Replacing U-Joints: Write Up

L J · Apr 28, 2016

Here's the spicer greasable part#.

oldracer · Apr 28, 2016

I suppose you don't do many u-joint replacements; Spicer is a very trusted supplier of drive-line components to major auto manufactures.

They have been making drive-line parts for decades.

IPNPULZ · Apr 28, 2016

Sub'd

tan-ishman · May 27, 2016

squeek squeek.... click clunk.... time for some new u-joints! awesome write up! Will use when parts come in!

Rakso · Mar 6, 2017

jangel2[OP] initial post: ↑

Hi all, been a lurker a long time and figured I'd try my hand at a write up since I replaced two u-joints on my Tacoma today. I searched on here and the web to find out why my truck was squeaking while I was in reverse backing out of my driveway, and I found out it to be a worn U-joint.

IMPORTANT: Use white out if at all possible, and/or chalk or a marker, but try hard to get white out since its the easiest to see and won't disappear in the wd-40. Use this to mark a line down your driveshaft. You want this thing going back in in the same orientation it came out. I had a marker and I could barely make out the mark I made with a marker at the end.

To start here's the project truck:
2005 Desert Sand Tacoma DCSB

And the work areas:

Tools I used to replace my U-Joints:

O'Reilly Ball/U-Joint Press

To start we need to remove the bolts from the rear differential:

Then the center carrier bearing support:

Then pull the drive shaft out of the transmission and set it on the side:

Next we need to remove the snap rings with some needle nose pliers, I flat head screwdriver comes in handy here so you can slip it under the snap ring to help wedge it out:

Now using your U-joint press, we need to press out the old U-joints:

Once you punch the opposite cap out far enough, its easier to remove the cap with a pair of pliers, just twist and pull outwards:

Then press in reverse now to punch the opposite cap out:

I started with the front U-Joint, so now I will remove the other two caps:

And now we have a removed U-Joint:

Now the rear U-Joint:

AH-HA here is the culprit to the squeaking, rusted out needle bearings:

This is when I noticed after removing the rear bracket that this drivetrain is not stock, Spicer:

So then I went ahead and packed them with some good lithium grease for extra wear protection, these two joints have zerks for future greasing, but just want to get some good grease in there for the time being:

Now before reinserting the new U-Joints clean out your snap ring grooves and knock out any spurs of metal that could impede inserting the caps:

So now begin reinserting the U-joints and caps, make sure your U-Joints are inbetween your two bracket ends before you press in your caps:

After you get your caps pressed just past the snap ring grooves, its a good idea to go ahead and insert your snap rings:

So lets finish this one up with the press here:

Good to go on this one:

Now the last one:

And here we go back under the truck:

To put the driveshaft back in we want to start by making sure to insert the front back into the transmission first:

Go ahead and leave the screws for the carrier loose so we have some wiggle room for bolting up to the rear diff:

Then once you have everything bolted together, you can tighten it all up and go out and make sure your good to go.

Now after redoing these U-Joints, as I've shown you in previous pictures, almost all the smaller components minus the drive shaft have been replaced with spicer parts. Had a feeling once I got this truck it wear faster than others, when i saw the trailer brake controller in the driver footwell.
Click to expand...

Why isn't this a sticky yet? Great info. Just what I was looking for.

outlawtacoma · Mar 6, 2017

Sub'd

slwburn · Mar 6, 2017

Any one replacing don't by that expensive front front shaft u joint at some expensive price. I just replaced mine up front and it was the exact as the rear. Only a lot cheaper

outlawtacoma · Mar 6, 2017

slwburn said: ↑

Any one replacing don't by that expensive front front shaft u joint at some expensive price. I just replaced mine up front and it was the exact as the rear. Only a lot cheaper
Click to expand...

Pics / part numbers?

slwburn · Mar 6, 2017

outlawtacoma said: ↑

Pics / part numbers?
Click to expand...

I used Napa brand NPJ 354

JimboAnz · Mar 6, 2017

TOE

backcountryj · Mar 6, 2017

Subbed...nice write up

Rakso · Mar 9, 2017

jangel2[OP] initial post: ↑

Hi all, been a lurker a long time and figured I'd try my hand at a write up since I replaced two u-joints on my Tacoma today. I searched on here and the web to find out why my truck was squeaking while I was in reverse backing out of my driveway, and I found out it to be a worn U-joint.

IMPORTANT: Use white out if at all possible, and/or chalk or a marker, but try hard to get white out since its the easiest to see and won't disappear in the wd-40. Use this to mark a line down your driveshaft. You want this thing going back in in the same orientation it came out. I had a marker and I could barely make out the mark I made with a marker at the end.

