Removing paint transfer

It works fine,so dont talk about it if you never tried them.Even body shops use them too remove paint overspray.

 

Wash the bumper
Clay bar the affected area
MaQuires makes a Scratch X polish you can find anywhere. Pick up some and some cheap microfiber applicator pads and buff the paint transfer off using the Scratch X

The clay bar is an important step, don’t skip it. Mothers makes a cheap $18 kit you can grab at most stores.
It not only should help remove some of the paint it removes contaminants embedded in the paint. If you don’t clay you will marr and scratch your paint when you try to polish the paint out.


DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICALS TO REMOVE THE PAINT.
You WILL mess up your clear coat and paint job.
Isopropyl alcohol diluted is safe but will do nothing to remove paint transfer.

Always ask detailing questions in the detailing section. Most people who don’t detail will provide advice that will leave you with a damaged paint job.

I would not use a cleaner wax because the wax will make it harder to remove the paint transfer. Cleaner waxes really have minimal abraisive in them so you’ll go nowhere quick.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I hadn't even considered that this may be a detailing issue.

 

Probably because you used a heavy duty compound. Ultimate is pretty much for severe paint damage, oxidation, etching etc. It is highly abraisive and if used with a wool or microfiber pad could do some damage.

Always use the least abraisive method first and get more aggressive as required.

You can machine polish barcelona red though (all reds, yellows, oranges need to be polished regularly to maintain color).

 

Thanks, do you have something to recommend?

 

Depends on the level of paint damage.

Rule of thumb is if you can catch a scratch or chip with your fingernail it is not fixable by buffing. You’ll go through the clear coat or have to take too much paint off.

In order of less abraisive to more:
Cleaner waxes
Optical Polish
Polish (fine, medium, heavy)
Compounds
Wet Sanding

Compounds are for pretty serious paint correction: heavy oxidation, etching, heavy swirls etc. Only go for compounds when you have a tough job ahead and expect to remove a good mm of paint.
Also compounds are typically for use in multistage processes. Typically compounds are abraisive enough that they cause scratching in the paint that will require a final polish to smooth everything over.

Polishes are marketed under all different names which is frustrating for most novice detailers.
Read the description of the polish to see if its application works for your job.

If you are talking a yearly polish to remove swirls or to remove paint transfer, scuffing etc. a light polish works just fine.

I keep a bottle of Scratch X around for by hand polishing jobs. I use a microfiber applicator pad. I have a machine so I don’t buy the hand polisher pads.

Now, power of the polish process is only partly in the polish/compound. The pad makes a huge difference too. Polishing pads are universally colorcoded between brands. Yellow, orange, red, black, white etc all mean the same abraisiveness between brands.
Microfiber pads are more abraisive than foam pads (on a machine) and wool pads maintain a lot of heat so they are more abraisive than foam.

Pick the right type of pad for the job.

 

Thanks for all the info. I called Maguires prior to using the Ultimate and the rep made a big deal that it would not cause any damage at all even if using a DA and light touch. I guess they get paid to sell products......

 

I may get hated on for this, but it seems this problem is being over complicated. He probably just wiped it off lol

 

After carefully considering all of the great suggestions here, hand a rag and the solution of your choice to the MIL, grab a beer, and tell her to "fix it". My MIL parks diagonal in my driveway, blocking any ingress or egress. Have asked her to park at the curb instead.

 

Yeah no... Ultimate will do a number especially by machine.

I think its odd it burned through the clear so fast. But it depends on the whole set up.
You sure it wasn’t a rotary polisher?

 

No it was a DA.

 

Meguiars Ultimate compound, your welcome.

 

Wow wd40 and acetones y’all are wild. 2000 grit then 3000 grit then compound then polish.

 

Honestly, a little detail spray, a microfiber cloth, and some elbow grease will likely take care of it.

OP, what color is your truck?

 

What was the DA and what was the pad? Seems odd a DA burned through paint quickly.

 

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser followed by rubbing compound.

 

You didn’t read the other responses.

Just went through why a compound is innappropriate for this.

Compounds are too abraisive. Especially if the OP has any clear coated color.

 

There are a million safe ways too remove paint overspray,so good luck O.P

 

Transfer is different than overspray.

 

Removal is the same,I have done both,so stop with the drama.