Replacing JBL Factory amp

Ok, how do I adjust the DSP settings on the kenwood? Is it similar to just the EQ on the head unit

 

I just did mine. I first did all the sound deadening, Floor, all four doors and the back wall. First layer was Noico 80 Mil from Amazon -

Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

Amazon.com: Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening : Automotive followed that with Noico Red 150 Mil from ebay - Noico Red 150 Mil 36 Sqft Сar Sound Insulation for sale online | eBay

I then replaced all the speakers, Front doors Infinity Kappa 90 CSX 6X9 from ebay - Infinity KAPPA 90csx 6x9 Inch 2-way Car Audio Component Speaker System (PAIR) 50667371791 | eBay Rear doors JBL GX628 speakers from ebay - JBL GX628 GX Series 6.5" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers 50036356978 | eBay Dash speakers JBL GX328 from Amazon -

$70 JBL GX328 3-1/2" Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers

JBL GX328 3-1/2" Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers : Electronics (amazon.com) and SubWoofer Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 from CrutchField - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 Punch Stage 3 shallow 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield

Used the stock Sub enclosure and JBL Amp.

And all the mounting adapters and wiring adapters I needed.

It took me three days to do it all taking my time but in the end it was well worth it. Now the truck is quite on the road and the sound is great from the stock JBL head unit.

 

What kind of adapters did you use? And what was each one for?

 

Can you give me a list of the harness I should get for the AR, and Kenwood amp? I’ve decided to go with it and replace the speakers too. I figured if I do some might as well do the whole thing

 

Sounds like you did exactly what I did, except your HU is a 21. How do you like the sound? Do any of the doors vibrate at full volume?

See the spoiler button in my post here for adapters/connectors: JBL Speaker Upgrade

 

Thank you!!

 

No Vibration what so ever cranked up. I so glad I found your post and did it the same way. Love cranking up the volume on Classic Rewind on XM radio and cruising along...

 

Nice! I'm even thinking about using those components in the sail panel, but piggybacking off of the dash speakers with the crossover between to get a little more highs. Like @5nahalf did.

Edit: now with all this talk of the Amp heating up, I'd like to install a 12v fan or something to cool it off.

 

See @5nahalf 's sail panel tweeters over here:

 

I like that idea. Let me know how you make out doing that.

I was thinking on hooking up the crossovers off the input going to the 6X9's and then feed the 6X9 and the tweeters.

 

You will need the AT03 harness from idatalink to hook up the Maestro AR and the amp to the stock harness/plugs where the Taco oem amp is plugged in.
https://www.idatalinkmaestro.com/en/accessory/815/HRN-AR-TO3

To power the amp you will need an amp installation kit. There isn't enough power at the oem location to tap into so you will need to run a power cable from the battery to the amp.

 

Negative Ghostrider. The 6X9's only have bass frequency, so the crossover wouldn't receive tweeter frequency to use. That's why you'll need to pull from the dash tweeter/midrange frequency:

JBL Overview:

 

OK so tap off dash speakers mount crossovers under dash and just run wires for the additional tweeters. I did notice the crossover has a switch on it to select 2-way or 3 way speakers.

I take it you set it for 2-way speakers.

 

I haven't done that part yet, but yeah, just my thoughts?

These have the 3-way option so you can upgrade a mid, but the taco JBL already has the mid in the rear doors. One Crutchfield review recommended piggybacking directly from the dash mid/tweeter, but a true tweeter high-range frequency can be achieved in the 3-way mode, otherwise, it shares the mid with the woofer in 2-way. From what I understand, the 0db to +3db setting is used for distance to ear. Set it at 0db for no change, or set it at +3db for increased decibels at the tweeter, and you can always dial it back in the HU.

 

So let me ask this, you would take a branch off the dash speakers to the crossover, leaving the dash speakers as they are today. Then the JBL tweeters would be feed from the crossover.

Would you then feed the door speakers from the crossover versus using the factory feed from the HU?

As shown in this diagram.



Or would you just use the crossover for the JBL tweeters themselves and leave the factory wiring on the front door speakers?

Also don't know if you tried to get the cover off the crossover. I spent almost an hour last night trying to get the cover off until I gave up. Did a little googling this morning and came across this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOBT9S4DqV0

A 41 second video solved my issue...

 

Ya, I briefly saw that video, but thanks for the reminder. Note, I don't claim to be an audiophile, and this is all in theory, and I haven't tried this yet. Maybe @TacoManOne can back me up, but the two options I see for adding those component tweeters to the sailpanels in the door are:

Daisy chain direct from the dash speaker to the component tweeter (without crossover as suggested by crutchfield)

Run speaker wire from the dash speaker to the crossover in 3-way mode, and then to the tweeter (TW) for high frequencies.

Always mind your positive and negative wires.

Note, keep the door woofers as is because they already have a dedicated bass supply from the amp. Pulling from the dash to the crossover, and then to the door woofers will starve the speaker of power and not to mention bass since the dash only receives mid and high frequencies (see the JBL diagram I posted earlier).

 

Those appear to be the two easy ways, the other would be entirely new wiring from the amp. I would be inclined to run speaker wire from dash to crossover since you have a component set. That way the components are balanced frequency wise the way the designer wanted. Otherwise you might get a weird crossover point that Toyota put it. You could always experiment.

 

Sorry I haven’t been active, busy with work. Is there a kit you recommend? Also do you have a pic of the ar and amp wired up so I can see how the wires are. Just ordered them.

 

Been really busy too. As far as amp kit really no recommendations. Crutchfield has good kits and their website will help with recommendations. I dont have a picture of everything wired up. It's kinda hard to show since I mounted everything on an amp rack which hides all the wires. Check out the wiring diagram from idatalink that I posted previously and it will give you an idea of how everything gets wired.

 

I ordered that AR and Kenwood got the AT03 harness but is there a kit that you decrement to connect to it? Did you order it and what was the link? I’m not sure what to get