Replace Valve Cover Gaskets in my 3.4 - How?

You obviously have the newer version of the throttle body without a separate screw on IAC valve. Hopefully your idle improves. The lesson learned for anyone reading this is don't just spray a bunch of throttle body cleaner into the bore of the throttle body and let it drain down where it shouldn't be. If you idle doesn't improve, start looking for a vacuum leak.

 

Is this a leaky valve cover gasket?

 

Yes, it is.

 

I was wondering if it's okay to be riding around with it like that till Monday . Going to get it fixed Monday

 

Yeah, it's totally fine. Nothing about an oil like this is going to make anything explode. You will just smell some burning oil because it's dripping onto the exhaust manifold.

 

Okay thanks and yeah smells like burning oil and there's white smoke I guess the owner before me never changed it

 

With some more driving the idle speed has adjusted back to normal. All seems to now be well. But I've experienced some skipping/hesitation when accelerating. Yesterday afternoon I sprayed the oil residue areas with WD40 (I had no Gunk cleaner) and washed the engine with water. I'm hoping that once it all dries out the hesitation will dissipate.

With that said, I'm still running the original plug wires and other ignition parts. I did change the plugs somewhere around 100k miles and now clock 165k miles. If the hesitation continues I'll consider replacing ignition parts. Maybe it's time.

The worst part of replacing the valve cover seals is dealing with the maze of wiring and air lines. They're everywhere, and draped over the top of the engine. But this really is an amazing engine with the 4 overhead cams and 24 valves. I just wish it had a little more torque and better gas mileage.

I do appreciate the help given to me by the members of this forum. I bought this truck new and have enjoyed maintaining it to extend its life. I figure in a few more years it may be time to get a new truck.

 

There are 6 bolts that hold the bed down,
Probably 8 plastic wire clicks along the back
Rear light assembly screws
Screws that hold the filler gas flange inside the gas cover area,
You need a hoist or 4 people to lift bed off,
If you set the bed down DO NOT rest it on the rear mud flap area because there is no support there
and the rear quarter can cave in.

The bed has to be set on its head if you set the bed down.

 

i was thinking of flipping it upside down to access the bottom and re-undercoat it , fix some small damages found in the wheel wells, peeling, chipping paint, possible corrosion under it on the edges of the fender liners
i feel its going to be one massive project with headaches galore
also removing fuel tank completely, and see what is going on with that on top

...
putting it all back on properly will probably be even worse of an adventure
be prepared TW!!!

 

So it is skipping during acceleration, like it is misfiring. I see nothing that is not connected. What’s a good brand of wires, plugs and other needed parts?

Update: So I come back to you with my head hanging in shame. I gave it one last check before I started buying parts and I found plug wire #1 wasn't fully seated on the plug. When I pushed down and felt the little click I was optimistic the problem was solved, and it is. The little engine that could is once again running smoothly.

Thanks again for the help. I hope the other dude gets his bed removed, cleaned up and replaced.