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Removing your headliner and insulating/sound deadening

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by GHOST SHIP, Oct 6, 2015.

  1. Jul 7, 2016 at 8:54 AM
    #121
    EvilBetty

    EvilBetty Well-Known Member

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    Visor CD Holder

    Will the light map light / sunglasses panel come out on it's own without removing the headliner?
     
  2. Jul 7, 2016 at 3:22 PM
    #122
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    It does in a 2nd gen, but not sure what the configuration is in a 3rd. I would suggest removing the diffuser lens first and the seeing how the light housing/backing plate is attached. Mine takes a bit of flexing of the thin plastic to get one side (driver's) out and the other side (passenger's) has a retaining clip with very little tension on it, IIRC.
     
  3. Jul 7, 2016 at 5:08 PM
    #123
    wudbuchr

    wudbuchr Well-Known Member

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    * Clear Bra (full front) * BBP (8T0) Side Body Molding * Tinted Windows with AWS window shades * Romik Running Boards * Color matched Undercover Lux bed cap and BedRug bed liner * MobTown Locking bed storage doors, Tailgate skin and cap * Chrome Tailgate Script lettering * G-Tec Fab Door Sill Protectors and OEM Mud Guards * Fumoto Valve * ScanGauge-II * LED Interior, Stop, tail, Bed, OPT7 LED H11 low beam and fog lights * WeatherTech floor mats * Clazzio seat Covers * Removed jump-seats & rear seat-belts * Sound deadened back wall, rear posts, rear doors and front doors with a layer of RAAMmat, a layer of Ensolite, and a layer of EzCool * Insulated the roof with two layers of EzCool * GT series Image Dynamics speakers (6x9 fronts, 6.5 rears) * Audio Control DQ-61 DSP, 5-channel amplifier and sub woofer. * Redline Tuning Quick Lift Elite hood struts * Thinkware F770 (Dual) Dashcam with Cellink Battery B * Lexus SmartKey Transmitter and Emergency Key
    Simply pull straight down using steadily increasing force. It is held up with four or
    five clips. There is an electrical connector on the driver's side that you can disconnect
    and work on the lights with the console sitting in your lap.
     
  4. Jul 18, 2016 at 9:56 PM
    #124
    EvilBetty

    EvilBetty Well-Known Member

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    Ha, wish I had seen this reply before spending 15 minutes poking and proding for screws and hidden retention systems!

    3rd Gen Headliner Removal (front half)
     
  5. Aug 8, 2016 at 7:32 AM
    #125
    Taco@NC

    Taco@NC Well-Known Member

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    Camper Shell, Door stil protectors, Color Matched Grille, Rugged Ridge floor liners, Redline hood struts, Anti-Dark hood light, and sPOD Universal 6 modular with an Iggy corp switch panel
    Sub for future project!!
     
  6. Aug 8, 2016 at 3:52 PM
    #126
    B ill y

    B ill y Well-Known Member

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    Lowes in the insulation isle 25bucks it's foil,bubble,foil,bubble,foil I made it 3 layers thick. Cut the heat in half. image.jpg
     
  7. Aug 8, 2016 at 3:58 PM
    #127
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    Is that the Frost King or anther brand?
     
  8. Aug 8, 2016 at 3:58 PM
    #128
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    While yours is off, can you unplug the harness that is supposedly the TPMS sender and see if that turns off the TMPS gauge indicator?
     
  9. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:04 PM
    #129
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Well done. Looks like Reflectix insulation. Wish I had put more than one layer in when I installed. Smart to use as much as possible. :thumbsup:

    It doesn't work. @PeterVICEG tried it in another thread. I hope he'll come in here and confirm.
     
    B ill y[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:13 PM
    #130
    B ill y

    B ill y Well-Known Member

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    It doesn't shut off . Just remove the bulb. Behind the gauges. I was able to use the tpms sensors from my steel rims on my new aluminum rims.
     
  11. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:14 PM
    #131
    B ill y

    B ill y Well-Known Member

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    I don't know the brand it comes in two ft, and four ft. Wide Rolls.
     
  12. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:19 PM
    #132
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    Sounds like Reflectix. Bummer the two Lowes' near me don't carry it. Amazon does. :thumbsup:
     
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  13. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:22 PM
    #133
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    I've used http://www.lobucrod.com/ for insulation with good results. I've used it on a mustang behind the firewall on the cab side along the transmission hump as those areas heat up.
     
    Crom likes this.
  14. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:27 PM
    #134
    TinyTech626

    TinyTech626 reverses st. signs & steals everyone's left shoe

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    Stuff. Things.
    How much noise reduction did you notice?
     
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  15. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:32 PM
    #135
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    Hey Liz! :wave:
    Noise reduction was actually noticeable as there is more of a "thud" when closing the doors and the tin can noise is reduced. I noticed it more while on the FWY as my roof rack had some noise/vibration to it. I do miss the sound of rain on the roof of the truck since that's all gone now. I will say that if you plan on doing this for noise reduction purposes or to improve your audio setup in the truck, you will get more satisfaction from sound deadening the doors more that the roof. The roof definitely helps, but the doors is where you will get more sound penetration from the outside.
     
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  16. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:37 PM
    #136
    TinyTech626

    TinyTech626 reverses st. signs & steals everyone's left shoe

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    HIIII :Wave:

    That was going to be my next question, rain on the roof = almost heaven for me. Don't want to lose that, but I wanna get some better sound quality. I'm not as concerned about the heat since I only keep some small items up in the storage and not actually sun glasses. Curious though how much would be needed for the doors. I've pulled the front doors off already to put in the new speakers, so the rear doors should be as hard. Eventually I would have to do the cab roof once I get a cap and rack put on I'm guessing, since it seems as though everyone has the same complaint with roof racks.
     
  17. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:51 PM
    #137
    RacecarGuy

    RacecarGuy Well-Known Member

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    Is that stuff self-adhesive or you need to use spray adhesive?
     
  18. Aug 8, 2016 at 4:52 PM
    #138
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    The amount of stuff I purchased on the first post should be enough for you to do your 4 doors and then some. All in all, you'd still be in for just over $120. I was able to do my entire roof and back wall with full coverage and I have enough to do maybe 2 doors about 3/4 of the way each. I say 3/4 because I'm anal about symmetry and would rather have two doors that match than one door all sealed up and one that barely has any material on it. Which is also why I haven't installed it yet. Once I get more stuff, I'll get into the doors just for kicks since I've been in a truck that is all sealed up and the difference is extremely noticeable.
    There are a few threads about doing the doors in varying levels of detail. I can link them for you if you want.
     
  19. Aug 8, 2016 at 5:00 PM
    #139
    TinyTech626

    TinyTech626 reverses st. signs & steals everyone's left shoe

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    Stuff. Things.
    Only if you are bored, I've been just bouncing around the site trying to keep my mind distracted. Stumbled across your thread, and decided I wanted to add it to my list later down the road.
     
  20. Aug 8, 2016 at 5:01 PM
    #140
    B ill y

    B ill y Well-Known Member

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    Pressure fit. And some aluminum tape. Put the sound deadner first. Then that.
     
    Crom and RacecarGuy[QUOTED] like this.

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