1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Replacing inner tie rod?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by 96Taco, Nov 15, 2011.

  1. Nov 15, 2011 at 1:13 PM
    #1
    96Taco

    96Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2011
    Member:
    #48827
    Messages:
    767
    Gender:
    Male
    Alberta
    Vehicle:
    '04 V8 4Runner
    ..stay tuned
    I am wanting to replace my inner tie rod as the allignment shop said it needed to be done. I've researched a bunch and it looks pretty easy. Couple questions I had for someone who has done the job before:

    -Do you have to use the inner tie rod removal tool? If I can get away with not having to buy one that would be great. Just using a pipe wrench and wrenches? Can you get to it with just hand tools?

    -Do you have to remove lower ball joint from knuckle? Or can you just spin it off?

    Looking for some quick and dirty short cuts here. Its getting frickin cold here in canada and the less time I spend lying on my back in the snow the better.
     
  2. Nov 17, 2011 at 11:50 AM
    #2
    Tylerm5000

    Tylerm5000 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Member:
    #55840
    Messages:
    320
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    1995.5 2.7l reg cab 4x4 5-speed red pearl
    Alcan stock height 4-leaf springs, greaseable main eye bolts, OME greaseable shackles, all energy suspension bushings, 2-row extra deep radiator, KYB gas-a-just shocks. ALL LED exterior and interior lighting including custom tail lights and blinkers.
    You don't have to remove the outer tie rod. You can spin it off. Just make sure you jack the truck up and be patient because it takes forever when you are lying under there and are uncomfortable.

    I doubt you need the tool. There seems to be a strange lock washer and I never quite figured it out. I replaced my whole rack after finding out that it was leaking during the process of swapping the inner tie-rod.

    From what it looked like, just two wrenches will work just fine.
     
  3. Nov 18, 2011 at 8:15 AM
    #3
    96Taco

    96Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2011
    Member:
    #48827
    Messages:
    767
    Gender:
    Male
    Alberta
    Vehicle:
    '04 V8 4Runner
    ..stay tuned
    Ok thanks man. Will try it when the weather here in Calgary isn't so brutally cold.
     
  4. Nov 18, 2011 at 10:02 AM
    #4
    TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2011
    Member:
    #62240
    Messages:
    4,833
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Deltona, Florida
    Vehicle:
    '13 Tacoma TRD Sport DCLB 4x4
    stock.....for now...
    I am replacing my rack boots, and might do the inners. From what I see the lock washer has the "wings" that are bent up to prevent the tie rod end from loosening. All you have to do is flatten out the lock washer and loosen it up, and spin it off the outer.

    I will let you know if I run into anything.

    (and its 80 degrees here in FL :D...had to brag)
     
  5. Nov 19, 2011 at 3:53 PM
    #5
    96Taco

    96Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2011
    Member:
    #48827
    Messages:
    767
    Gender:
    Male
    Alberta
    Vehicle:
    '04 V8 4Runner
    ..stay tuned
    Thanks man. I'm a Ron Paul fan too and not even American!
     
  6. Nov 19, 2011 at 6:34 PM
    #6
    TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2011
    Member:
    #62240
    Messages:
    4,833
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Deltona, Florida
    Vehicle:
    '13 Tacoma TRD Sport DCLB 4x4
    stock.....for now...
    haha cool, come move to the US and vote for him...our country is in the pooper and we need him

    And I tried to get the inners off, and ran into the fact that I dont have a wrench big enough to take them off. Tried a strap wrench, and my buddy has my pipe wrenches.

    And does anyone know if these are reverse thread or what?
     
  7. Nov 20, 2011 at 4:40 AM
    #7
    RacerP

    RacerP Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2008
    Member:
    #9677
    Messages:
    434
    Gender:
    Male
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    2003 4x4
    7th Injector kit, Trans Cooler, Donohoe c/o's, Billy's in the rear, FJ Cruiser Trail Team SE wheels.
    I just did both my inner tie rods last week! Bought Moog's from RockAuto, with the discount code, they were like $44 shipped, as opposed to the big chains wanting $65+ tax and a day to get them from the wharehouse.

    Raised the truck, removed both wheels...makes it easier and actually minimal crawling under the truck. Need 2 big crescent wrenches, one to hold the the tie rod and the other to free the jam nut.

    Cut the metal clamp, the one closest to the rack, off the boot with a wire cutter. MAKE sure you don't screw up your boot if it is still usable! The other clamp on the outer tie rod side can just be hand squeezed and left to rest on the outer tie rod and reused later.

