Removing the fuel lines at the tank to drop it

thanks for updating the post for me

Tank is out.......yeah....Safe T Caps. Next step is to try and unbolt the evaporator box from the mounts on the frame. What a weird spot for that thing.

 

Cost savings to mount it near the tank. Minimized the cost of lines running back and force to engine compartment.

Another good thing for buyers is more space in the engine room!

 

Glad to see you didn't give up on saving your Taco. A few members here can be very dicouraging about frame rust. Keep up the good work @yarb71
the end result will be rewarding.

 

BTW, I just looked at your other thread linked above. Mine was as bad or worse, I just finished rebuilding the whole rear end of the frame and replacing springs, shocks, and spare tire carrier. My rear frame section was too far gone for even Saf-T-Caps. i am putting a flatbed on it now.

Post some new pics as you progress. I have just been posting mine in the "What did you do today..." thread.

 

I hope so......its been interesting so far. The way i figure it........i cant sell it as is and i cant drive it. .......and if i junk it ill probably get $500 for it. I might as well rip it apart and if i fail completely....i can still junk it.

The best case scenario is i will be back on the road for a while and im fine with that.

The other option was to buy some junker shitbox to drive around ....well....then i have to garbage piles

Slowly but surely......

Im probably going to use some corroseal on the frame before she goes back together if i get that far. That stuff either works or its a scam.....but it isnt worst than wet salt water adn whatever they pour all over the roads so i guess it is worth a shot.

it will be a combo of that and rustolem primer.........and a top coat of farm paint. Again....all better than a coating of wet saltly road sludge.

 

wow...nice work. I saw a guy on my 17 mile bicycle ride to harbor frieght to get supplies.........his taco passed me and he had a flat bed on it. I thought.......jesus......its happening to everyone

 

well... the corroseal is supposed to turn black about 5 minutes after contact with a rusty surface to "convert it" to ????? metal?? Or at least stop the rust.

I smell a scam. I got it on my hands and they turned black. I got it on my painted jackstands.....they turned black.....i got on my shoes.....they turned black...........i got it on my face....it turned black.....

Lots of rust all over everything apparently.

I wonder if it will hold up or if i could have just saved the money by smearing chocolate pudding all over the frame and my face....

time will tell....

 

Read the instructions
If it turns brown apply another coat.
Probably didn't stir it also
Don't put unused back into container
Yada yada yada

 

yup...put it on thick.....

Thing is.......it turns black on anything....not just rusty metal

Looks nice now. Pretty easy to grease those rear ujoints with the box off too......so i took advantge of that. THings are curing now. Paint tomorrow.


Then it is going to rain like hell all next week so i might have to wait quite a while to start prepping and welding....but i got a TON done so far.

 

......oh......happy 4th everyone! Hopefully you are enjoying time with friends and family.

 

Highly recommend all welding and slag removal be completed before Corroseal and paint is started.

 

too late for that. I figured seal it with that stuff.....paint......paint caps before install(maybe just the inside areas of them), grind out cap areas on the frame with the flap disk and then zeus them on. Then chip and finish painting the capped areas one last time.

 

Best of luck it turns out okay! take it from some that has both manufactured new construction equipment as well as refurbish used equipment ... painting and coating always goes on better and lasts longer AFTER welding first

 

live and learn i guess....
I will wait to paint until ive got the caps on. Seems like leaving the caps bare metal on the inside will only trap more salt and rot them quicker though....
Perhaps not. The frame lasted this long and that is the same gauge as the caps.....

 

When you paint the inside the heat from welding will bubble it all to crap and make it useless... so long as your welding is strong and solid, and you weld the entire seam, no water can ingress