Replaced MAF now it won't idle right

Exactly as title says, replaced the MAF and now it won't idle right... I've replaced them before, but it would always idle right... Ideas?

 

If thats the only thing you touched, its either bad MAF or its not sitting right and leaking air.

 

Would leaking air at the MAF make it idle at like half idle similar to a vacuum leak?

 

If you jacked with the throttle body at all, like I did once trying to clean it. You will have to have an "idle relearn" by the dealer. Otherwise could be air leak, bad sensor especially if you. Touch the metal part of it at all, even finger prints can jack with it. Or it is after market and it isn't registering. Could e a pipe
Of things.... suggest going to parts store to have them scan it to see what code it throws.

 

Btw... does the improper idle you describe acting like low rpm rev from
About 500 then up to 1000/1200 and back down? If so see above comment about idle relearn.

 

How low are you idling?

 

It stays at like 500.... And it isn't idle relearn, I've dealt with that before...

 

Anytime I've removed my MAF sensor to clean it, my truck always idles funny the first one or two times I start it up until I drive it for awhile. Goes back to normal after that.

 

Something else to think about:

 

Have you tried disconnecting the maf while the truck is running for a few seconds and then reconnecting it?

 

So I put the old MAF on and reset the idle. It was not in limp mode this morning, but I've yet to drive it much. Got it to 4k rpms around the block at my office and it ran normal.

 

Bad o-ring, bad MAF, incorrect MAF. Where did you get it from, and why did you replace it?

 

X2 why did you replace it, if the old one works?

 

I had some trouble with this when I installed my cold air intake. It currently idles lower than stock due to the better flow but when I first installed I put it in backwards...idiot mistake, and the truck would run for 5 seconds and die. Might want to double check the orientation of said sensor just to make sure. Did you modify intake or just swap sensors? Before the K&N it held @900-1000, now it runs @700-800 but it's constant.

 

It had the bad MAF code, have to get an emissions test by Friday, it would crank at normal rpm, then drop to like 500-400. This morning with it cold, I cranked it and let it learn to idle for 35 mins, it sat at the normal 800-900 range, then I drove it around the block and it let me get to 4k rpms where before it wouldn't go over 1900. Had the intake for almost a year now...

 

I will update this afternoon after I drive it

 

Did you dosconnect the battery before installing the new maf sensor?

 

After I installed it, then cranked it after having the battery unplugged about 9 hours later after work.

 

So pretty much because your battery had been disconnected for so long, and the ecu was relearning parameters, yes?

 

Is that how it works? If so I must've pulled off too soon