Removing the defective Tacoma paint... eastWood style?

day 1

... backed truck onto ramps that my dad made over 40 years ago out of some real nice wood (no rot from being garaged since the 1970s), pictures will be here when they get here

after figuring out this air compressor and blast out of a bucket kit with moderate safety gear on i dove in head first
so far only surface crusty rusty has been found

used after blast phosphoric acid with zinc coating on the couple of sections of naked toyota steel, waited and primer 2 coats of chassis black, pleased with results so far

it looks so black now

but this venture is going to take me a very long time i think

any guesses as to how long
i will update progress if interested and i can ask you all questions how to DIY

please excuse me if i seem like a clusterfk because i totally am when it comes to this...
and the HUGEST chip on my shoulder to boot

 

What is this after blast acid and zinc coating you speak of? Can I do it in my driveway?

 

Also curious here. My paint is fubar, evidently this truck has had some adventures. I keep eyeing the paint in the summit catalog. The plan here is to use the Aircraft Paint Remover to get the paint off, sandblast the rusty bits, and then start fresh.

 

its an Eastwood company product, slightly pricey possibly, but its supposed to prevent the flash rust of naked steel with a zinc coating for better primer adhesion
i am amateur at best so learning as i go... i have just been fed too much BS by local 'experts'

in driveway using drop cloths, eye protection and several rags with disposable gloves (it does sting any open cuts in hand), i am slopping it on with a rag as its probably not good to get on the body panel painted parts with the recommended bottle sprayer

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-after-blast.html

Use "After Blast" after blasting or sanding metal, then paint, prime or powder-coat.

• Spray, wipe and repeat until clean
• Aqueous cleaners and phosphoric acid clean and etch the metal
• Also protects against flash corrosion

After Blast is designed to clean, degrease and etch freshly blasted or sanded metal prior to painting or powder coating. Use with a plastic spray bottle to liberally apply to the part, wipe and reapply until all contaminants are removed. The blend of aqueous cleaners and phosphoric acid properly cleans, etches the metal and leaves a zinc phosphate coating that is excellent for paint, primer or powder adhesion. Also protects the metal from flash corrosion for extended periods. Use on all your fresh cast iron, steel or aluminum components.

i shall look into the Aircraft paint remover, have you tried it yet?
(first i tried naval jelly which was a total joke!)
it might work better on some tough to reach spots!
you already have your bed off so you are WAY ahead of me!

 

Yeah, we used it on my Dad's car restoration. The trick we found was to put it on, and then put plastic wrap (Saran wrap) over it to keep it from drying out, then let it sit and work.

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/aircraft-paint-remover


I'm pretty sure they carry it at our local Ace Hardware.

 

I’ve got some premium stripper at home some orange can... it will eat through any kind of paint you can imagine. I have used it to take off urethane clear coat Which is known for its chemical resistance.. This stuff nearly l ate a hole through my fake porcelain sink. Luckily I live in an apartment but the sink is definitely going to have to be replaced when I move out . I’ll post pics of it when I get home from work. To be honest I’d almost be afraid to use it on my bullshit Tacoma frame. It might just turn my frame into goo LOL

 

If you got the coin dry ice blasting is the way to go

 

thanks, looks interesting ... and probably a bit safer other than bad freeze burns
will have to see how much this is
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usNv4XXMKfE
this glass bead media is a mess, got it all in my mouth today somehow, chomping on sand is weird ... and got it in my ears!
the lift rental place might even let me use the dry ice underneath

Day 2

got a couple feet on the drivers side sanded and primed, doing it with a paint brush today so its not like what using a spray gun would look like
this was difficult laying on my crooked back and stiff neck looking up at the bottom of the frame to get the surface stuff off
had sand flying right back onto the face shield which made it extremely difficult to see what the heck i was doing
while applying the after blast liquid I see some paint chunks that were not fully removed, had to leave them for now
made it all the back to the leaf spring spot, nothing but nice metal under that crap flaky paint
...
i had my truck still on the ramp tilted at a nice angle so hosed the inside of the frame out to try and wash out any overspray of the blast media that got in there.

then i noticed the drip drip drip at one of the front drain holes that has not been cleaned on the outside yet so ran my finger over it and some loose paint or something was holding back the water and it all came draining out for awhile, that water was definitely getting backed up inside there

