Replacing Hitch Receiver??

You shouldn't lose any capacity with an aftermarket hitch: a Class IV is a "Class IV". It's a rating/specification. (I'm assuming that you have the factory towing package that includes the Class IV hitch) Just get one from a reputable supplier: Reese, Draw-Tite, etc. and it's not an issue. It's a good bet that one of the major manufacturers supplies them to Toyota. My 2014 has factory Class IV hitch, but it wasn't as bad as yours when I got it. I wire brushed it, painted it with two coats Rustoleum satin and Fluid-Filmed the crap out of it, especially all of the mounting bolts and nuts. I'm assuming the frame is pre-threaded to accommodate a hitch installation. Want to preserve that in case it ever has to be removed.

 

R&R with a NOS takeoff of aftermarket as suggested. The towing capacity of that hitch is compromised with that amount of rust deterioration. Don’t let cost talk yourself out of a safety issue, just because you can doesn’t mean you should.

 

Alright, I learned a lot along the way...as well as poor planning on my part.

1. You can't just take off the bumper and replace the hitch...the support arms for the bumper are part of the OEM hitch.



Thus putting my Saturday project on HOLD. Had to order inner support arms for LH and RH, part no. 52015-04010, 52016-04010.

Also, the new etrailer hitch will require me to take off the hitch support brackets... hoping they are not spot welded on, but may have to hammer them off due to corrosion.


Hoping this helps anyone that runs into a similar issue....make sure you have all the parts before you start taking things apart. I almost wasn't able to get the bumper back on because the wings were corroded. had to bent them back a bit. (no towing for the time being)

 

You must not of read too much into my original post (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/replacing-hitch-receiver.747313/#post-26611972) as this was touched on there, including Class III hitches using a different mounting configuration/brackets. Nonetheless, glad to see you took action against that rust cancer riddled hitch.

As far as the L-brackets attaching between the frame and hitch goes, they are simply secured via bolts and NOT spot welded on (I took mine off and had them powder coated).

 

Ha yes, looking back you did mention it. I browsed through the links. I did find some OEM Class IV hitches for $140 at the dealership. I thought about it, but considering I already got my etrailer Class III, and support arms on the way, it wasn't worth it. I'm not gonna be towing anything beyond 5000 lbs anyway. My boat only weights about 3500 fully loaded and that's most important.

 

$140 for a OEM Class IV hitch?!?! Is this a typo? Please share links/info on where this is at.

 

i believe class 3 is good up to 8k lbs which is well north of the towing capacity of even a V6 taco.

 

Don't blame or beat yourself up here. (so called "poor planning", etc.) No way you could have anticipated all of this IMO. I've been under my truck many times back there and didn't realize that extra component was there either (linking the hitch to the bumper) and I have installed hitches myself on several vehicles... All were direct modular bolt-on to the frame using pre-threaded frame mounting points/holes, not connected to any other component of the vehicle other than the frame. I learned something here too thanks to your post. Kind of a "hybrid" system on these trucks from the looks of it. (side brackets, etc) What's important is to get the job done correctly and then go on down the road towing for the next many years with the peace of mind knowing you have a sound platform to tow up to the limits of rating of the hitch with no worries. The rust is not your fault either: you live where you live: it is what is is. They salt the roads where I live too, and I've never seen rust problems on components like this on vehicles under 15 years old.

 

That sucker is toast!

 

Well, she’s finally free!!



Unfortunately The last bolt of the support brackets didn’t make it. Everything was so seized up, and last bastard is the one that broke. So pissed. I’ll have to swing by 4wheelparts tomorrow and see what they can do. So close to being done, and need that hole for the new hitch.

 

If you can't get it turning with a channel lock on the exposed part of the bolt grinding the nut off and welding a new one on is probably the easiest route. I wouldn't want to try and drill that bolt out.

 

awkward spot, can I get away with a dremel?

 

I'd use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel but if you're going to have someone weld a new nut on and don't have the tools it might be best to leave it and have them cut it off.

 

If you have a 20 gal compressor, you could try an air hammer on the bolt (or just use it to take the nut off the frame).

Might be possible to replace the old nut there with a stainless rivnut, if you're not set up to weld a new one in its place

 

I'll sell you my socal frame with a minor repair if yours is rusty

 

Heat, penetrating lube, and this^^^ should work. If you haven't already gotten it out, since it is the 10th of January now.

 

Forgot to post update if anyone cares. I was able to drill it out starting with centering drill bit and slowly working up the bit size until the bolt was loose. Torched it and it came out.



Tapped the nut to clean out the threads and we are all set. I did the harness relocation mod while I was at it.

 

Bravo sir.

 

Now you can tow with confidence ...