Replace idler pulleys at 180k just based on miles?

As I'm going through general maintenance for my 2011 SR5 with 180k miles (spark plugs, clean MAF sensor and throttlebody, differential fluids, and so on), I noticed that my serpentine belt is getting some cracks. Nothing really terrible yet, but since I don't have records to show when it was last done (or if it was done; the spark plugs were original...), I figure I'd better add it to the list.

I've read several threads on here about changing the belt and/or pulleys, and I understand that when I take the belt loose I can check for play, gritty sounds, etc. Since I count on being able to drive the truck on a daily basis, though, I hate to pull it apart, find I need more parts, and either leave myself in a tight spot while I wait for an order to come in or put it back together, just to repeat the process next week. On the other hand, I like the $30-50 price tag of the belt compared to a $250 Gates belt and pulley kit if it isn't necessary to replace everything.

Given the miles, is it reasonable to assume that I should throw fresh parts in? Or do I need to just suck it up, take the belt loose, and give the idlers a whirl if I want to know? I know it isn't that hard, but time is really tight.

And while I'm in the neighborhood, does anything need done with a timing chain, or any other connected systems?

 

Timing chains should be fine as long as you didn't overheat the engine and as long as you do basic oil changes.

As far as the pully and bearing assemblies, I would replace the serpentine belt and at least spin them by hand. Hate to find yourself stranded on the side of the road because a 20 dollar bearing threw your new serpentine belt and shredded it.

Mine went around 180k and it happened to me. Looking back, I would have replaced the bearing and hub for the idler pulleys, slapped on a new serpentine belt. Then replaced the bearings in the old pulleys and take. Those and the old serpentine belt, put them in a little box and have an emergency roadside repair kit for them. IJS.

 

When the belt is off you'll be able to tell the condition of the pulleys. I replaced mine at 150k, they weren't shot but I wish I did it sooner. It really quieted down the engines mechanical noise. Look below the water pump pulley. Your WP isn't long for this world if it's the original.

 

I don't replace parts that don't need replaced.
Order the new belt, check the pulleys when installing the belt.
If you need pulleys, order them. You don't have to take the belt all the way off/out to replace the pulleys.

 

It's not about replacing parts unnecessarily, it's about finding parts that are going out before they cause addl damage, excessive tow charges and big repair bills. Water pumps and pulleys often get replaced around the OPs mileage. Wise to check them and making any needed repairs when you can control the process. Waiting till any of those items fail is a poor approach and a mistake that few make twice.

 

Yes.

 

Mine were all shot by 155k and how do you tell if your need the entire tensioner assembly?
If its flexing too easily and/or like mine at hard/full throttle it allows the belt to start slipping and you can actually smell it slip/burn.
I used OEM. I do preventative maintenance as hate breakdowns and its actually cheaper to do planned stuff. Up to you.

 

The pulley bearing will long before the tensioner. As a side note, the tensioners for our truck seem to be awfully expensive (at least for the four cylinder they are)

 

I would definitely replace them all, at 165k I found half of mine were shot even though they weren't making noise. If you really don't want to, it is very quick and easy to pop the belt off and spin the idlers to check the bearings.

A lot of people, myself included get a new tensioner and just swap the pulley over only (left hand thread) since the tensioner itself lasts longer and is a pain to replace. Now I keep the old belt, pulleys, and spare tensioner in the truck as emergency spares.

 

I did the same thing at almost the same mileage.