Replacement knuckles for 1st gen taco.

Just take your time. Making sure the drill bit is square before drilling. They are too difficult

 

Aren't, that is

 

10-4. I did button it all back up to move the truck so I can get my 87 yota out to get to work. It'll have to hold till this coming weekend. Hopefully I'll have decent weather at least. And yes the truck rolled around the yard to another spot without issue. I had to cut the stupid swaybar link to replace the cv and that piece of crap is not going back on.

 

Take the time to read the link is post #2, very good information about what torque value for lower ball joint bolts. It all depends on which bolts you have.

 

I don't know if Toyota changed the spec on the black bolts with washer but from experience, 59ftlbs for these bolts is too much.

OP, you should be able to get the sheared bolts out without too much trouble. The blind holes on the outer side of the spindle can be a pain but stubbornness usually wins.

 

Apparently the bolts with washers are a lighter spec. I was using Chinese bolts that came with the balljoint. It was obvious the originals that I reused originally when I did the balljoints were stretched this time around doing the cv

 

Take the helicoils and throw in the trash before you begin. Those will come right out w/ left handed drillbit. I don't see anti seize on them bolts either. If I was there I would rub some in your hair for not using it.

 

I felt that way about helicoils. Anti seize on a bolt that many call for locktight on? You don't see the lock tight on the bolt?

 

I felt that way about helicoils. Anti seize on a bolt that many call for locktight on?

 

OP doesn't appear to be running the dust protectors so if it were me I'd be using 8 new ARP bolts and torque to 59 ft lbs.

If he were running the dust protectors, the only bolt to use with them is the black w/washer and torque to 37. No more, no less. 37 ft lbs.

As for threadlocker, I wouldn't use any on the LBJs but that's just me. Also trusting helicoils and LBJ bolts? Hell no. I'm not that lucky.

 

Interesting that 2 people say not to use the helicoils for lbjs. How else would a person rethread those knuckle holes?

 

Quality hardware is Def on the list, however, the size may be different if I have to retain. Scared of helicoils in this spot especially

 

I am interested in hearing what area51 says. I need to do one of mine as well. Thinking about drilling a slightly larger hole in both LBJ and knuckle and using a slightly larger bolt. Tapping the knuckle hole of course and going really slow as it is cast iron

 

I put Never Seize on all my Bolts

I only torque Engine Internals and Bolts over 100 Foot Pounds

 

no cast iron on the knuckle. Forged steel.

 

I thought it was cast iron. My bad. Why does forged steel strip so easily?

 

So my take on the LBJs/knuckles - I'm in CA and rust isn't an issue with those bolts, I would never toss antiseize on them. I also wouldn't tap it simply because in my mind its a critical safety item. I'm financially cool with replacing the entire knuckle if the threads were fragged. In the end, it's what you can live with bud. Everyone has to make their own call.

It's like the dust protector. Most could care less it seems. Some do. Choices...

Cheers.

 

Area51 - that is sound advice. Anyone have a spare set of knuckles in decent shape??

I'm not financially cool as I used to be so gotta try and save a few (lots) bucks

 

Here everything rusts even new steel in the Rack if not treated

It comes down to location !

It is always a personal choice .

I come up with interesting ways to fix my things.

 

Might want to check the market place, Dan (@drr) just posted a thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2002-4x4-trd-xtracab-lunar-mist-partout.786081/

Another to check in with is @Tour991 - he might have something.

Beyond that, local salvage yards would be my first choice.