then the cost will not be very high to evacuate and recharge.

 

I'm pretty sure the condenser replacement will take care of the receiver/dryer as it looks like a consolidated part; [as i look on toyotapartscheap.com diagrams, there is no separate part for this.] The expansion valve (wording fm the web site) is about $80.00 and may be on the firewall but don't know for sure.
It's a bit of a risk, imo, but if there's an assumption that the condenser trapped most of the 'junk' that may have spread thru the system, this part may be worth the chance to save. Some debris is probably there, though trapped in a filter screen. I'd be as concerned about disconnecting and flushing the evap. as stuff fm there will immediately flow back to the compressor w/o any filter. Will it matter...tough call but stuff that DOES make it by the expans valve sb tiny and may flow thru the compresor and trapped by the rec/dryer like it should.
As far as a full charge, these don't take much refrig, but the PAG is likely critical; should follow the inst on the compressor as to whether to drain the oil from it, leave it in, etc. Maybe $150.00 for mechanic to do full vac/oil/chg.
Tell the mech what parts were replaced so he can install the correct amount of PAG.

 

PAG oil is a full synthetic oil (read jet engines) yes it really is a synthetic oil not a blend and it does not play well with others. The charge is temp dependent there is no "sight glass" if the temp is "X the pressure for that temp will be "X" on the high side.

 

With the new compressor and condenser bolted in, it looks like we're down to the (literally) One Thousand Dollar Question: do you have to remove the entire dashboard to access the expansion valve, or is there any sort of shortcut? My mechanic seems to assume the former, but to his credit has advised me to consult with people more experienced on my particular type of vehicle. (I haven't known you guys very long, but I'd already trust you more than the dealer.)

 

My AC is out too. I haven't fixed it yet, but this is what I found when researching - see post 4.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/126220-replacement-ac-not-blowing-cold-air.html

 

'Fraid you'll have to get it thru the dash; maybe glovebox assembly will provide access for 08 taco. If you look at the layout of parts on toyotapartscheap.com it will show approximately where it goes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkKry31lk1E is a pretty good video; should be representative of other toyotas.

I would expect the expansion valve (which has a very fine screen to avoid contaminating the valve itself) would trap the rest of anything that found it's way past the rest of the system. Agree with drupp's link if you want to be sure cleaning out the evaporator and lines is a good idea.

 

Turns out that the expansion valve can indeed be accessed without removing the dash. Not through the glovebox, though, but rather through the firewall. I can't take credit for this discovery (it was made by my mechanic), but I'll happily take the $500.00 he saved me with the shortcut.

About one year after the local Toyota folks hit me between the eyes with a $3000.00 estimate for this repair, the numbers are shaping up to look something like this:

--Cost of parts and new tools: $500.00.
--Cost of professional labor: $500.00.
--Knowing that I deprived the stealership of a cool two grand: Priceless.

 

Sorry I didn't catch this sooner, but it can indeed be accessed through the firewall. It's a bitch, but it can be done. My compressor squeeked at around 60K miles, and I got all of the parts including pag oil and did everything myself, then took it to an AC place to get charged. Years later, it's still Siberia in the cab.

 

A few tips. Make sure you ether get a new filter tube or clean the crap out of the one in the system now. Mine was completely clogged with a metal shaving and oil paste. My whole a system was coated in a metal shaving and pag oil paste.
Here is the filter tube. It is located in the tube that bolts to the expansion valve.

Second, get about 4 gallons of denatured alcohol and flush the crap out of your hoses and evaporator. I used a flush gun and nossel that I pressurized with the air compressor. I put a piece of hose on one side of the evaporator to drain all the alcohol into a catch pan as I power flushed for the opposite side of the evaporator. I flushed and flushed and flushed until I ended up with a catch pan with no more metal shavings in the alcohol that came out. Then I flushed it a bunch more. The hoses were all removed and flushed and lots of fine metal came out as well. Then spay compressed air through everything to dry out the alcohol.

If you have any questions ask away, I did this almost a year ago, I bought all the stuff on Amazon and recharged it myself almost a year ago and it is still ice cold.

 

If I remember correctly the system requires 22oz of 134a, I bought 12oz cans on Amazon so after I pulled a vacuum for a few hours I put two cans in and called it good.