Replacing ABS actuator/ECU

Yeah LH and RH are pretty much the same as far I as see and others have used them. But the sensor is on the opposite side so if you put the LH on the RH it's in the right spot per se but instead of rear it's in the front. But also curious if that only mattered on older trucks and not newer trucks. The shop that did the bearing was running the same on both sides with no issues. (i accidentally ordered 2 LH wheel bearings) but instead of swapping out due to timing we installed both and picked up a new wheel sensor to match. Besides being flopped should be the same.

I did see some other guys comment about having the same code after changing wheel bearings on stock setup with the right orientation so curious what it ended up being for them.

 

Thanks to bradplaysguitar for the helpful nugget about how to get the harness plug loose. The tip about the locking piece being moved was the key!

Swapped out ABS ECM for one that had matching part number (I left the ABS pump in my truck, just the four screws and the harness undone). This solved the ABS and BRAKE lights being on from my silly reverse jump activities.

Thanks all!

 

In another thread, I read that the electrical contacts of the module connector can become slightly corroded, and lightly and carefully cleaning the male and female sides may restore its function. However, the contacts are very fragile so this needs to be done with great care.

 

This here is brilliant! Followed instructions to the T and it worked. ABS light went off and breaks are solid again. The key is to match your replacement ABS ECU with the exact serial # match on the old one. No need to program or hassle with break lines etc. Top notch!