Replacing ABS actuator/ECU

You have the built in all together electric boosted master cylinder / abs / traction control unit(05-08 trucks optioned with VSC - very rare, or 09+ TRD off road 4x4 trucks), and the Vacuum assisted master with separate ABS/Traction control unit (all other trucks)

 

2014 SR5 4x4 6spd manual w/o tow package. I have VSC/TRAC, no ATRAC.

 

you will need techstream to bleed and actuate it. You can get a bootleg version to do it for it about $30.

 

In the repair manuals I've found it just says to perform a zero point calibration, which I can do with the check wire.

 

sure, but the hard part is purging the air from the module.

 

Well I got my replacement actuator installed and got techstream setup on my computer to do the brake bleed & sensor reset/calibration. Everything went well but when I went to do the test drive, I get the same issue as before. C1445 Vehicle driven without steering sensor initialized and then speedo and ABS cutoff over 62mph and odometer stops working. 2 more codes are C1411/12 for both rear speed sensor performance. The rear ABS harness checked out fine with a multimeter but just ordered a replacement to try. Any other ideas?

 

Initialize the steering sensor

And

Look at the rear wheel speed sensors with a labscope

 

Now that you have techstream, clear the codes then go into the test mode and watch the sequence the errors populate. If c1445 is first then initialize the steering sensor first and reset. I would recommend tackling the errors in sequence one at a time. Using the test mode you can see the sensor tolerance and settings. You can also easily initialize and zero sensors there. Just be careful that the steering is centered and you have level ground when you recalibrate these sensors.

 

I've been monitoring the rear speed sensor data while driving with my bluetooth OBDlink and don't see any issues. Techstream does not show any codes that OBDlink has not.

I just tried doing the zero-point again and I noticed with the steering wheel straight and wheels straight, the steering sensor shows 10.5 degrees. After the reset and calibration it's reading the same. When I got my alignment done at Firestone, all these issues started after they did a zero point. My wheel was off-centered after an offroad trip and the tech said it was something like 27 degrees. Do I need to take the wheel off and re-center the sensor or something? Or maybe a bad steering sensor?

 

I think you are mixing terms. I have never used the OBD link but I would be stunned if it displayed half the real time data that techstream shows on the test mode.

regardless, I don’t recall off-hand if the yaw and pitch zero point calibration has anything to do with the steering wheel sensor. Do you have access to the FSM? Are you on a bootleg techstream or full version?

 

Bootleg and I have the Toyota addon for OBDlink that shows all the sensors but can't do calibration.

Is there a separate procedure to reset the steering sensor? I thought that was the zero-point.

 

I don’t want to steer you wrong. Let me do some reading.

Edit: No pun intended

 

I think I found my issue. Guessing I reinstalled the rear axles in the wrong sides when I did the wheel bearings since the hub assemblies are side specific.

 

Funny you mention this. I clocked both sensors to the rear when clearing for shock relocate and other things. I figured they were just 360 since the mount is symmetric. WRONG!! It was so frustrating the Hall effect sensor integrated into the bearing must maintain its factory orientation. This crushed me and two techs for quite some time until real time tech stream data showed the truth.

 

I had actually checked wheel speed and direction with my OBDlink tool when I first started getting the rear wheel speed sensor codes. It was showing all wheels going same direction and speed was consistent between them, so I thought it was something else. I've been chasing this on and off for 2 months now and have a small collection of spare parts that weren't broke now.

 

I was thinking I could just flip the axles side to side but then I thought about the brake backer plates. How should I go about fixing it? Can I swap the backer plates somehow without having to redo the bearings?

I had a friend press them on at his shop and I guess he mixed them up.

 

I have discs now so those were gone for me, but I think they will have to be redone since you have the intention for the wheel cylinder in them.

 

Damn now I’m tempted to try this.

 

You can run 2 if the same bearings though. It’s only the position at least others have been doing so. I’m running into c1411 code for right rear but it had a new sensor and now is one for a working truck. I DO have two LH bearings so it orientated it forward on the rig t but the correct spot for the bearing. but still wondering if that’s the issue. Any idea of older 06-08 would be any different from 12-15?

 

I personally don’t know, but I would confirm by part numbers. If the rear bearings are the same number then there shouldn’t be any difference since the sensor is integrated into the bearing. It is the exact same knuckle and ABS sensor so it would come down to ABS ECU coding of the Hall effect sensor in the bearing. That is why I think it is the same as long as the bearing is the same bearing.