1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Replaced Lower Ball joint: damaged tie rod? over torqued bolts?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jjsul, Jun 5, 2016.

  1. Jun 5, 2016 at 7:13 AM
    #1
    jjsul

    jjsul [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2015
    Member:
    #146395
    Messages:
    1,648
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    New Hampshire
    Vehicle:
    95.5 OME
    So I relpaced both passenger and drivers side LBJ's yesterday. the drivers side boot was cracked and leaking grease. I kept hearing that if you're replacing one, just do both, so I did.

    I'm looking for input / advice on two things.
    My first question is about the 4 bolts that attach the spindle and LBJ. If I over torqued these, should I replace them and torque them no higher than spec? I have no idea how tight I made them. My torque wrench turned out to be broken so I tightened everything by hand. Probably above the 59 ft/lb for four bolts, above? 103 ft/lb for the lbj castle nut, and above? 67 ft/lb for the tie rod castle nut.


    My second question is regarding the outter tie rods. I was banging the LBJ to knock the tie rod loose and I also struck the tie rod bolt as well. i.e. I struck down on the bolt portion of the tie rod to push it downwards, out of the LBJ. Did I ruin the tie rods? I did this on both sides. I checked both tie rods for play after I knocked them loose, and both seemed fine, no play along its axis. I do think I smooshed the threads a bit, the castle nut was hard to get onto the bolt. Both bolts of the tie rod were spinning when I was putting on the castle nut. I had to squeeze the tie rod to the LBJ with a c clamp to give it enough pressure so the bolt wouldn't spin while i was threading the nut. Does that make sense?

    Thank you all!
     
  2. Jun 5, 2016 at 8:25 AM
    #2
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2010
    Member:
    #45512
    Messages:
    2,326
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    1998 Limited
    Buy eight LBJ bolts from the dealer.

    Replace one bolt on one side but do not torque it down.

    Then replace the next bolt, and the third, and finally the fourth.

    Now torque the four bolts to the specification.

    Repeat the process for the other side. :)
     
  3. Jun 5, 2016 at 8:30 AM
    #3
    jjsul

    jjsul [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2015
    Member:
    #146395
    Messages:
    1,648
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    New Hampshire
    Vehicle:
    95.5 OME
    I'll get new bolts on Monday presuming they have em in stock.

    Should I not be worried about over torquing the tie rod and lbj castle nuts? I was reading about over torquing bolts and how it stretches. My thought was that I could have stretched the bolts that are part of the actuall ball joint and tie rod assemblies.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2016
  4. Jun 7, 2016 at 5:42 PM
    #4
    jjsul

    jjsul [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2015
    Member:
    #146395
    Messages:
    1,648
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    New Hampshire
    Vehicle:
    95.5 OME
    I installed the 4 new bolts for each side. I checked the torque on one tie rod castle nut and it was def over torqued and I backed it off a bit.

    Do you all think I should be worried about the over torqued tie rod or ball joint stem?
     
  5. Jun 8, 2016 at 7:28 AM
    #5
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2011
    Member:
    #67982
    Messages:
    3,807
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rick
    Folsom, CA
    Vehicle:
    99 Tacoma EC 4x4 2.7L Auto
    Bilsteins, OME 881's, 3-leaf AAL, Detroit TruTrac, Tundra brake swap, Michelin LTX AT2, Tranny skidplate, TC skidplate, CBI rear bumper, TG sliders, UltraGauge, PowerTank, Reverse Camera
    You are correct, you should be concerned about proper torque (over or under).
    The Haynes manual has all the proper torque values for the critical nuts and bolts. If you don't have one, GET ONE.
    Also get a new torque wrench, if you haven't already. Re-torque all those critical (ie - brake, suspension, steering) nuts/bolts that you have guessed at, especially the ones you 'backed off', your life may depend on it.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top