Replacing my own air conditioning compressor, and now the rest of the system...help?

I got it working properly and bench tested all settings and I am good to go! Thanks for all your help! Re-assembling (again!)

 

Good Job! Now when the dust settles come back and post what you found so others can learn.

P.S. Questions about A/C problems will increase as spring nears and the Tacoma continues to age with its POS GM Delphi A/C compressor that likes to grenade.

I'm think about posting some info about inexpensive in-line filters and micro-screens that will reduce the chances of complete system contamination once the compressor grenades. I did them on mine because I will die before I go into that retarded HVAC box ever again. Someone remind me if I forget.

 

The trick to getting the mode control set up right is to dissasemble to apoint where you can remove the servo motor and the cam that all the pins ride in.

Keep the power supply to the entire HVAC unit and turn the air speed to level 3 or 4. At this point begin to play with each of the three cams to see what direction they operate. Once you understand how each one operates pick a setting at the end of the servo motor travel (also end of cam travel in all 3 slots). This would either be the pure defrost setting or the blowing in your face setting. I used the blowing in your face setting so I made sure the defroster and the foot baffles were completely closed and then slid the cam over the 3 pins, installed the 3 screws, turned the mode selector dial to the correct location and slid the servo motor back on, installed the 3 screws and viola!

Aside - also keep in mind there is a TSB for the foam coming unglued and restricting baffle travel or air flow. In this case you will need to remove the entire dash to gain access to the bafffels.

 

So I had to take my AC compressor out to pull my steering rack. Now what needs to be done with the compressor? I understand it needs to be recharged and all, but am I able to drive the truck until then? Can I just pull a fuse or something?

 

You will need to replace the expansion vale and dryer before recharging the AC. On my OEM condesor, the dryer was built in and nonservicable if I recall correctly. I ended up having to replace the whole condesor/dryer unit. The new aftermarket condensor has a replacable dryer in it.

But as far as your question, yes, you can pull the AC fuse in the mean time and drive the truck without any issues until the above are complete. Obviously, your AC will be inoperable, as well as the lack of dry air for defrost.

I sourced all the necessary parts from Rockauto and have had zero issues since replacing a couple years ago.

 

You can buy a vacuum pump online for under 100 dollars and a manifold gauge and you will always be able to add compressor oil and freon to your truck with no worries.

 

I am not enthusiastic about removing the evaporator. If removing the lines and checking that there are no metal bits at the evaporator it would be a go for me. Metals bits, windows down. I am in awe of those who would remove the dash. I had a price of 1600 to replace the ac compressor and condenser.

 

You don’t live in the desert apparently! No AC out here is like no heat in Svalbard. It hits 40C regularly in the summer.

 

I BELIEVE that there is a typo in the manual on page AC-74, which is leading to all the confusion in this thread. The passage on capacity should read;

"Oil capacity inside a new compressor and magnetic clutch: 150 ± 15 cc (5.1 ± 0.51 fl oz) [variation of 10%]."​

Put another way; the compressor should be filled with between 4.59 and 5.61 fluid ounces of PAG 60.

I tried to rotate the compressor for four revolutions ( to "balance" the compressor) BEFORE I INSTALLED IT. The PAG oil from the factory that was in the compressor along with the shipping cap exploded all over my garage. Learn from my mistake and balance the compressor AFTER it is mounted on the engine, and after you have connected the refrigerant lines.

Afterwards I realized that "Balancing" the compressor is required to ensure that the oil is not hydrolocking any of the chambers inside the pump. Like all liquids, PAG oil does NOT compress. Balancing ensures that there is some gas (air, refrigerant) in the chamber along with the oil.

Regarding the unobtainable PAG 60, I plan to mix 4 ounces of PAG 46 with 2 ounces of PAG 100, add ¼ ounce of dye, and not use all of it.