    Make sure you measure where your jam nut is on the thread, you'll need to adjust as close to that as possible when you reassemble. Once you have the jam nut free, spin it a little further back and then use your crescent wrench to undo the inner from the outer. You will have plenty of room as the back of the hub keeps moving out. Use the crescent wrench again on the rack side of the tie rod, just to free it, then I was able to spin the tie rod off by hand.

    I lubed the threads up on everything when I reassembled...as far as the lock washer on the rack side of the inner rod, I put it in there, there are to tabs to lock it into the rack...but I didn't bend them in at all like the original. As far as I could tell bending them really didn't do anything as I didn't have to flatten out the originals to get the inner to spin on the rack.

    Then re-thread the inner to the outer and get the jam nut as close as possible to where it was when you measured it. Use your old clamp on the outer rod side of the boot and I used a wire tie on the rack side of the boot. I actually used 2 wire ties together on the rack side because I didn't have a long enough wire tie...seems to holding just fine.

    I also did my rack bushing with Energy Suspension bushings at the same time...

    The tie rods were maybe a 45min job each side.

    Hope this helps
     
  8. Nov 21, 2011 at 12:35 PM
    #8
    96Taco

    96Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2011
    Member:
    #48827
    Messages:
    767
    Gender:
    Male
    Alberta
    Vehicle:
    '04 V8 4Runner
    ..stay tuned
    Thanks for that. 45 minutes isnt bad at all. I did rack bushings, mine were a pain in the ass. But gotter done. Always found Moog to make really good after market parts too.
     
  9. Nov 21, 2011 at 1:00 PM
    #9
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2011
    Member:
    #50183
    Messages:
    2,184
    Gender:
    Male
    Snow Hill NC
    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma Ext. 3.4L SR5
    inner tie rods are easily replaced. just need to screw them off each end, i replaced mine with moogs and have not regretted it at all. all the threads are right hand
     
  10. Oct 21, 2012 at 11:27 AM
    #10
    3RZ Taco

    3RZ Taco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2012
    Member:
    #85394
    Messages:
    613
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Austin
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    96 3RZ Stock
    K&N air filter, Toolbox, Window Deflectors, Bug Deflector, BFGoodrich A/T's
    Moog and Falcon are the same thing, falcon's just a fraction of the price. They are made the same way also :p
     
  11. Oct 21, 2012 at 12:28 PM
    #11
    Alderleet

    Alderleet Ace of Spades

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2011
    Member:
    #65324
    Messages:
    1,133
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Salty Hell
    Vehicle:
    '00 Acc Cab TRD 4x4
  12. Oct 21, 2012 at 1:32 PM
    #12
    3RZ Taco

    3RZ Taco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2012
    Member:
    #85394
    Messages:
    613
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Austin
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    96 3RZ Stock
    K&N air filter, Toolbox, Window Deflectors, Bug Deflector, BFGoodrich A/T's
    S'what i do ;)
     
  13. Oct 22, 2012 at 6:55 AM
    #13
    96Taco

    96Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2011
    Member:
    #48827
    Messages:
    767
    Gender:
    Male
    Alberta
    Vehicle:
    '04 V8 4Runner
    ..stay tuned
    lol forgot about this thread.. replacing the good old inner tie rod end.. didn't even fix the problem if i recall correctly :)
     
  14. Jun 1, 2014 at 9:38 PM
    #14
    TacomaTRD4x402

    TacomaTRD4x402 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2014
    Member:
    #126782
    Messages:
    233
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rene
    So Cal
    Vehicle:
    My username says it all
    Donahoe Racing extended travel coilovers w/ Camburg upper A-Arms, Deaver rear AAL w/ rear Bilstein 5100's. TRD Headers, K&N. Glassworks Unlimited 3" Front Flares...more to come
    Here's another thread resurrection!! HAHA

    Just in case anybody comes across this thread as I did...

    Low Range Offroad sells both the inner and outer tie rod assemblies for $30 each piece so it would be a $120 total job to replace both sides inners and outers. Not too bad IMO.

    Here's the link...
    http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/yotamain/1995-2004-toyota-tacoma-parts/steering.html

    And also they have an awesome video tutorial...
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVQHgcXEhpE&index=8&list=FL33dk1mg6gBsyWxTuXpdoig

    Only thing I would highly recommend is if it's an urgent repair, i'd call them before ordering to make sure they have the parts in stock. I had a slightly bad experience when it took 3 weeks for my order to ship since they didn't have the part in stock. But i was patient enough with them, my repair was not urgent.
     
To Top