Replace my DRL's bulbs with LED's ones

they are, but its not just plugging in a light bulb....

 

Very very easy. U just plug in the plugs, install the little set screws, select the gasket for the lamp, and lock it into the housing. Then mount the little control box.

These are the only properly functioning (without hacks) LED DTRL I've seen that are equal to or brighter than stock, they look fantastic. Have a very factory appearance. It's a really great product. Hopefully w the test of time the control modules will last.

 

My LEDs work just fine, and I have no "hacks" or anything. All you need to do is wire in resistors within the positive and negative leads to the existing light socket. Which isn't a hack, considering LEDs take less power and trip out the computer.

 

Never said they were

 

Never said they were what?

I paid less then what you paid for just your turn signals, and I replaced every single light on my truck with LEDs (except headlights). I don't understand the point of $150 LED front turn signals but to each their own

 

no need to get all worked up. By hax I was referencing those who have done this by cutting wires at the flasher relay under the dash.

The point is they are stock brightness (or slightly brighter), yours are not. The thread isn't about the cost, or saving money, it's about the function.

 

Lmao you haven't seen worked up yet

All I'm saying, is I respect your truck and what you want to do with it, I was just saying that you don't need to spend $150 on JUST the front LEDs. I spent about $100 and I did turn signals front and back, parking lights, interior lights, license plate lights, reverse lights, third brake light, and resistors for turn signals for less then what you did just the fronts for. Just seems like a waste to me?

 

And mine are just as bright as stock. You just have to buy the right bulbs.

 

I would love to see a photo of your truck next to a stock one w correct camera exoposure.
Also, unlike your typical resistors, these resistors are not on all the time. (And they aren't t-tapped in either)

I'm glad ur happy w ur set up and that it saved you money.

 

I also went with the V-Led's V3 Triton ......... I've been running them for awhile now ...... front and rear. Very good quality. I've also had them in my Civic now for a couple of years ....... no issues.

These things will probably out last the vehicles.

Very bright, and instant on and off with the signals.

One thing I did improve ....... I did not like the engagement of the small round head screws ......... I bought some socket headed M3 x 3 and the engagement is much improved.

 

Hello members,

I'm considering upgrading the DRL on my 2010 Tacoma. Just want to see what's your take on the
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ower/633/1909/

Thanks,
Vic.

 

I have a 2K15 and put e-bay led's on the back and no problem, regular flash.
Put the led's in front and hyper-flash. Installed resistors and ground to frame. Blew fuses when I put the headlights on and tested all the other functions.

Took the truck to my local stereo install shop. They said the resistor should be grounded to the drl lead and the ground on the switch. OK I said while I was there they should clean up my mess.

After two hours, calling tech support then could not get the led's to work in the front. The tech support blames it on the computer.

I left with led's in the rear and stock 3157's in the front. Then someone says the resistors have polarity??? Never heard of that.

 

Regular resistors don't have polaity. Don't ground to frame, resistor should be installed across the 12V+ and the ground for the lamp.

 

How much time you gonna waste? Just get the VLED kit n be done w it.

 

Well there's your first problem. When you put rear LEDs in w/out resistors, you should have hyper flash. LEDs take significantly less power then a halogen bulb, and the computer will recognize that. Replacing the rear with LEDs and not having hyper flash would be flag #1 for me

 

Question for you guys who are running VLED Tritons in your DTRL, specifically the 2nd generation ones (larger control boxes with built in resistors) like photographed....

this is just for discussions sake.

when i installed the Triton kit into my Tundra, i noticed that while i ran this set up in my tacoma i was not using the built in resistors as the inline fuse was empty. when i installed into the tundra i had to install the 5 amp inline fuse to activate the built in resistor.

i figured the DTRL wiring of both the tacoma and the tundra would have been identical. if you guys are running fuses in your 2nd gen control boxes try it without the fuses you may be able to get away with not running the resistors up front. as mine worked fine without this fuse.

 

i have switchback leds in mine
Click for full-size image (1024 x 768)
my friend has a 2011 tacoma and not so plug and play, Vleds said he needed an adaptor it came with a red wire that needs to be tapped into the parking light circuit's positive wire. Can anyone tell me which one that is?

 

I would like to know if there is a aplication for this on the 2015 tacoma prerunner? Im sorry im a newbee

 

The headlights are exactly the same in the 2012-2015 Tacomas.