Replacing CV Axles - one or both

When you guys are replacing your cv axles are you doing both at the same time….?

I’m getting a vibration, not constantly but I definitely feel it now and then. Went under the truck and grabbed the drivers side cv axle and it seems to have a bit too much play (in/out AND up/down). So, while I’m in there changing out the needle bearing for an ECGS bushing I’m considering replacing the axle(s) as well.

Installed Eibach Pro Stage 2 with OME upper control arms maybe two months ago. Yes the vibration was there prior but I it seems like I feel it more often now. Unfortunately I created a small tear in the outer boot when I did that upgrade. Not a lot of grease was lost - used Shoe Goo to reseal the boot and it does NOT leak. That job pushed my mechanical abilities (I’m a carpenter not a mechanic lol) so I’m not too confident about taking an axle apart for the reboot process.

What would you do..?

Carrier bearing and UJoints have no play at all.

Appreciate your thoughts and advice - Thanks!

2009 SR5 Access Cab 4x4
136k miles

Toyota CV Axle $308 per
ECGS bushing & tool $175

 

I did both

 

If your boots are not leaking. I'd leave it alone.
The needle bearing doesn't usually do any damage to the CV stub.

I would recommend a new axle seal when you do the bushing.

If you want, you can replace the axle that "was" leaking.
But aftermarket is not so good. The boot's don't last and most are inferior in quality.

 

I'm not convinced that your vibration has anything to do with the CV axle based on what Ive read to far, but if at 136k if they are original, and you truly think that is your culprit it doesn't hurt to do both. I would just do the one that's suspect is a problem if I were in your shoes, but more diagnosing before Id throw a $300 oem axle at it and cross my fingers thats it. Doesn't sound like you're beating on it hard and breaking axles often, so unlikely you would benefit from keeping a spare around.

When I have needed and axle, I have run whatever oem reman, parts store/napa axle, or used axle I can get my hands on from a TW member for around $100. I can buy three of those for the price a new OEM. Never really had the issues with boots that plague others.

 

I would do only the ECGS bearing, then give it a test drive. I had the same play in the drivers side axel, I really don't think your axle needs replaced, unless you know otherwise.

A broken boot, that was repaired, is not going to give the symptoms you speak about. A dry cv joint is going to give you a grinding sound/feeling on turns in one direction if just one cv joint is dry/damaged.

 

I always comment on threads like this here because my experience with cheap autoparts store CV's on lifted Tacoma's goes back a long time. My recommendation is, regardless of when you decide to change the CV, go with the more expensive OEM Toyota option. The auto parts store's lower price and lifetime warranty is tempting, but I was changing out the CV's every year due to their boots tearing every year on my lifted 1st gen in addition to there being a vibration present at highway speeds. It all went away when I ponied back up for OEM Toyota CV's.

 

Me too, same recommendation.

 

so according to you your axles are fine then...

 

in all likelihood yes they probably are. I was concerned that the needle bearing had damaged the spline on the drivers side (same side where I tore the boot). And if I was to do one, weather I’d be better off to do both at the same time.

 

@thomasburk @TacoTuesday1 @DesertRatliff @Littles @TnShooter @The_Hybrid_Hunter
Appreciate you guys - Thanks!!

 

I’m on the ECGS website now. I’m going to just pull the drivers side axle and replace the needle bearing and axle seal. Hopefully won’t have to do this twice…. lol

thanks again for your thoughts and advice. Best forum on the interweb - no doubt about it.

 

1. when you have a needle bearing, you put an ECGS bushing.

2. when you have an axle, you run it.
If the boot has torn and been driven through sand for 500 miles enough to make it start doing a dramatic clicking very often, then the joint is worn, and at minimum the affected joint needs replacing.
If that is not the case, then you run it.

If a boot begins to tear, you replace the boot.

If an axle is bad, then parts or that axle is replaced. There is no mention here of an axle being bad.
Joints being bad make clicking noises.

 

Order(s) are in….
$172 for bushing/axle seal/tool
$40 toyota reboot kit

the wife will certainly like hearing I spent $210 as opposed to $800+

 

@TacoTuesday1
very cool summary - thanks. Grabbed a reboot kit, I’ll try to get that spider bearing out when I pull the axle to do the ECGS bushing. If I can’t get it off the shaft at least I can repack it with new grease before she goes back in.

 

The tool is worth every penny.
It seats both the bushing and seal to the correct depth.