Replacement AC Compressor, most cost effective.

Typically the method manufacturers reccomend when changing just the compressor is to measure the oil from the old compressor and put the same amount in the new compressor.

My reccomendation would be take it to a shop and have them evac it and put the correct amount of refrigerant back in it.

 

The other thing, check the Toyota OEM parts gateway. They have the A/C compressor for $311 list, $243 from my local dealer. Probably the same Denso you are getting elsewhere for more $. Although this looks to not include the clutch. So that would be ~ another $100. In my experience OEM is the only way to go for these things.

2010 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab 4.0L A/T 4WD A/c compressor. Repair, air, conditioning - 8832004060 | DARCARS Toyota, Silver Spring MD

 

When I pull my old compressor and try dump the oil, it's only less then 1 oz plus it's green. The new one has 4oz.

So far it getting cold now, if I check with the tool it stay on green part gouge between 40 to 45 psi.

Sorry for who's ever start this thread not trying to stealing the thunder.

 

Unlike a lot of people, I admit I do not know everything. I ask. I'm also interested in how many have had to purchase a new compressor. Our vendors don't always give use the best pricing, have to shop around.

 

I check to toyota Florida the price about the same and it's Denso too, so it's OEM I spend $350 including clutch.

 

The green in the oil is dye for finding leaks, if you only got 1 oz out of the old compressor and the new one had 4oz so your 2-3 oz over on oil which may affect performance.

Also you didn't say if you pulled a vacuum on the system before you charged it, if you didn't there will be air and moisture in the system which will also affect performance.

You need a gauge on the high side to see the whole picture of what's going on, you can not diagnose or properly charge an A/C system using only low side pressure.

 

Have to recheck our local dealer. I thought my parts guy got a quote of close to $ 400.00. Belive he said the clutch and compressor come separet.

 

you can get a clutch assembly separate

But I'm pretty sure a compressor unit is always going to come supplied with a clutch

Around 400 for oem is a decent deal, that's what I would get

 

My guess the old compressor only 1oz left bc before I take it out, I'm discard the freon from low pressure valve, if not do I need take it out again?

How to pulled vacuum on system before I recharge it?

Definitely I need double gauge pressure both side huh.

 

My A/C has been trouble free for the life of the vehicle so I haven't really looked into this very much. But this thread got me looking... and I did not find an A/C sticker under the hood with the charge weight and other such info. I don't understand that as all vehicles come with that, AFAIK. Maybe it fell off? Anyone else not have a sticker?

 

In 2016 on a hot day upon startup my AC made a loud squelching sound and stopped working. After brief research I decided to rebuild myself. Went to a shop and they evacuated the refrigerant for free. I disassembled everything under the hood (did not do evaporator under dash due to access) and cleaned out the lines. I bought new o-rings, expansion valve, condenser and compressor. I went UAC for the big parts and (knock on wood) everything’s been working well for 6 years.

$183 UAC CO 10835C A/C Compressor , grey

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJXIV0U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

The oil travels through the system, it doesn't all stay in the compressor so when removing a compressor it will never have a full charge of oil in it.
I wouldn't worry about being overcharged on oil unless there's an issue after the system is properly evacuated and recharged.

You need a vacuum pump and a gauge set or a na A/C recovery machine to pull a proper vacuum on the system and get the air and moisture out before charging with refrigerant.

Yes you can not properly diagnose or charge an A/C system without a manifold gauge set, the best way to charge a system is with an A/C machine but you can typically get close enough without (never add more refrigerant than the label under the hood specifies).
The important part is that a vacuum is pulled on the system prior to charging to purge the system of air and moisture.

 

Thank you Dm93 for the guide and help, I appreciate it!
So far my AC getting colder even outside reach over 90°f may be I need to clean more on condenser.

 

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...meT0yMDEwJnQ9eC1ydW5uZXImZT00LTBsLXY2LWdhcw==

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...meT0yMDEwJnQ9eC1ydW5uZXImZT00LTBsLXY2LWdhcw==

$328.65 for clutch assembly and compressor from Conicelli (not including shipping). If I had it shipped to NH, it would add $14.41.

 

So is everyone finding they have the Denso compressor? That would make me possibly go with the Delphi? If it's a direct fit. I'm having the one of the shop's I do transmissions and dif work for, do the charge and flush, if needed. I don't even have a set of gauges any more, probably wouldn't remember any way.

 

I THINK the Delphi and Denso is the same compressor. Even if you look at the Conicelli page I linked above, in one of the close-ups, you can clearly see the Delphi sticker on it. I BELIEVE Delphi is primarily a marketer/distributor now rather than a full on manufacturer since Borg Warner bought the entity out.

 

Don't know if it's my tablet, I couldn't get the Conicelli web site to work, keeps coming up, Page Error. I'll try it on something else later. Thanks for your time.

 

Hi Dm93, I just found out on label on radiator cover that the system only use HFC134 freon, any big differences between R134a with HFC134?
Definitely I'm over recharge it, it said 1.39lb freon. Thank you

 

HFC134 and 134a mean the same thing, the technical name for it is actually HFC 134a.
Most people call it Freon which is actually DuPont's trademark name for it.