 

had a difficult time breathing this morning (and most of the day) from yesterdays blasting

and it's at least 75% humidity today, very nasty out! ... not good to run compressor the instructions said on blast gun

needed to change upper radiator hose so did that instead and took me a bit over 3 hours to do in the sweatbox

 

Day 3 .... over a month delay in any progress but getting back to it before weather takes a cold and wet turn again

...

cold and naked toyota steel removed of crust and most bad paint by the cat




what this area looked like before blasting procedure, underneath 2+ decades of rubbery coating this was found



i am getting stoked already to put the afterblast zinc coating and a couple coats of extreme primer (weather permitting)
the winter monster will not take this from me, i refuse

... using black aluminum oxide as blast media, its much easier to clean driveway as compared to glass bead 'sand' stuff last month

 

@GQ7227

Are you focusing on small portions of the frame, or plan to blast all exposed areas?

Take it this is why you'd want my assistance in removing the bed?

Be curious as to how long the vehicle will sit after blasting before you decide to coat and/or paint.

Post more pictures as you progress.

 

yes, i have some good pics coming your way bud
trying small portions at a time!
i will need to apply the afterblast zinc coating before any water touches it or else FLASH RUST FLASH RUST

i see a few viewers from CA, ... probably have never seen stuff like this before

 

burnt through 25 lb of the black aluminum oxide pretty quick!
had to go restock at harbor freight with a 50 lb box, lunch @ BK drive thru 10pc. nuggets and 2 crunchy Tacos with a water
heard this track from 1983 on the radio sitting in traffic in the beater Corolla
for your listening enjoyment or not...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi_XLOBDo_Y

 

ok, this is from the passenger side, about mid truck, on the outside of the inner frame (confusing way to say it)
Halogen lamp focused on it to make it more intense

I'm not sure exactly what to say here..., after wiping off the blasting dust with wd40, the paint appears ok on the outside, not a whole lot of bubbling at a quick glance (just on the lower portion) but a closer inspection after blasting the bottom edge revealed this creeping behind for who knows how long. This part was not chip coated with undercoat rubber spray when i bot it so not sure if this started with tiny gravel chips or winter roadspray up under there just seeping through the paint or what
it seems pretty widespread to be just gravel chips
... suppose i gotta blast up as far as the top now!

 

I'm just wondering why you're putting all this work into the truck if you're just going to sell it to me for that low, can't-advertise-it-here price

Blast away, and remove a whole section and post back.

 

because I was unable to find a reputable local shop to do this properly for a reasonable amount of cash money
dealer mechanics time and time again gives it the expert Toyota seal of AOK its good to go, and i don't trust them much anymore after seeing what i done seen at the local salvage yard
they are most likely other reasons as well that do not come to mind at the moment

 

alright, after 7 dirty hours this is one section i got partially finished before it got dark and cold
wiped the afterblast product on with a new red shop towel from HF (it left red chunks behind so I will not be using that again!)
and wiped off until white rag was clean and free of contaminants. the silver part is the zinc coating
I left the other section naked and hosed the driveway off, which will probably induce flash rust to clean up tomorrow which is what I want and try the afterwash to clean that stuff off and see if it works or not.
the scattered black spots left behind i suppose are still paint that I could not see through the saftey glasses and face shield, even with the halogen floor lamp pointed up at it!
perhaps there is an easier way to get that all off and a smoother surface for the primer when the weather cooperates

i have an electric angle grinder somewhere around that i have not touched in awhile, perhaps get a sanding disc and see if that will work




this area needs more done tomorrow, bring on the flash rust


^^^ i will need to re-blast this area again

 

Doing work, looking good

 

Day 4 .... i may or may not have made a very big error here


with fluctuating weather forecasts over this coming week and chances of rain on the weekend i cannot get on the road with a naked frame and flash rust up the what on my way to Des Moines.
i went ahead and coated and wiped all blasted bare metal with the after blast zinc coating until the white rag was clean and then poured on the Fluid Film product for the very first time
there are still a number of spots i need to spot blast such as this by the cat on the inner edge, some say the FF will be difficult to properly remove to primer and paint but i don't have a clue yet about this stuff

 

the weather has been a bit too cold lately to paint properly and neck has given me issues being super stiffened up ... damned old age i guess
i have run the truck through the auto wash with undercarriage spray (to see how well the FF drizzle has held up) about 7 times now

... have not noticed any flash rust yet under the FF and zinc phosphate coating, but definitely not winter ready yet!








^^^ i need to run the blaster over this area again when weather gets warmer before i can primer it