Replacement of HVAC Blower Motor Resistor

Hey so I replaced my resistor that plus into the blower motor itself and the blower motor itself completely, but since the new one has been installed the ac turns on now on all settings but nothing comes through the vent, any help on troubleshooting this?

 

Blocked cabin filter? Can you hear the blower motor turning?

 

I removed the filter to see if maybe that would help but still nothing and also yes I can hear the blower turning I’m going to try and put my old blower back in and see if maybe the new one is just defective.

 

update I tried installing new fuses and now the fam won’t stop blowing even without a key in the ignition taking it to an ac shop in the morning to see if they can fix it.

 

Did you replace the connector for the resistor? If so you may have the connector wired incorrectly.

 

This may be common knowledge at this point but I'll be honest, I'm not reading all 9 pages of this thread to confirm...

But I've noticed the resistor never really burns out. At least not in my case the last 5 or so times I've had to deal with this. From what I've seen, the pin on the main power wire appears to take a LOT of amperage and gets really hot and the plug discolors a little bit. The contact point in the plug receptacle eventually gets pushed down to the point it no longer makes contact with the pin properly. I suspect, this leads to a bit of an "arcing" situation and that might be why the plug plastic is a bit discolored. In any event, you just bend the contact back into place, clean it up a bit with some alcohol, and plug it right back in. Seems to work every single time. Works like that for another year or two and then you might have to do it again but that's just because it's a poor design from Toyota. I've been doing that for the last 12 years I've owned this truck.

 

All it would take is a pigtail to get the connector away from the resistor. Same thing happens with the seat heater modules. The connectors would normally be fine at the designed current but immediate proximity to a heat source(resistor or FET) is causing both to overheat/expand/start arcing… fail. I’ve scraped the insulation off a short section of the nichrome trace to the pin at fault on a new module and soldered a coil of #12 copper to see if that will suffice as a heat sink but haven’t got around to installing it. I’ve been using only low or high and avoiding the medium and medium-high settings that generate the most I2*R heat and it’s been working fine but I really prefer those middle settings.

 

I'm interested to see how that does for you. I actually soldered on a new plug/harness a long time ago before I realized it was just the pin bending down. It's irritating to have to repeat work but it's not all that hard and doesn't cost anything so I can't really complain. If that's the biggest issue this truck has after 12 years/185k miles then I feel like I've got it pretty good.

 

I can’t find an answer to my situation. All speeds and hot/cold worked fine and then one day quit.

I replaced the cabin air filter. Nothing.
I replaced the blower motor. Nothing.
I replaced the resistor and connector. Nothing
i replaced the clip into the blower and bingo! All speeds work on the blower motor again!

BUT the airflow out of my vents is just a trickle. I have no ideas what to look at next.

So to summarize. Resistor, connectors and clips, cabin air filter and blower motor are all newly replaced. The motor adjusts speeds as it should from low to high but there almost no airflow out of the vents.
Any help is appreciated!

 

When you change the air placement to feet, dash, etc...does it actually move around to the appropriate places? A lot of times the diverter is stuck or something and it won't change to the right vents properly.

 

I see you have an '09 with HVAC components supplied by GM/Delphi and all the poor mfg tolerances therein. For what it's worth, 1st gen Colorado/Canyon also have issues with burnt connectors here.

 

I have switched it from dash to windshield and it works, still at a low trickle. I removed the glove box today and ran the blower with the filter removed and the speeds change correctly, but there doesn't seem to be much air being pulled in. Absolutely terrified that I need to clean out the evap core. Watched videos and nearly cried...I hate removing dash pieces. I'm certainly not interested in the paying someone $100/hr to take apart the dash in order to conduct a 5 minute diagnosis and clean up.

 

Interesting. That's about the only thing I can complain about on the truck and it's supplied by GM? Yeah, that actually makes sense.

Prior to your blower motor dying, did it blow out the vents properly? Meaning, if it was working properly before it quit, your evap core isn't the issue. Because it didn't get clogged between then and now while you weren't using it.
Try removing the air filter and leave the little "door" open. Turn on the air and stick your hand where the filter would normally be. Can you feel it moving a bunch of air? Validate that FIRST before proceeding further. That will at least validate the blower is blowing the right direction and it's intake is unobstructed.

 

[\Quote]Prior to your blower motor dying, did it blow out the vents properly? Meaning, if it was working properly before it quit, your evap core isn't the issue. Because it didn't get clogged between then and now while you weren't using it.
Try removing the air filter and leave the little "door" open. Turn on the air and stick your hand where the filter would normally be. Can you feel it moving a bunch of air? Validate that FIRST before proceeding further. That will at least validate the blower is blowing the right direction and it's intake is unobstructed.[/QUOTE]

it did work fine. Ice cold, pushing air hard. Once it quit there was a few months over fall and winter that I didn’t use it and then worked on replacing all the parts by end of winter. Now it’s 95 degrees and I want it to push cold air again!

recap: all parts are newly replaced, air only comes out of vents at low trickle, blower does in crease in speed and sound properly.

I am attaching a link to Imgur of video I just shot. I don’t know how to post video on this board yet.

https://imgur.com/gallery/c5ZuMYP

 

it did work fine. Ice cold, pushing air hard. Once it quit there was a few months over fall and winter that I didn’t use it and then worked on replacing all the parts by end of winter. Now it’s 95 degrees and I want it to push cold air again!

recap: all parts are newly replaced, air only comes out of vents at low trickle, blower does in crease in speed and sound properly.

I am attaching a link to Imgur of video I just shot. I don’t know how to post video on this board yet.

https://imgur.com/gallery/c5ZuMYP[/QUOTE]
Have you had a look under the engine cowling? The cabin air intake is on the passenger side. Sometimes rodents make free of the space.

 

Have you had a look under the engine cowling? The cabin air intake is on the passenger side. Sometimes rodents make free of the space.[/QUOTE]

I just looked under and it seems fine. I don’t know if the door in there is supposed to open but I pushed it open and now I need to pull the blower motor out to get it.
I suppose it could just be a crappy blower motor. I think I spent $50 on it.

 

I just looked under and it seems fine. I don’t know if the door in there is supposed to open but I pushed it open and now I need to pull the blower motor out to get it.
I suppose it could just be a crappy blower motor. I think I spent $50 on it.[/QUOTE]
That door is what closes when you use recirc.

 

Possibly... the polarity somehow got switched on the leads to the motor. A squirrel cage blower turning backward does exactly that. Or just the wrong motor.

 

That door is what closes when you use recirc.[/QUOTE]
I started this thread 13 years ago, I also experienced another small issue, there was some loose insulation inside the vent ducting. I removed the loose insulation with a pair of locking long nosed forceps a small scissors to cut off all I could THROUGH THE VENT GRILL. I had to do this a couple of times as it seemed to work loose again. In my case I could hear it fluttering in the vent when the air was on high. Just a thought

 

So the two "low" blower settings in my truck don't work.

The two high settings work & my AC works as well, but the airflow on the two low settings is non-existent. I know the switch works properly because the AC light comes on. Going off of what I've read here so far. I'm guessing it's new resistor time?