Repeated wheel-bearing failure

I made it to the magic 74-6k on my first set and now my last two sets have only lasted 10k each. I had a different shop press them each time but i am to assume this is thr cause?
Any tips to help? RReplace all seals, pack with freeze, ext?
Someone mentioned the spidle having some surface rust where it meets the bearing, maybe get the drill out and sand this real well?
Am I missing anything?
I'm getting so feed up with this, I can't believe I am going to say this, I am almost considering going to the dealer. At least they might do something if they go out quickly again?

 

What "does" the Dealers say about this ??? Do they give a warranty on the new bearings/install that's long enough to prove the repair is a-Ok ?? Or do they just install and run .... ?? Please post any info you get from the Dealer - I think a quick call to the service manager would be very helpful ??

 

If you are constantly replacing only the bearings I would suspect that the hubs themselves may be bad....or possibly bad cv joints....the hubs may be out of round. Of course the fact that your truck is definitely in more extreme climates does not help.

 

First set of replaced bearings incl7ded new hubs. Hesitant to change becuase one, they have seeb ni major abuse in the last 20k and 2 i have apr studs in them. It's probably gonna be 800 to have the dealer do it but if that means it's done and they cover the work I don't care at this point. They aren't so bad so I'll probably call in the next week or two and I'll post from there.
Edit: new cv's with the last set too.

 

Hey everyone. I know this is an older thread but I thought I'd give it a try. I have a gen 2 2007 dclb 4x4 tacoma and am about to put my 4th front hub on the truck in 3 months. I am currently using Dorman hub set which I know are not ideal but I feel they should be lasting more than a few thousand miles each. I put 100+ miles a day on the truck, 20% of that is off road and alway loaded with a few hundred pounds d of tool I. The bed and at least half the time upwards of a couple thousand pounds of material on a trailer. I am about to do a full suspension on the truck and my real question is, could I be installing incorrectly. Everything get cleaned, greased, we'll seated and torqued... not sure what I could be doing wrong, but if it's me I'd like to know before I put the new suspension and oem hub set of the truck so I don't have to replace the expensive ones like I have been the cheap ones... any input would be very appreciated.

 

I generally don't trust anything Dorman’s that has moving or electrical parts. I’ve had good usage out of DuraGo wheel bearing and hubs. They make a pre-assembled set also, and I may go that route next time because the price has come down quite a bit from yesteryear. Cant say what you are doing wrong, if anything, without knowing what you have done. I say start with a quality pre-assembled bearing/hub and check a couple utube videos.

 

I have a 2011 DCLB 4wd sport. The truck has bilstein 6112 TRD front (2.5”) and I’ve don’t the CV axles.
I have put two assembled hubs on the driver side, both have gone bad, the passenger side seams to be holding up. One lasted about a year 10k mile the other only 4 months! The oem lasted 190k+!
Am I doing something wrong, is the lift killing them, or is this set just sh*t?

I bought this set off eBay ;

Dorman front hub 930-403 or equivalent

Koyo/Timken Bearing

Toyota or Timken oil seal

Toyota bolts

Toyota oring

Any help or recommendations for better parts is appreciated…

 

You may not be doing anything wrong other than buying them off eBay.
Unless you know the seller is reputable, you don’t know if the bearings are genuine and good.
Even the seller may not know that the bearings are “good”.

Counterfeit bearings are so prevalent that the WBA has a whole web site dedicated to it.
https://www.stopfakebearings.com/

I would buy from a know good seller.
If you kill the bearing, then you might have a different issue.

Make %100 sure you are torquing them to spec.
Guessing isn’t good enough, and YES you can go too tight.

I will suggest @05Taco4x4 if you want a good set with “real” parts.

 

Is there any evidence of water intrusion into the bearing?

There are two seals on the outer end of the CV shaft..one is pressed onto the CV while the other is pressed into the knuckle. Together they make the seal. If you are missing one, you will ruin a new Bearing pretty quickly.

See attached photo with both seals. @05Taco4x4 sells some great quality NSK bearings. Highly reccomend, just installed them in my truck today

 

No signs of rust or dirt as of last time I replaced the drives side. I’m plan on replacing both this weekend with a set I got from @05Taco4x4 hopefully this will be the last time! Thanks for all the info!