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Replace Ball Joints, Links, Tie Rods? OEM, Moog, Proforged, Mevotech?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BenevolentMachination, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. Aug 13, 2019 at 3:43 PM
    #41
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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  2. Aug 13, 2019 at 3:47 PM
    #42
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Pretty slick, thanks for sharing hombre
     
  3. Aug 13, 2019 at 3:48 PM
    #43
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Well-Known Member

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  4. Aug 13, 2019 at 3:50 PM
    #44
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Well-Known Member

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  5. Aug 13, 2019 at 6:07 PM
    #45
    erik530195

    erik530195 Instagram: @toyota_vintage

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    I just replaced lower ball joints with el cheapo 'TRQ' stuff, moog sway bar links and tie rods. From reading this seems like I messed up...however I really don't want to go through replacing them again. They gave me a lot more trouble than I thought, ended up having to sawzall off the tie rods. (Granted now it would be much easier to replace since everything is brand new, but I also had to get 3 alignments...it was not a fun week.)

    I guess the question is how long I can reasonably wait to replace the lowers with the good stuff? 20-30k miles so long as no signs of trouble present themselves?
     
  6. Aug 13, 2019 at 6:18 PM
    #46
    eon_blue

    eon_blue moist

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    I would check them very frequently...if you see any play in them with a pry bar (front end jacked up) replace them. Lower ball joints going out is not something you want to have happen.
     
  7. Aug 13, 2019 at 6:41 PM
    #47
    underaroof

    underaroof ember

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    My OEM ball joints were bad at 195k, and I didn't know it until it was in my hand. Lots of play, but none when it was on the truck. As far as I'm concerned the pry bar method is useless, it needs to be detached from the LCA to really know if it's shot.

    That being said, I've also read of people using Moog LBJs and lubing them often, like they are meant to be, and no issues.
     
  8. Aug 13, 2019 at 6:44 PM
    #48
    eon_blue

    eon_blue moist

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    Then you were doing the pry bar method wrong.
     
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  9. Aug 13, 2019 at 9:59 PM
    #49
    TacoJohn4x4

    TacoJohn4x4 Captain Save-A-Ho

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  10. Aug 13, 2019 at 10:24 PM
    #50
    Area51Runner

    Area51Runner Well-Known Member

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  11. Aug 14, 2019 at 3:41 AM
    #51
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    I've rented (borrowed) them in the past from O'Reilly. They worked. The ball joint press comes in handy for many things if you don't have a real press.

    Its been a while since I did upper and lower ball joints on a F-150 Twin-I-Beam. Outside of the upper alignment concentric, some of this looks very familiar.
     
    cruiserguy and Area51Runner like this.
  12. Aug 14, 2019 at 7:59 AM
    #52
    Fatal_Paradox

    Fatal_Paradox Well-Known Member

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  13. Aug 14, 2019 at 8:56 AM
    #53
    Area51Runner

    Area51Runner Well-Known Member

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  14. Aug 14, 2019 at 9:05 AM
    #54
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Well-Known Member

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    Why buy it, when you can rent it for free? Use that money to buy oem parts.
     
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  15. Aug 14, 2019 at 9:41 AM
    #55
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Well-Known Member

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    I used this method, which outlines what you're talking about:
    http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html

    While the method technically "works" (eventually) there are far better options, IMO.

    Starting with the removal using a 3-arm puller. You have to cut off the UBJ arm so now you're 100% committed before you even really start. Then I had to use a bunch of wire wrapped around the arms to keep them form popping off the control arm. And even then, the arms still popped off.

    Then installing the new BJ, it was extremely frustrating as the flat bar always wanted to push the BJ in crooked, and the tool had no real way to maintain a straight alignment. There's so much leverage on it that I couldn't even keep it straight using the prybar (it would just pop from one extreme to the other). I *eventually* got the BJ in, but it took several hours and LOTS of swearing.

    This method probably took 3 or 4 years off my life. The kicker is it wasn't even worn out: I was only replacing them since I was doing a bunch of other maintenance to the front end so I figured might as well do the uppers, too.

    Considering the fact you can go rent a proper balljoint press for FREE at most any auto parts store, just do that...

    I have a modified one if anyone wants it. Free of charge.
     
  16. Aug 14, 2019 at 12:56 PM
    #56
    Fatal_Paradox

    Fatal_Paradox Well-Known Member

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    @Parkvisitor The money I would spend in fuel to rent this tool three times would pay for it.
     
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  17. Aug 14, 2019 at 1:25 PM
    #57
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Well-Known Member

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    I
    Umm, good point!! I have several auto parts stores near me. You can have too many tools in the garage!!!
     
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  18. Aug 14, 2019 at 3:05 PM
    #58
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Well-Known Member

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    Unless you have other vehicles where those other tools would be handy, I would just buy the pitman arm puller, not this whole kit. $10 at harbor frieght...

    The balljoint press, however, I'd rent one of those.

    My parts store is on the way home from work, so I spend exactly $0 on gas renting a tool. Assuming I remember to hit it on the way home, lol...

    For cheaper tools like a pitman arm puller ($10), go ahead an buy it, that's a no brainer. However the balljoint press tools are a fair bit more expensive.

    Or you can do like I did and "save" money and get uniball UCAs. I'll never have to rent/buy a balljoint press again! :D
     
  19. Aug 14, 2019 at 3:17 PM
    #59
    Wulf

    Wulf let's play in traffic

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    As a DIY mechanic I went ahead and bought this kit because I was getting annoyed with running to the parts store to rent stuff then having to remember to bring it back (I forgot about a press kit that is now mine :bananadead:). It's been very helpful for TREs and ball joints among other things. Not sure what the difference is between this one and the same one already been linked with the red case.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F34PJFX/
     
  20. Aug 14, 2019 at 4:02 PM
    #60
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    I guess you are talking about the 3rd gen Tacoma. 3rd and 2nd gen Tacoma LBJ design is completely different from the first gen, so you can put any shitty LBJ in 2nd or 3rd gen and it will ride. For the 1st gen Tacoma LBJ it is critical to use best part available = OEM. Going with greasable LBJ is a big mistake. "Greasable" simple means the manufacturer did not figure out how to make it correctly so it can last without constant attention, and if ti fails, the blame is on consumer.
     
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