Replace just the tail pipe?

1996 Tacoma 3.4 extended cab, MT, 347K miles

I've noticed that the tailpipe on my rig is corroded right where the rear hanger user to be. I'd like to replace it myself, but have no such experience. It appears to be clamped on to the muffler, but not welded (see images below). How do detach the tailpipe from the muffler when it's that rusted?

Any words of advice or caution with this project? I appreciate it!

 

I'd be more worried about the frame

 

Hi, don’t worry about welding. I know you want to detach it but have you tried the exhaust putty? I’ve used it near my muffler and tailpipe join together for a small hole and it worked great. You can also but a type of sticky tape that literally just wraps around the exhaust and dries like concrete. Finding a clamp for an elbow like that may be hard so I would get the tape. Not very expensive just follow the instructions because you need to start the truck and let it get hot one you’ve applied it. Watch this: https://youtu.be/N-exs1iMLFU

Hopefully this helps.

 

oem muffler? id save it

 

Anyone know the PN and/or cost for the exhaust hanger assembly indicated by arrows below? I have the exact same problem as OP, hole downstream of the muffler, but I'm also missing a hanger. I'm less worried about the hole and more worried about what happens when my other hanger falls of

 

With all that rust, it might as well be welded. Likely need to just cut it all off. Easiest to just cut it off anyway. You can see here where I cut mine off where it interfered with my lift.


But as @Kwikvette said, I would be worried about your frame. Frame rust is a common issue (regionally), so this is one of those things that you should be comfortable is fine before beginning to address relatively minor things like the exhaust.

The basic check is to take a smallish hammer and tap around on the frame, paying close attention to the areas where the front of the leaf springs are mounted. You want to hear that nice bright sounding "ting". If you hear a more muted thud sound, that's a good sign your frame is rotted from the inside-out.

I hope that's not the case, but IMO better to find that out before you invest time/money into fixing other things.

 

They're desirable? Threw mine away a couple years ago

 

So I have two issues: the hole in the tailpipe and the missing hanger. I could go the cheap route and just use some something like

$12 FiberFix Heat Wrap Hardens Like Steel - For Exhaust Pipes and High Temp Repairs, 2" (1 Roll)

FiberFix Heat Wrap to solve the hole issue, but I still need some method of replacing the support offered by the missing hangar. Maybe the strap-and-U-bolt hanger like this, bolted in somehow.

When you say "cut it all off", where exactly do you mean? Also, where you cut it in the picture above might not work for me, as I have a camper shell and my dog hangs out in the bed a lot - I'd be concerned with carbon monoxide build up.

 

I don't think it'd be that big a deal. CO tends to diffuse pretty quickly, so unless you have the pipe sticking inside the bed, I don't think you'd have an issue.

But I can understand the hesitation.

As for the missing hanger, just get one of these

 

@jbrandt is right. You're not gonna separate the tailpipe from the muffler without cutting. Just use the universal patch and hanger products mentioned above. Also, if your tailpipe is that rusty, there is a good chance the flanges (or flange bolts) upstream (between cats and/or between rear cat and intermediate pipe) are about to fail, which may eventually require more involved exhaust work.

 

looks like a cheap aftermarket exhaust.. honestly I'd just replace the kit.

$103 Walker's Exhaust Quiet-Flow 47742 Exhaust Muffler Assembly

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-47742-Quiet-Flow-Stainless-Assembly/dp/B0096B0H1Q

 

I recently installed one of these, along with the intermediate pipe and gasket (flange was rusting away). While exhaust replacement is eventually inevitable in locations where rust happens, the issue is that once you start working on a rusty exhaust, there is the potential for a cascade effect, wherein whatever you want to mate the new exhaust component to is also likely rusted and in need of replacement. This gets expensive if cats are involved (should only need to be replaced for emissions purposes), and difficult to DIY unless you use OEM-style components or can weld. If you can weld, it may be possible to replace flanges or weld on a sleeve. Flange repair kits are another possibility, but a bit of a band-aid and tend to fit poorly on this application.

FWIW, the walker kit bolted up easily, the hangers aligned well, and it sounds nice and quiet. Tubing diameter seems a bit smaller than OEM, but there is no noticeable loss of power or anything like that. Longevity is yet to be determined, as it's only been a bit over a month since I installed it.

 

Ever been to a muffler shop and watched how they work?

They don't fiddle with the old exhaust. They lite up the gas wrench and cut the clamps or pipe to remove the old system.

Then the new system is installed with new clamps, parts and sometimes hangers.

OP could try cutting the clamp. The muffler may be willing to release the tailpipe with a bit of twisting and tapping with a hammer. Although, don't be too surprised if you end up going all the way to the CAT to install a CAT-back system.

The rubber hanger is fairly common part. You could probably purchase from Toyota or an auto store for a few bucks.

 

If the clamp has crimped the joint, even a little, then this isn't going to happen.

 

"the gas wrench"

 

AKA, the "hot wrench".

 

Theres ur part # . I just bought them at advanced auto

 

Went with the cheap fix for now and everything exhaust-wise is pretty solid. Thanks for the input everyone!

 

Had same problem in same place-used so much putty and tape and crap and never held.. Ended up cutting the pipe and splicing it back together.. welded all around and just to be sure put extreme heat putty all around the seams, wrapped with exhaust tape, then tightened it all down with 2 exhaust clamps. Works great.. if ya can't weld btw skip that step and fill in the connector gaps with more putty-then do the rest and should work-hope that helps