Replace bushings or new control arms?

Good info as I was just jumping on for a LBJ replacement howto and wondering what else should be done. Info going to good use here

 

I started to change out the bushings, what a P.I.T.A. Said screw it and replaced the lower control arms with OEM. $218. at McGeorge right now.

 

What made removing the bushings hard? Is your truck rusty? A little heat and a bottle jack usually does the truck if rust isn't a major factor

 

AZ rust free Taco, watched the Toolman's vid, (good vid) but was trying to use my 20T shop press. Getting proper alignment to press was the PITA. Had a ton of work going on, Rack replacement, transmission replacement, driveline, etc. instead of wasting time on the bushings, ordered OEM lowers and worked on the other stuff until they arrived.

 

Ahh makes sense. I bet the bottle jack method would've made your life much easier. I initially tried a press and found it to be a total PIA too. Once I discovered the bottle jack method is was easy peasy

 

Thanks for the perspective. I just ordered a set as well along with some LBJ.

Am thinking to get those SPC adjustable UCA and run them on my stock shocks for now instead of changing out 20-yr old UBJ. Overall this is good time conservation and prep for future upgrades. And still probably cheaper than getting the basics rebuilt at the dealer

 

The way I have done this since my first hurry up swap bushing job which took far to long and i ended up Cooking them out.

i buy a used set of control arms some one is always upgrading or parting out a truck.

Rebuild at my pace no pressure for time install bushing a new ball joints OEM and then one Weekend do the swap along with any other suspension work needed Perhaps new used steering knuckles as well with new wheel bearing.

Everything ready to go just all done at once get the front end aligned.

Removed parts get rebuilt or tossed depending on condition .

Unless the vehicle platform changes for the most of 1 set of control arms and knuckles needs to be bought.

It works for me not being under so much pressure and cash flow is not one huge bill in one month.

Catastrophe failures do happen and need addressed as needed.

 

Bottle jack (hydraulic, in my case) + propane torch worked like a charm for me removing the oem lca bushings. No rust here, though.

 

That link posted above to Adventuretaco's writeup carries an interesting comment that may be relevant here. I'm starting from 0 background info, so cannot confirm this but it does point me toward OEM bushings.

turbodb December 23, 2021
Hi Gary, the harsher ride is most certainly due to the Whiteline bushings. Whenever polyurethane bushings are used to replace rubber, you're going to feel a lot more of the road, because the rubber does a lot to absorb the bumps. It's one of the main reasons that manufacturers use it, in fact. For some, the harsher/stiffer ride is actually desired - makes them feel like they are "more in touch" with the terrain; basically, the "drives so much better" bit that you've noticed. For others, it's just... harsh. Personally, I can see both sides - I prefer the feel of rubber;

 

Each. :-D Then add ball joints, and new rack bushings because you have to move it back anyway to get to the rear cam bolts, and should get swaybar bushings and links as well, the swaybar has to come out to gain room for the rack bushings. I wish I'd have done that.

I just finished this project this weekend and went for the control arms to spare the time and effort of pressing bushings in and out, which would have easily added 6 hours or more to the project. Unless you do something like this daily/weekly, you're going to have your hands full with an old truck just getting the tie rod ends and ball joints to come loose, and that is after you get the castle nuts off. Don't attempt this (or any suspension project) without a 1/2" drive impact ratchet on hand. Even with that I was almost a full day and a half getting everything apart. The reassembly only took around 6 hours but I'm nit picky when assembling - no dirty parts go back in, grease and/or locktite where appropriate, if I see scratches or rust prep it and paint it so it doesn't rust for a while.

Looking back on it if I'd have just went for bushings, I would still be working on it LOL

Be sure you only slightly tighten the cam bolts (holding the control arms in, alignment adjusters) while it's on the stands, then lower it to the ground before giving them the final torque of 96 ft/lbs. If you leave the steering rack in you'll need a 22mm crowfoot wrench to apply the final torque to the rear bolts.