To start here's the project truck:
2005 Desert Sand Tacoma DCSB

And the work areas:

Tools I used to replace my U-Joints:

O'Reilly Ball/U-Joint Press

To start we need to remove the bolts from the rear differential:

Then the center carrier bearing support:

Then pull the drive shaft out of the transmission and set it on the side:

Next we need to remove the snap rings with some needle nose pliers, I flat head screwdriver comes in handy here so you can slip it under the snap ring to help wedge it out:

Now using your U-joint press, we need to press out the old U-joints:

Once you punch the opposite cap out far enough, its easier to remove the cap with a pair of pliers, just twist and pull outwards:

Then press in reverse now to punch the opposite cap out:

I started with the front U-Joint, so now I will remove the other two caps:

And now we have a removed U-Joint:

Now the rear U-Joint:

AH-HA here is the culprit to the squeaking, rusted out needle bearings:

This is when I noticed after removing the rear bracket that this drivetrain is not stock, Spicer:

So then I went ahead and packed them with some good lithium grease for extra wear protection, these two joints have zerks for future greasing, but just want to get some good grease in there for the time being:

Now before reinserting the new U-Joints clean out your snap ring grooves and knock out any spurs of metal that could impede inserting the caps:

So now begin reinserting the U-joints and caps, make sure your U-Joints are inbetween your two bracket ends before you press in your caps:

After you get your caps pressed just past the snap ring grooves, its a good idea to go ahead and insert your snap rings:

So lets finish this one up with the press here:

Good to go on this one:

Now the last one:

And here we go back under the truck:

To put the driveshaft back in we want to start by making sure to insert the front back into the transmission first:

Go ahead and leave the screws for the carrier loose so we have some wiggle room for bolting up to the rear diff:

Then once you have everything bolted together, you can tighten it all up and go out and make sure your good to go.

Now after redoing these U-Joints, as I've shown you in previous pictures, almost all the smaller components minus the drive shaft have been replaced with spicer parts. Had a feeling once I got this truck it wear faster than others, when i saw the trailer brake controller in the driver footwell.
Click to expand...

Stock drivetrain comes with spicer components from factory. I replaced the u joint today and all of them were spicer, also the yokes.

SliMbo4.0 · Mar 9, 2017

sub'd for later. nice write up

Lord Helmet · May 16, 2017

Good ideas on the marking and write up OP

gearcruncher · May 17, 2017

Considering this is a good write up , I will add the lubrication specs from Spicer . They need to be greased at regular intervals
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3299-2-DSSP.PDF

2 wheel drive
Propeller Shaft System: Problem Symptoms Table
Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Regular Cab 2WD): Components, Removal
Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Regular Cab 2WD): Disassembly, Inspection, Reassembly, Installation
Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 2WD And Double Cab 2WD): Components, Removal
Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 2WD And Double Cab 2WD): Disassembly, Inspection, Reassembly
Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 2WD And Double Cab 2WD): Installation

4 wheel drive

Driveshafts used with your 4x4 truck
Front Propeller Shaft Assembly (For 4WD): Components, Removal
Front Propeller Shaft Assembly (For 4WD): Disassembly, Inspection, Reassembly
Front Propeller Shaft Assembly (For 4WD): Installation
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Regular Cab 4WD): Components, Removal
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Regular Cab 4WD): Disassembly, Inspection, Reassembly
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Regular Cab 4WD): Installation
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 4WD And Double Cab 4WD): Components, Removal
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 4WD And Double Cab 4WD): Disassembly, Inspection
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 4WD And Double Cab 4WD): Reassembly
Rear Propeller Shaft Assembly (For Access Cab 4WD And Double Cab 4WD): Installation
Front Drive Shaft (For 4WD): Components
Front Drive Shaft (For 4WD): Removal, Disassembly, Reassembly
Front Drive Shaft (For 4WD): Installation

With a 4 wheel drive truck , the only difference between 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive is a slip yoke on the rear of the driveshaft that also needs attention .
The splines on the slip yoke are a common area for lack of " proper lube " and also wear .
Use glide coat on the splines , then let the coating dry . https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-GlideCote-formerly-TopCote-10-75/dp/B008F87IYK

Once the glide coating is dry , apply synthetic grease to the splines .
http://paceperformance.com/i-782162...bricant-high-temperature-c1-2-w-a-t-1-lb.html

And a cheaper yet still effective version of slip yoke lubricant here
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/ptfe...-ford-motorcraft-xg-8-ml1167-31508-42027.html
I understand this is a Ford product , however Ford uses the same manufacturer for their drive-lines ( Spicer ) .

Frequently asked questions from the manufacturer of aftermarket universal joints
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Federal_Mogul_Driveline_FAQ.pdf

Spicer parts
http://media.spicerparts.com/media

DougSD · May 16, 2017

Your wifes (kids, girlfriends)nail polish will work too and not usually come off or a paint pen marker.

Was there a reason you didn't get them with zerk fittings or are they not available?

I always used my bench vice and sockets slightly larger to press out the caps but the tool works too! nice write up!

thanks!

topcathr · May 16, 2017

I took mine to the auto machine shop and had them pressed in for 30.00. I used to do them with a vise like jimmy but I am getting too old......lol

kenneth.morris07 · Jun 8, 2017

Subbed for tomorrow. Anyone have an idea of how long it takes to replace all 3 and be back up and running?

Krusey1011 · Jul 26, 2017

Any reason my driveline shouldn't be pulling out of the transmission?

BassAckwards · Jul 26, 2017

Krusey1011 said: ↑

Any reason my driveline shouldn't be pulling out of the transmission?
Click to expand...

If you started by removing where the driveshaft bolts up to the rear diff, then removed the bolts that hold the carrier bearing in the center, i dont see any reason why it shouldnt slide right out. I did the u joints on my 09 a week or so ago and didnt have any trouble getting it out

Edit: it did seem stuck at first but i started to shimmy it a little and that did the trick for mine..

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